PRINCE WILLIAM, VIRIGINIA, USA - A nation at peace sets aside a paltry two days a year to reflect on its Veterans.... Memorial Day in May which has morphed into the start of summer and Veterans' Day in November.

More than a just another day off for sleeping late and snagging bargains at the mall, Veterans' Day has its roots in world history. It originated after the World War I armistice when on the eleventh hour of the eleventh day, " the war to end all wars" came to a close. This optimistic forecast proved short-lived and many more armed conflicts brought men and women to battle in the Twentieth century.

After World War II, the official commemoration of peace was renamed Veteran's Day, after Viet Nam, it was declared an official government holiday. Among the sites which reflect and respect American servicemen and women is The Marine Corps Combat Development Command. To truly explore the might and mind of the American military, nothing beats a trip to Quantico. Just 30 miles south of Washington, D.C. in Prince William, Virginia, The Crossroads of the Corps is the beating heart and palpable soul of the Marines. Its laden with lore, local color and living lessons for a generation raised at peace.

Even for those without a military bent, the sights and sounds of a bustling military base are far more exciting than any theme park or movie set. And, unlike the museums downtown, the uniforms you see will be modeled by real soldiers.

So spit shine those shoes and get a move on. Off I-95, Exit 150, is the Main Gate of Quantico. As you enter, you'll pass by a smaller version of the famed Iwo Jima Memorial. Pull up, present your I.D. (A drivers license will do) and state your business (which is to visit the Marine Corps Air-ground Museum). Once admitted, the Marines at the gate will present you with directions to the museum.

Enjoy the ride through the base, the hardwood forest lining the drive, the immaculate links of the Medal of Honor Golf Course, barracks, classroom buildings, The FBI Academy, fire station, medical and dental clinics, entertainment and command centers and all the amenities of a contained community. You'll pass by the parade grounds and may see an inspection. You'll also pass by Brown Airfield and glimpse the Potomac River which serves as a "faux ocean" for landing maneuvers.

The Air Ground Museum

Follow the small signs to The Air Ground Museum adjacent to the training grounds. You'll hear the sing-song cadence of the troops as they jog with their forty pound packs, or hear them yell as they challenge themselves on the obstacle course. Tucked away in three hangars is the Air Ground Museum. The vintage WW II aircraft and a pair of tanks displayed outdoors will assure that you've accomplished your mission and taken the beach.

The history of the United States Marine Corps is as old as our country. The Marines were authorized by the Continental Congress on November 10, 1775, to take part in The American Revolution. Marines have made more than 300 landings on foreign shores in two centuries including hazardous duty in Vietnam, Korea, Operation Desert Storm and Caribbean conflicts. The Air Ground Museum focuses on Marine contributions to World War I, World War II and Korea. Artifacts from Vietnam, Desert Storm and other more recent operations are awaiting the construction of a new facility at Quantico in the year 2000.

Despite the primitive conditions of the Quonset hut hangars, the museum is a gem. Tanks, guns, trucks, aircraft and displays are in pristine condition, each with a readable narrative label that brings you back. Like a war-machine time-machine, the hangar includes music of the Forties as you pass by the piloted aircraft looking fit for duty. The role of the Corps in the Pacific theater is told through exhibits displaying the evolution of air-ground tactics, amphibious operations and arms. Both U.S. and Japanese weapons and uniforms are displayed. Wake Island and Okinawa become more than just islands in the Pacific that our grandparents talked about.

Among the dozens of vehicles you'll see are an M60A1 Tank, Genesis II used in Operation Desert Storm and its predecessor, a 1943 Sherman Tank used in 1943. Theres a TBF/TBM Avenger and an F6F Hellcat, and an SBD Dauntless manufactured by Northrop in 1940. A tour through the three hangars can take an hour or three hours, depending on how closely you look. Veterans of these wars may want to plan a full day at Quantico.

Tucked away in the corner of the Korean War hangar is the closet-sized gift shop, run by the military dependent's auxiliary. Books, patches, shirts, videos, jewelry and Marine Corps memorabilia brings veterans to share stories with officer on duty, Sargent Bill Thomas. He loves to hear the stories told by older Veterans during their visit. Said Thomas: " They see one of the patches and it gets them talking. It's interesting to hear the real life accounts of what you've read in the history books."

Quantico Town

After your visit to the Air-Ground Museum, turn right off Barnett Avenue for a visit to Quantico Town, America's only town completely surrounded by a military reservation. You'll be in good company with other famous visitors like Captain John Smith, George Washington, General Rochambeau, Jefferson Davis, and the 72-vessel Navy of Virginia which was harbored there during the American Revolution.

After the Civil War, developers and their Potomac Land and Improvement Company attempted to form a town called Potomac. It refused to thrive and remained a village. Later, the Quantico Company enticed visitors from Washington, D.C. to travel here with dancing, picnicking boating and socializing. The resort environment was replaced by the military environment when the base was created in l917. Veterans from that year recall that Quantico was "hot as a pistol and muddier than a pigsty". Fortunately those days are long gone.

Visitors can still enjoy a picnic at the town park along the wide waters of the Potomac or stop in for a sandwich or full lunch menu at one of the towns ten restaurants and eateries. And, for a haircut that won't grow out overnight, try one of the tiny town's four barbers, guaranteed to pass inspection. The relationship between the town and its neighbor has been a good one since the days of merchants providing low-cost moonshine to the troops have ended. Major General Smedley D. Butler boycotted the town until the merchants stopped selling the illegal whiskey in1928.

