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Dining in Cajun Country By Cheri Sicard
and Mitch Mandell
ACADIANA, LOUISIANA, USA -- One
of the biggest elements of visiting Louisiana's Cajun Country is the food -- arguably
America's most distinctive regional cuisine. Budget conscious travelers will be
happy to know that getting a good -- make that great -- meal in this neck of the
woods will not require a major cash outlay. The area is filled with great things
to eat at astoundingly low prices. We found lots of wonderful restaurants, shops
and markets. Below are some of our favorites, in no particular order Josephine's
Creole Restaurant -- Josephine Cormier (pictured at right with Cajun cooking
queen Marcelle
Bienvenu) feeds about 50-75 folks a day, many in "to go" boxes so
the working men who frequent her place can take them back to the job. Everything
is homemade here, even the sauces and seasonings, and you can really taste the
difference. There are a lot of restaurants across the country that can learn some
valuable lessons from Josephine. While the restaurant serves standard southern
and soul food fare from steam tables set behind the counter, this food is anything
but ordinary. Every dish positively sings with flavor!
Josephine
learned to cook from her dad's side of the family and she's passed her skills
on to her own three kids and five foster kids. She uses lots of herbs because
she says, "herbs make your meal."
On the subject of Cajun and Creole
cuisine, Josephine says "People from different heritages, even within the
Cajun and Creole culture, cook differently. There are a million nuances to this
cuisine." Everything we tried here (and we tried it all) was outstanding,
but especially memorable were the ribs, the dirty rice, and the smothered okra.
Absolutely not to be missed is the macaroni and cheese -- the best we've had anywhere
(don't even think about the calorie count). At Josephine's, nothing is
wasted, as it all contains flavor -- a common theme in Cajun and Creole cooking.
For instance, the drippings from the turkey go into the cornbread dressing. Josephin's
has been open for 13 years now (this was written in 2006) and operates a thriving
catering business in addition to her restaurant. The menu here changes daily,
so come back a few times if your time in the area allows it. You won't be disappointed.
Note: Josephine's is open for lunch only -- no breakfast, no dinner!
Possum's
- This casual St. Martinville cafe is a good place for lunch, dinner or a cold
drink at the bar. Especially good are the crab cakes and the "Puff n Stuff"
- a savory concoction of shrimp or chicken in cream sauce encased in a delicate
puff pastry shell. Nice touches here include the homemade cocktail sauce that
has a nice lemony zest, and the house dressing - a remoulade type sauce with an
extra touch of cayenne spiciness.
Victor's
Cafeteria -- Dave Roubicheaux eats here! Victor's found international recognition
via the fictional detective, but in all actuality Roubicheaux creator James Lee
Burke is the one with the affinity for Victor's Cafeteria, using it as a setting
in his books. Likewise mystery novel fans will have an extra reason for visiting
one of New Iberia's favorite eateries. Most folks, however, go for the great home
cooking.
Victor's has been serving up all your favorite Southern foods
cafeteria style since 1969. There are so many good things to eat here, it's difficult
to choose. "Eyes bigger than the stomach" syndrome is a common affliction
at Victor's Cafeteria. Especially
good is the fried chicken, the side dishes, and Victor's homemade pies. Don't
even think about leaving without a slice (my favorite was the Coconut Cream, but
they're all good), or you'll be missing out on some truly memorable desserts.
Note: Victor's is open for breakfast and lunch only! If you can't
make it Victor's, know that they market a line of savory frozen pies under the
5 'Lil Cajuns brand, so look for them in grocery stores throughout the south.
Bon
Creole Café -- This small local cafe makes the best Po' Boys
(the Southern equivalent of a hoagie, submarine sandwich, or grinder) in the area.
The folks that run this friendly establishment are also major seafood purveyors
and wholesalers, so you can't go wrong with any of their seafood dishes, which
are ultra-fresh. Try the shrimp Po' Boy or the soft shell crab Po' Boy -- the
fillings are plentiful, and perfectly cooked and seasoned. An order of fries makes
a perfect side dish. You'll find an array of local hot sauces to spice up your
sandwiches Creole style.
Mulate's,
The Original Cajun Restaurant -- If you want some hearty Cajun fare, from
spicy snacks like fried shrimp or alligator, to a full meal like gumbo or jambalaya,
accompanied by a full bar, Mulate's is a good choice. This is casual fare, much
of it fried, and all of it spicy and delicious.
The decor is casual -- the
ceiling peppered with past patron's business cards. Be sure to leave yours too
(you waitress will be happy to provide the necessary tacks) to prove you were
there. Go
to Mulate's in the evening and your food will be served to the sounds of a live
Cajun band, for this place is just as much a dance hall as it is a restaurant.
You can dance the night away to a Cajun beat and burn off your dinner before retiring
for the evening. Many great bands perform at Mulate's on a regular basis, so keep
your eyes on the schedule for your favorites.
You can get a similar food/drink/dance
combo at Prejeans Restaurant in Lafayette too.
Don's
Seafood Restaurant -- Bargain hunters can't go wrong at this Lafayette restaurant.
For around $10.00 (as of this writing in 2006) diners can get an enormous seafood
platter that includes shrimp, stuffed crab, oysters and fish. (Yes you read that
correctly.) In addition to the seafood platter, you'll find an array of typical
southern and Cajun fare, with an emphasis on fresh seafood. It's not hip or happening,
just good old fashioned coastal southern fare at unbeatable prices.
