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A Culinary Tour of New Brunswick, Canada

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By Cheri Sicard
Posted August 6th, 2007
FabulousFoods.com Recommends: Maritime Provinces Off the Beaten Path, 6th (Off the Beaten Path Series), by Trudy Fong, (2007, GPP Travel)
Maritime Provinces Off the Beaten Path, 6th (Off the Beaten Path Series)
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culinary tour of New Bruswick, Canada
There are places you visit and then there are destinations. A destination is a place who's personality is so distinctive, your memories of it never fade, even after years and years. When you recall a certain day, a certain activity or even a certain meal, you never have to think twice about where you were when you first experienced it. Canada's maritime province of New Brunswick definitely qualifies as a destination.

From its rocky coasts, dotted with quaint, but functional, lighthouses, to it's brightly colored rolling hills in autumn, to its covered bridge covered streams (there are actually more covered bridges in New Brunswick than in Vermont!) to its unforgettable regional cuisine, New Brunswick will leave you filled with memories.

culinary tour of New Bruswick, CanadaThe province literally has something for everyone. Rugged adventurers will have almost too many activities to choose from: kayaking, sailing, canoeing, horseback riding, rappelling and rock climbing, to name but a few. Golf enthusiasts will find miles of green to keep them happy. Hunters and fishermen alike will find no shortage of game in the waters or woods. History buffs could spend years exploring this province, which was originally settled by loyalists in the 1700's.

Last, but not least, everyone will marvel at the Bay Of Fundy, home of the highest tides in the world! If you arrive at low tide, you'll be greeted by the strange site of boats lying in mud, a long, long, long way from the water. Just wait till the tide comes in, however, and all will be well.

Bountiful Land, Bountiful Sea
These same high tides are what gives New Brunswick much of its culinary bounty. Lobsters, scallops, mussels and salmon are all abundant in the waters surrounding the province. So abundant, in fact, that they're hardly considered luxuries! A local native, Percy Mallet, regaled us with a humorous story of his school days. "You could always tell who the poor kids in school were," he said. "Their fathers were fishermen and they always had lobster in their lunch boxes."

All of a sudden brown bag lunches are looking up!

New Brunswick also has a bountiful land. All sorts of berries grow wild: strawberries, blueberries, huckleberries, blackberries and raspberries. Mushrooms line the forest floors and for a short while during the summer, fiddleheads grow.

fiddleheads, culinary tour of New Bruswick, CanadaFiddleheads and mushrooms. It sounds magical. Enchanted even. I can just imagine a group of gnomes huddled under a giant mushrooms cap, playing on a fiddle. And in a way, fiddleheads are magical. They're only in season for about two weeks per year.

If you've never tried these delicacies, make the effort. About the size of a half dollar when at their prime, these ferns resemble, you guessed it, fiddleheads. Their tightly coiled fruit is crunchy with a bit of an asparagus taste. New Brunswick natives use them in soups and stews, as a side dish, as an appetizer and in salads. You'll find fiddleheads in a lot of the regional cuisine of New Brunswick and the maritime provinces.

Fiddleheads, because of their short growing season, are likewise hard to find. They are available frozen, although not widely so. If you're lucky to have them in your area, grab them.

Great Chefsculinary tour of New Bruswick, Canada
New Brunswick is not only blessed with a great culinary bounty, they also have some incredible chefs to prepare it. From one side of the province to the other, we were continually delighted with the wonderful meals we were served and the creativity and originality that went into preparing them.


Saint John, New Bruswick, tapps brew pubOur tour starts in Saint John, where you'll also arrive if you happen to fly into New Brunswick. Saint John, originally founded by loyalists in 1785 sits near the mouth of the 450 mile Saint John River, which runs backwards twice a day during the high tides! Adventuresome tourists can take a jet boat to ride through the rapids at  Reversing Falls, truly an "E-Ticket" ride. Those wishing a calmer pace will delight in a historical tour of this fascinating town.

We dined at downtown Saint John's Tapp's Brewpub, a casual bar and restaurant with a variety of great micro-brews. The fare was typical of pub fare, hearty sandwiches and snacks (unfortunately, not much for vegetarians), with a few surprises thrown in for good measure. In addition to the good brew, Tapp's had excellent soups (like the potato beer soup we got the recipe for) and one of the best chocolate pies I have ever had (they also graciously shared this recipe). Much of their fare, like the Tapp's recipes we are publishing here, have beer as one of the ingredients.

Yes, you read that right. Chocolate pie made with beer! A hearty dark stout to be exact. The bitterness of the stout, mixes wonderfully with the richness of the chocolate. Give it a try, you won't be sorry!




 

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