Story & Photos by Cheri Sicard
Covered In This Article:
Spend The Night In A Haunted Castle
 The
night was black as coal. The wind howled, whipping around the corners
and crevices of the old stone castle walls. The windows rattled so loudly,
it seemed as if they would fly off their hinges at any second. Surely
the ghosts would soon come out to play.
It may sound like the beginning of a cheesy gothic horror novel, but
it was a real experience I had at Carbisdale Castle, in the highlands
of Scotland. That's not all, the ghosts really did come out to play!
 Scotland
has a lot to offer fans of the eerie, the macabre or the unexplained and
Carbisdale Castle is an excellent place to start. Built in the early 1900's,
by "Scotland Castle" standards it's not that old. But it "feels" as though
it is.
Carbisdale Castle is so massive, it seems as though it would be easy
to get lost, or at least disoriented, while roaming its many corridors.
Wandering through empty castle halls, in itself, is a spooky proposition,
but Carbisdale Castle is even more eerie because of the numerous ghost
stories that have made the castle legend.
 There
is a "woman in white" who said to be found pacing the various halls of
the structure. She is most often seen on the main staircase. A hallway
on the top floor is known for cold spots and the general "uneasy" feeling
it gives (some employees refuse to go there alone). But most famous is
the "spook room" as it is affectionately known by the staff, a former
nursery said to be haunted by the long departed nanny and children of
the castle.
Always being up for the unique experience, I requested to stay in this
room.
 Before
I continue, I should mention that Carbisdale Castle is not an ordinary
hotel, but rather a youth hostel. Sleeping quarters are segregated into
male and female dorm style rooms. The "spook room" happened to be in the
men's wing, but since I was a writer working on a story, they kindly allowed
me to stay anyway (one of the few times in my life when I DID NOT want
to be alone at night, but anything for a story).
I chose an upper level bunk close to the windows and attempted to go
to sleep, knowing full well this would be impossible. I am an insomniac
under the best of circumstances and hearing the ghost stories all day
had me psyched into an anxious state.
 Sleep
didn't come, and neither did any ghosts (at least not yet). At one point
I had to go to the bathroom, which was down the hall. Every childhood
fear of the "boogie man" came back as I went down that cold dark, shadowy
hall and I quickly did what I had to do and sprinted back to the room
and got under the covers.
About 4AM, the wind started picking up in a big way. It howled and wailed
outside the walls, making the windows rattle and cold drafts stir. I lay
awake listening to this cacophonous symphony when I suddenly realized
that underneath the sounds of the wind were the quite clear sound of children's
voices! I now know what the expression "having a chill run down your spine"
means, for this is exactly what I felt at that moment. Encounters with
ghosts were something that happened to other people, but not to me, and
as interested as I was in the castle's history, I really didn't expect
to see or hear anything.
For a few seconds, I felt paralyzed, unable to move. I had a conversation
with myself to make sure I wasn't imagining it, even going so far as to
pinch myself and make sure I wasn't dreaming. I wasn't. The whole episode
only lasted a few minutes, at which time the sun started rising and my
night in the haunted room was over. Needless to say, everyone at breakfast
wanted to hear all about it.
Carbisdale Castle is in the northern highlands. There isn't all that
much around the area, although it is picturesque. There is a train station
in walking distance of the castle, so it isn't necessary to have a car
to get to Carbisdale Castle. Even if you're not interested in ghosts,
the priceless art collection in the castle makes the trip worthwhile.
Ghosts or no ghosts, the blank stares of white marble statues following
you down the halls or the forlorn look of the woman in the huge painting
over the main staircase, make Carbisdale a decidedly spooky place.
 The
youth hostel at Loch Lomond is also a castle (although not nearly
as impressive as Carbisdale) and also reportedly haunted. The surrounding
area is gorgeous, with lots of great hiking trails and, of course, the
famous loch itself. For more information or reservations contact the Scottish
Youth Hostel Association at their website at www.syha.org.uk.
Loch Ness
 When
many people think of Scotland, Loch Ness is what they think of.