Dwyer's
Café -- Dwyer's has been a Lafayette institution since it first opened
in 1927. While they are open for dinner, you'll find a lot of locals gathering
here for breakfasts and lunches especially. As it's located in the heart of downtown
Lafayette, Dwyer's seems to be the local place to see and be seen, catch up with
neighborhood news, and enjoy a hearty morning meal or plate lunch.
Breakfasts
are a Southern style affair, naturally. Don't miss the grits or the sweet potato
pancakes (the owner put the latter on the menu to cater to low carb dieters but
they were so good they became popular with everyone).
Plate lunches are
served cafeteria style with a main course meat entree (try the smothered pork
chops) with three side dishes of your choice, all for about six bucks!
More
Great Eats on the Cheap
Some of the best budget conscious food you can
get in Cajun Country doesn't come from a restaurant at all. Small bakeries and
markets abound with food you can take away for a casual picnic or meal on the
go. Here are our favorites:
Meche's
Donut King -- You may think you've had good donuts before, but unless you've
been to Meche's you're probably mistaken. The donuts here are so soft, so light,
so flavorful, they're almost ethereal. As demand for these melt-in-your-mouth
treats is high, you're bound to get them fresh and warm from the fryer or oven
most any morning.
The bakery has been operating for over twenty-one years
now. Meche's has three locations in Lafayette, run by three different Meche siblings
-- Shelley, Ricky, and Rowdy. In
addition to donuts, Meche's is famous for their Mardi
Gras King Cakes. Don't worry if your visit doesn't coincide with carnival
season, Meche's makes these traditional Cajun cakes all year long, in a variety
of flavors and stuffed with an assortment of different fillings. They ship King
Cakes to every state in the union. Last year (2005) the Guilbreaux Road location
alone made 16,020 King Cakes. Of those, 1675 of those were sent out of the area
via overnight shipping.
Poupart's
Bakery -- It's easy to forget you are in Louisiana and not France inside the
doors of Poupart's Bakery. All the sweet and savory pastries and baked goods you'd
find in a typical Parisienne patisserie can be found here, prepared to perfection
by its native French owners. The French Bread is sheer perfection -- with a soft
inner texture and a crust that is crisp and light, offering the perfect amount
of bite resistance before yielding to the soft yeasty heart of the loaf. Absolutely
not to be missed are Louise Poupart's homemade jams, jellies and preserves in
variety of flavors from traditional berry to fig and even Japanese plum. Take
home several jars or you'll be sorry later you didn't. Our favorite was the fig
preserves -- sweet but not cloying and filled with delicate fruit flavor. Poupart's
also serves a variety of sandwiches, on their homemade bread and flaky croissants,
so this is a good place to pick up a picnic lunch to go. Enjoy your sandwiches
underneath the Evangeline Oak and
soak up some Cajun history at the same time.
City
Garden Market at River Ranch -- Set in the center of a stylish, brand new,
perfectly planned community is a farmer's market that feels like it stepped out
of yesterday. Each Saturday farmers and artisans bring their wares to the River
Ranch town square. In addition to fresh local produce -- some of it organic --
you'll find artists and crafts people along with food purveyors. We got a terrific
muffuletta
sandwich from 9 year old Robert H. Duncan (pictured at right). Robert's mom
makes the sandwiches, but he's one heck of salesman. Even if you're not hungry,
it's impossible to say no to this cute charmer, and you can always eat the delicious
hearty classic New Orleans sandwich later.
Another
staple at the market is Jimmy Romero, AKA "The Pie Man" (pictured at
left). People come from far and wide to get Jimmy's famous pies. The secret is
in the crust, he says, and he's very proud that even the bottom pastry in his
fruit pies never gets soggy. What was once a hobby has turned into a full time
enterprise for the former oil rig worker.
The setting at the market is
serene, and there's lots of lawn space to spread out on and enjoy your purchases
while listening to live music entertainment.
Practicalities
Josephine's Creole Restaurant is located at 830 S Main Street in
St. Martinville, LA 70582. Phone 337-394-8030. Possum's Restaurant
is located at 1007 Little Oak Dr. in St. Martinville, LA 70582. Phone 337-394-3233. You
can find Victor's Cafeteria at 109 W Main Street in New Iberia, LA 70560.
Call 318-369-9924. Bon Creole is located at 1409 E. St. Peter St.
in New Iberia, LA 70560. Phone 337-367-6181. Find Mulate's, The Original
Cajun Restaurant at 325 Mills Avenue in Breaux Bridge, LA 70517. Phone 337-332-4648.
Prejean's Restaurant can be found at 3480 NE Evangeline Trwy in
Lafayette, LA 70507. Phone 337-896-3247 or click to www.prejeans.com. Don's
Seafood Restaurant is located at 301 E Vermilion Street in Lafayette, LA 70501.
Phone 337-235-3551 or visit their website at www.donsdowntown.com. Meche's
Donuts has three Lafayette locations: 306 E Willow Street Lafayette, LA 70501;
402 Guilbreaux Rd, Lafayette, LA 70506; and 205 Rue Louis XIV, Lafayette, LA 70508.
Phone 337-232-2782. Poupart's Bakery is located at 1902 W Pinhook
Road in Lafayette, LA 70508. Phone 337-232-7921 or visit their website at www.poupartsbakery.com.
The City Garden Market is held every Saturday at River Ranch Town
Square in Lafayette from 8AM to noon. Phone 337-316-6356 or click to www.riverranchdevelopment.com.
More Things To Do, See and Eat In Cajun CountryNote:
Our picks are in no particular order, a higher list placement does not indicate
quality, this list is too diverse to compare those apples to these oranges. Click
the links below to read about these fabulous attractions and activities: |
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