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Story & Photos by Cheri Sicard
SAN
ANTONIO, TEXAS, USA - There I was in San Antonio, deep in the heart of
Texas, and my taste buds were having the time of their life! Since arriving
in this fair city, my companions and I had managed to munch down countless
baskets of tortilla chips topped with spicy hot salsa and accompanied
by bottomless pitchers of frosty Margaritas. The cocktails and appetizers
were only a prelude to steaming platters of enchiladas, rellenos and carne
asada, prepared as only a San Antonio Tex Mex restaurant can. We wolfed
down beef, pork, chicken and even shrimp, encased in tortillas, bathed
in sauces made from chiles and other exotic Mexican spices and frequently
blanketed in a heavy layer of cheese, cheese and even more cheese. We
loved every fattening morsel and didn't slow down until the meal's grand
finale, large bowls of deep fried ice cream covered in a decadent chocolate
sauce.
Deep
fried ice cream! Yeesh! Could anything be worse for the body? Don't get
me wrong, this creamy confection is the nectar of the gods in my book,
but even on its own, it packs a hefty caloric wallop. To make things worse
(although, believe it or not even better tasting), the folks in San Antonio
coat it in coconut and deep fry it. Ridiculously rich, but nothing in
the world could have stopped us from digging in to the sinful indulgence.
It was all too good, and way too available. For instance, if you have
a 3AM craving for chile rellenos accompanied by some lively Mariachi music,
just head over to Mi Tierra where they serve south-of the border
style feasts, twenty-four hours a day!
But
it is a fact that San Antonio offers a lot more than just good food. Remember
the Alamo? I remembered it all right (from a previous journey, and from
elementary school history classes), but at this rate, I'd be lucky to
fit through the door. Salvation arrived, however, and not a moment too
soon, in the form of a charming young gentleman named Kevin Hix
of Mission Trail Bike Rentals. Tooling around on two wheels is
actually one of the best ways to see this wonderful city, as well as a
fine way to get rid of some inevitable "excess baggage" in the process.
Kevin will even deliver your "two wheeled steeds" right to your hotel
room door at no extra charge.
We Start
The
morning was young and the previous night's gustatory overindulgence seemed
a distant memory, as we hopped on our bikes and headed for the start of
the San Antonio Mission Trail. The newly opened bike path takes visitors
along one of the most historically significant routes in the United States,
past four Franciscan Missions, dating back to the mid 1700s and ending
at the Alamo in downtown San Antonio. The ultra-flat terrain makes the
ride easy enough for even novice bikers. Just make sure to bring lots
of water and sunscreen, and if you attempt the ride in the heat of summer,
start early to avoid the scorching midday sun.
Handy trail maps are available from Kevin or the National Park Service.
Or if you're "cartographically challenged," take the ever so charming
Kevin, or one of his equally affable cohorts along as a guide.
The Missions
In
the 1700s, missions played an essential part in the colonization of the
new world. Each was its own self contained community with its own solid
economy. The stone walls surrounding the missions also served as fortresses,
protecting inhabitants, both Franciscan friars and the indigenous Coahuiltecan
Indians, from bands of raiding Comanches and Apaches. Of course religion,
namely Catholicism, played an important part of everyday life back then,
and in fact, the missions are the homes of active Catholic parishes to
this very day.
Your journey will likely start at Mission Espada, at the southern
end of the Mission Trail. Following Spanish rule, each of the missions
were built to closely resemble Spanish villages. Likewise, the architecture
contains elements of Moorish design, Renaissance detail and gothic arches,
slightly modified to accommodate the rugged frontier conditions of early
Texas.
As you leave Mission Espada, you'll meander past the extensive Acequia
System, an innovative network of seven gravity-flow irrigation ditches,
five dams and an aqueduct, which despite the arid Texas desert, kept about
3500 acres of land well watered. The system was so well engineered that
nearby farms still make use of the ancient irrigation network today. The
best preserved of the acequias is the Espada dam, just north of the Mission
Espada, where you'll roll past one of the oldest Spanish aqueducts in
the United States (completed in 1740).
Next along the trail is Mission San Juan, established in 1731.
This mission was a bustle of activity in its heyday, with Indian artisans
producing iron, wood, cloth and leather goods. The settlement's extensive
gardens and orchards produced an abundance of produce as well. As a result
of this productivity, Mission San Juan established a trade network that
reached out as far as Louisiana.
San Jose, the largest and best known of the Texas missions, is
next down the road. Once home to over 300 inhabitants, the mission was
supported by its extensive livestock herds. San Jose, a major social and
cultural center in the late 1700's, is a wonderful place to take time
to appreciate the exquisite craftsmanship that went into the missions.
Mission
Concepcion has long been the place where religious festivals were
held. Be sure to take time to explore the interior of this beautiful church,
for many original paintings still exist on the walls. Colorful geometric
paintings originally covered the exterior walls as well, but these have
long faded.
It's just a short ride to go from Mission Concepcion to the Alamo,
the last "mission" on the San Antonio trail. Visitors to this famous site
can re-learn the history lesson's they forgot from 3rd grade. But by this
point, you might be feeling a bit "historied out." You might be feeling
hungry or thirsty after your bike ride. Don't worry, one of the best things
about the Alamo is that you're basically "right in the thick of things"
with more Tex Mex cuisine than you can eat beckoning your senses from
every direction. Hmmm, maybe you'll want to bike the Mission Trail every
day while in San Antonio.
Getting There
Mission
Trial Bike Rentals - 210-805-8937 or email missionrentals
@worldnet.att.net
San Antonio Missions National Historic Park - 210-534-8833
San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau - 800-447-3372 or 210-207-6700
or visit their website at www.sanantoniocvb.com.
For some of that famous San Antonio Tex-Mex cuisine, be sure to check
out:
- Mi Tierra - 210-225-1262
- La Margarita - 210-227-7140 or email lamarg@txdirect.net
- Lone Star Cafe - 210-223-9374
- Rio Rio Cantina - 210-227-7140
And
if, by chance, you get enough South-of-the-Border food, check out L'Etoile
for some fantastic French cuisine, deep in the heart of Texas! Call 210-826-4551.
Southwest Airlines has lots of direct flights into San Antonio
- 800-435-9792 or on the web at www.iflyswa.com.
For more great ideas of things to do in Texas, check out Food
Festivals of Texas: A Traveler's Guide & Cookbook.
In the Nearby Area:
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