Ever since 565AD, rumors have persisted that a sea serpent-like monster
has made the twenty three mile long loch's (lake) waters its home. The
first modern sighting dates back to 1933, an event which set of a frenzy
of "monster hunters".
Despite years of scientific research, it has never been proved that "Nessie"
as she is affectionately called, exists. That small fact in no way detracts
from Loch Ness's appeal as a tourist destination, however. A stop at the
Official Loch Ness Exhibition Center will tell you everything you've
ever wanted to know about the Loch Ness monster (with the exception of
conclusive proof that it's real). Nonetheless, the exhibit is interesting
in a "cheesy, touristy" kind of way. It's also a wonderful place to pick
up some of the coolest souvenirs anywhere -- also cheesy, but that's kinda
the point.. There's everything from Nessie water globes, to baby bibs,
to golf towels, not to mention the perennial tourist favorite, T-shirts.
Even more interesting than the exhibit was Castle Urquhart. Perched
on the edge of Loch Ness, the picturesque castle ruins are the site of
the first "Nessie" sighting way back in the 6th century. Walking around
the ruins of such an ancient dwelling gives one an eerie feeling. The
ruins evoked more of a feeling of "this was where history was made" than
some of the slicker, restored castles that tend to have more of an "amusement
park" feel. The castle grounds also give you a superb view of Loch Ness.
I scanned the waters for a long time, but saw no site of the monster,
but who knows, you might have better luck.
Edinburgh's Ghosts
 Edinburgh
is undoubtedly one of the most haunted cities on earth. In the Royal
Mile alone (the street that runs between Edinburgh Castle and the
Palace At Holyrood) there are hundreds if not thousands of ghost stories.
Start your journey at the Mercat Cross, across the street from
the Edinburgh City Council building. In olden days, the cross was the
site of countless public executions and torturings-- there were no TV's
then but the Jerry Springer mentality still ruled. All directions from
the Mercat Cross, lead to encounters with ghost stories. Just start asking
the people that work in the buildings in the Royal Mile (especially the
pubs) and you are sure to be rewarded. There are also countless books
about Edinburgh's haunted history that can be found throughout the city.
The best of these, if you can still find them, are by noted author and
paranormal researcher Charles Cameron.
A good way to get an overview of Edinburgh's ghostly past is to take
one of the inexpensive (about 5£) ghost tours. If you can get past
some of the obvious gimmickry meant to titillate the tourists -- such
as the "genuine pagan witches temple" offered by one company -- you'll
have a great time, learn a lot of history and maybe experience something
"otherworldly". Mercat Tours (0131-661-4541) has several ghost
tour options as does Auld Reekie Tours (0131-557-4700).
 The
Mercat tour I took met at 11PM at the Mercat Cross and included the ghostly
history of the Royal Mile as well as a trip to the "underground city".
Much of the Edinburgh of early times still exists, under what are the
present city streets. The cold, damp dirt and stone lined corridors of
the underground city are spooky indeed. For some inexplicable reason,
my camera refused to work in one certain hallway, regardless of the settings
I used. It worked fine in other areas, but simply refused to take a photo
in this one particular area. Frances, my charming and very enthusiastic
tour guide said this particular spot was a known "haunt" of one of the
underground city's least hospitable ghosts. While most of the spirits
seem rather benign, this one seems to have an attitude, and he especially
doesn't like women. The tour ends in the back room of the White Horse
Pub. Dating back to 1742, it's one of the city's oldest, and the back
room has graffiti dated 1768!
While in Edinburgh, a visit into Mary King's Close, is a fascinating
experience that should not be missed. A "close" in Scottish parlance refers
to the narrow space between buildings, otherwise known as an alley in
the US. This area is not open to the general public and must be experienced
as part of a guided tour. The Continuum Group is sole provider of tours
to the Close, 7 days a week from 10am to 9pm during the summer and 10am
til 4pm during the winter. Tours are lead by costumed guides who tell
the true story about those who lived in the close from the 1600s to present
day.