The Globe & Laurel

Leaving Quantico, you'll pass under the gate sign which reads " Semper Fi", the marine slogan from the Latin meaning "always faithful". Being a marine is not a tour of duty but a way of life. Nowhere is that more evident than at The Globe and Laurel Restaurant less than a mile north of the base on U.S. Route 1. The tiny Tudor pub front belies the fame and the food within the doors. Noted mystery writer Patricia Cornwell is a Globe and Laurel regular. The restaurant plays a prominent role in her novel All that Remains. Cornwell writes: "There was something reassuring about The Globe and Laurel that made me feel safe." The restaurant has also been included in "August Patriot" by Leland Stevens and other spy thrillers. It's also been source of a code word FBI sting operations as well as power lunches from military minds.

If you're lucky, owner Major Spooner will be on duty behind the bar. A 30 year veteran of the Corps, Spooner sought to provide a pub atmosphere like the ones he'd enjoyed on travel during his career. It was his intent to offer his patrons the best of the best. FBI agents helped him select house brands. They chose only the elite: Beefeaters Gin, Jack Daniels Black Label, Dewars White Label and so on. He focused on fine food and service at prices even soldiers could afford. Spooner and wife Gloria served as gracious hosts in the small pub which seats 60.

When the FBI Academy opened in l972, several agents, who had become pub regulars asked that three patches be attached to the ceiling over their table and a new tradition was born. Today patches cover the ceiling and marine corps memorabilia donated by patrons and friends make this one of the world's best museums...one where you can drink in the atmosphere... while having a drink.

The Globe and Laurel has seen its share of celebrities over the last quarter century, but the major is gracious to military and civilian alike..including a recent visit by actress Demi Moore. He revels in his new career, in swapping stories with his lunch bunch of retired Marines and in enjoying his family and friends. "There's more to life than just money. You have to do something you enjoy doing. "What's important, said Spooner, "is love of country, Corps, cause and principles."

Spooner is particularly proud of The Medal of Honor, The Silver Star donated by the family of World War I Veteran Captain Bill Radcliffe, who had been a patron for years. He's pleased to show patrons the memorabilia when time permits.

The Globe and Laurel is a splendid stop for lunch or dinner. Be sure and sample the onion soup, the prime rib or one of the Caesar salads. And, the most fun is listening to the conversations at the bar. If you're very fortunate, you'll hear tales that sound like a John Wayne movie script. And, some of them are true.

Prince William Forest Park

After your meal, a good stop is the Prince William Forest Park which served as training ground for the U.S. Army's Office of Strategic Service during World War II from 1942-1945. This office later became the CIA. The park was closed to the public and the two units assigned there were unaware the other existed in the 17,000 acres of forest. The cabins built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, which housed OSS forces, are now on the National Registry and are available for overnight rental by the general public.

If you ask at the Visitors' Center, they'll provide directions to these historic cabin camps and you can walk off your meal in Washington's largest green space. You'll see deer, wild turkey, and dozens species of Virginia's indigenous wildlife in one of the quietest and most lovely parks in the region. The park offers miles of hiking trails, picnic areas, a scenic drive and visitors center. Mountain biking is permitted along miles of fire roads.

If you're of a mind to golf, Forest Greens Golf Club, across the road from the park, offers a par 72 championship golf course that's open to the public year-round.

Quantico National Cemetary

Another must is a visit to Quantico National Cemetery. Tucked along Route 619 across from Prince William Forest Park is the resting place for many of our nation's heroes. Soldiers from all branches of the armed forces are interred within the rolling hills of the Virginia Piedmont in Prince William County. Among the acres of hills and trees, you'll encounter few visitors.

Wildlife abounds with deer and foxes, wild turkey and songbirds. The rows of simple white headstones announce the names, dates and branch of service. It's a good place to pause and reflect. A walk through these stones with a whisper of thanks was my simple tribute to these men and women who made it possible.

The silence of the cemetery speaks more loudly of their sacrifice than any speech. The wind rustles the leaves. A heart-shaped balloon is attached to the stone of a veteran recently buried. Like a butterfly it lights gently on the stone then moves with the breeze. It reads "We love you".

I'd like to think it was placed by all of us....for all of them....

Getting There

Quantico Marine Base Command is located at Exit 150 off I-95. The Marine Corps Air Ground Museum is open Tuesdays through Sundays April through November. FREE. Call 703-784-2606 M-F, Weekends 703-784-2425.

Prince William Forest Park is located on Route 619 West of I-95 and is open year round . The cost is $4.00 per vehicle. 703-221-7181

Quantico National Cemetery, is located on Route 619 West of I-95 is open year round during daylight hours. Free.

The Globe & Laurel Restaurant, 18418 Jefferson Davis Highway, Triangle, Virginia (Exit 150 off I-95) Lunch Monday-Friday 11:30-1:00 p.m, Dinner Monday through Saturday 5 p.m. -9:30 p.m. Closed Sunday and all national holidays. 703-221-5763.

For more information, on these and other nearby attractions, contact The Prince William/Manassas Conference & Visitors Bureau at 1-800-432-1792 or www.visitpwc.com.

Be sure to also read:

Prince William County, Virginia From A-Z