Her seafaring days are now a thing of the past, but history lives on at the fabulous Queen Mary, now permanently docked in Long Beach, California. A popular spot for visitors to tour, the best way to get a true feel for this very special place is as an overnight guest, for the former "Queen of the Atlantic" has found new life as a luxury hotel.

A Wonderful Hotel

A stay at the Hotel Queen Mary is a great way to get the most out of a Southern California vacation. It would be hard to find another hotel that is so much a tourist attraction, in and of itself.

An almost tangible aura of history permeates the air. While lying in bed at night, I couldn't help thinking who might have slept there in years gone past. Clark Gable? The Duke and Duchess of Windsor? Marlene Dietrich? Fred Astaire? Winston Churchill? Any of these plus scores of other luminaries might be the answer. If only the walls could talk. I delighted in roaming the halls and just soaking up the history, imagining what it must have been like to actually sail across the ocean in this massive vessel.

The ship (and likewise the rooms) still maintain the art deco splendor of yesteryear. Rich wood paneling covers the walls. Portholes look out onto expansive views of the Long Beach Harbor. Bathrooms still have their original fixtures (hot and cold fresh and salt water, although today only fresh water will come out).

The suites on board are exquisite, some having a sitting room, two bathrooms and two bedrooms (the smaller of these was originally intended for the servants of passengers who traveled with their own maid or butler). Of course, unlike bygone days, the rooms are now equipped with modern amenities such as cable television and telephones.

Ghosts & History

The size of the vessel is overwhelming. The hallway outside my room seemed to stretch on forever. I had the eerie feeling I was in a hall of mirrors.

Eerie feelings are not uncommon to visitors of the Queen Mary, as the ship is reportedly haunted by several ghosts (although I personally didn't experience any supernatural phenomena). Nonetheless, it isn't difficult to believe, considering all the history the ship has seen. Guests have reported other worldly visitors in a couple of the rooms. The ballroom has a lovely, albeit transparent, lady who regularly makes appearances. The pool room (no longer used for its original purpose) sports some mysetrious ghost "footprints" that refuse to go away. The sound of children's laughter has also been heard here, when no one was present to make the sounds. The ship's most famous and persistent ghost has been seen around the area of "Door 13" (see photo) in the lower regions. It was here that, decades ago, a worker was crushed to death in an incident involving the heavy doors.

A good way to really explore the ship, as well as learn about the ghost stories, is to go on a historic tour, offered periodically throughout the day. Even if you are not a hotel guest, it is well worthwhile to pay a visit and take in the tour.

Guide Fred Buser, a retired navy man, shared a wealth of knowledge about the ship. His enthusiasm and love for her was apparent and contagious. She has an interesting and colorful history, both as a luxury passenger ship and as a wartime carrier for troops -- she carried 16,200 people at once during a wartime crossing when she was known as "The Grey Ghost."

Wining & Dining

History aside, the hotel offers some great drinking, dining and dancing options. Every Tuesday afternoon from noon till 2 PM there is big band tea dancing in what was formally the first class salon. Sundays offer an extensive Champagne Brunch with 11 culinary stations including a Carving and Entree station offering a selection of specially prepared meats; an Oriental Station featuring such far east favorites as Crispy duck with Lemon Grass Soy Sauce and Stir Fried Shrimp; A Pasta Station with a selection of gourmet pastas and sauces; and a South-Of-The-Border Station featuring authentic Mexican specialties. Additional selections include breakfast favorites, a salad bar, fresh seafood, gourmet deli meats and cheeses, fresh baked goods, a dessert table and a separate buffet of children's favorites.

The Observation Bar, an art deco showcase, is the perfect spot for a nightcap. Live entertainment is offered, but I personally found gazing at the gorgeous surroundings more entertaining than the music of the lounge singer. The Promenade Cafe is available for casual dining, (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and offers everything from quick snacks to full meals. The Chelsea is a casual bistro specializing in fresh seafood.

The crown jewel of the Queen Mary's restaurants, however, is Sir Winston's. Elegant settings and a spectacular view add to the experience of outstanding food. Situated at the rear of the ship, this is a wonderful place to enjoy the sunset while sampling some of Southern California's most outstanding cuisine. Sir Winston's was recently honored by the Southern California Restaurant Writers with a prestigious Gold Award.

Specialties include seafood, pasta, plus a selection of game and beef. A couple of our favorites were the wild mushroom crepe and the warm goat cheese in a crisp potato basket for appetizers. The Santa Barbara Prawns are a good dinner choice for those who like something somewhat sweet and the grilled salmon was excellent.

While the food at Sir Winston's was great, the desserts were outstanding, particularly the soufflés -- Grand Mariner was my favorite, although the chcolate Kahlua was hardly shabby. Chocolate covered strawberries and truffles finished the evening.

Between great lodging, wonderful dining, the floating gallery of art deco masterpieces and incredible history, the Queen Mary still has a lot to offer, even though she no longer sails the seas. When visiting Southern California be sure to make this a stop on your agenda. It's difficult to put into words just how special it truly is. It is a feeling that simply needs to be experienced.

Going to The Queen Mary

The Queen Mary is located at 1126 Queens Highway in Long Beach, CA. Attraction hours are 10AM to 6PM daily. There is a free Runabout Shuttle at many locations in downtown Long Beach. Visit the Queen Mary website at www.queenmary.com.

For hotel reservations call 800-437-2934 or 310-432-6964. For general or group information call 310-435-6964.

Restaurants and bars:

Observation Bar is opened nightly with complimentary Hors d'Oeuvres served Sunday - Friday, 5:00 PM - 7:00 PM.

Sunday Brunch is from 10:30 AM - 2:30 PM. Reservations are required, call 310-499-1606. Casual dress is accepted, however, no jeans, shorts or sandals or permitted.

The Chelsea has a casual dress code and is open weekdays for lunch from 11:30 AM - 2:30 PM, and Wednesday through Sunday for dinner from 5:30 PM - 10:00 PM. Reservations are recommended, call 310-435-3511.

Sir Winston's is opened daily from 5:30 PM. An evening dress code requests that jackets be worn. Reservations are required, call 310-435-3511.

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