Mary King's Close was one of Edinburgh's most notorious districts and
it is so known for ghostly activity that the city has been known to "rent"
the space in order to raise money for charitable causes, to those wishing
to spend the night in one of the world's most haunted spots. Back in the
time of the black plague, Mary King's Close was a crowded, squalid neighborhood,
teeming with disgusting smells and disease. At the time, the plague was
thought to be a "warning from god" to repent evil ways. Thousands were
killed for being "witches", and this included not only people, but also
their "evil" pets. Cats and dogs by the thousands were burned along with
their masters and mistresses. Not the smartest thing the authorities could
have done, but hindsight is twenty twenty. With the cat and dog populations
depleted, there were no predators left to kill the rats, which actually
carried and spread the plague. The powers that be, knowing no other way
to contain the dreaded disease, simply closed off the close, quarantining
it and its residents until every one of them had died.
 The
tour takes visitors through the close, past doorways to shops and houses,
long since abandoned. Needless to say, the area is allegedly crawling
with ghostly activity. This is hardly a new phenomenon. Back in 1685,
a professor at Glasgow University published a book called "Satan's Invisible
World" which tells of accounts of ghostly apparitions in the close, and
the stories have never stopped. While I didn't actually experience anything
supernatural in Mary King's Close, the tour is an eerie and fascinating
experience. It's not difficult to imagine the terror and hopelessness
those early Edinburgh residents must have experienced.
Greyfriar's Kirk Cemetery
In downtown Edinburgh, directly off a busy street lies Greyfriar's Kirk
(church) and its surrounding cemetery. Those interested in old gravestones
and cemeteries will have a field day strolling through the gorgeous grounds
and examining some of the more unusual markers and epitaphs (see photo
at left for an example).
Be cautious while wandering, however. Greyfriar's Kirk Cemetery is home
of a notorious ghost who likes to shove visitors, even knocking some to
the ground!
Devilishly Delicious Dining
 Edinburgh
has several dining option open to fans of the macabre, from the casual
to fine dining.
The Witchery Restaurant is, without a doubt, one of Edinburgh's
finest restaurants. Nowhere else in all of Scotland did I find such delicious
and creative cuisine. Aside from great food, they have one of the most
extensive wine lists I've ever seen anywhere. But outstanding food is
only the beginning. The restaurant, which is located very close to Edinburgh
Castle, is themed around the city's famous witches. In fact, nearby, just
outside the castle walls at the top of Castle Hiil, you'll find the "Witches'
Fountain, a small memorial at the site where so many were burned at the
stake. The restaurant's decor, reminiscent of dining in an enchanted grotto,
is as elegant as their food. They also have a luxurious lodging for rent
that is sure to beat any hotel, and the location is the greatest in all
of Edinburgh. Be advised, The Witchery is pricey, but if you want a very
special evening out, this is the place.
 On
a more casual note, Edinburgh is home of four "Eerie Pubs": Jekyll
& Hyde's, Maggie Dickson's, Sneeky Pete's and The Old Fire Station.
Each has it's own unique story and macabre decor. Pick up an "eerie Pub
Crawl" card at the first one you visit. Collect stamps for ten drinks
between the four pubs and you'll get a really cool "I Survived The Eerie
Pubs" T-shirt.
The theme of Jekyll & Hyde's is easy to figure out, and former Edinburgh
resident Robert Louis Stevenson would undoubtedly be pleased with the
treatment his famous fictional characters receive here. Maggie Dickson
was an Edinburgh legend who found herself unmarried and pregnant. She
had the further bad luck for the child to have died a few days after birth.
She was hanged for murder, but survived! The pub currently bearing her
name helps to keep this legend alive. Sneeky Pete was an infamous Edinburgh
body snatcher. His story can be followed at the eerie pub bearing his
name. The Old Fire Station pub pays homage to the devastating and ghastly
fires that have ravaged the city over the centuries.
 The
eerie pubs are a fun place to hang out, have a drink and eat some reasonably
priced casual food. The decor is pure Halloween, year round, the staff
friendly, and the food hearty and good. Try to stop in at least one of
them while visiting Edinburgh, although I predict that once you go to
one, you'll want to visit them all.
Be Sure to Also Read:
A Thrifty Tour of Scotland
 Fabulous
Travel Recommends
Fodor's
Exploring Scotland Guide
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