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SEQUOIA KINGS CANYON NATIONAL PARK, CALIFORNIA, USA -- "The greatest treasure in these United States are our National Parks." I say this all the time about the 83.6 million acres set aside by the U.S. government for nature to take its course and for us to enjoy.
My third grade teacher first introduced me to our national parks back in grade school, when she showed slides of her summer vacation to California's Sequoia National Park. There were shots of the General Sherman tree, considered the worlds largest, along with other massive sequoias of the giant forest. I remember we all did crayon drawings of the forest, inspired by the slides. Not quite the experience of being there, but I was fascinated by the forest and the giant trees.
Twenty-five, ahh-hmm, make that thirty-five years later, I've been to almost every national and state park in my home state of California. It took me way too long to get to Sequoia National Park. However, not much has changed since third grade. The trees are still there and the magic of the woods is alive and well. Things evolve slowly in the forest.
Camp/Lodge?
Although there's abundant tent and RV camping in the park, I opted to stay at the lodge located on the former site of a settlement that first began around the turn of the century. The Wuksachi Lodge is nestled in the forest with glorious views of the surrounding mountain peaks. Even though it was just built in 1999, with its wood and stone structure, the main lodge looks like it has been there for years.
The large dining room has floor to ceiling windows running the entire length of on wall. Being elevated above the sloping hill and looking out the window made me feel like I was floating among the trees. The food in the Wuksachi Lodge dinning room is prepared by Chef Dan Gilmore. Dan's training in the Southwest is evident in work like his Goat Cheese Tamale with Salsa Fresca and Mole Sauce. On those cold evenings or after a hike a bowl of Dan's Sweet Potato and Ancho Chili Soup fits the bill (click links for recipes). Chef Gilmore does a nice job of balancing his menu to meet the needs and palates of families traveling with small children as well as adults looking for a weekend getaway.
Communing with Nature
This trip took place in the early spring and much of the snow of the winter was still around and about, with one third of the park still inaccessible. Even so, I like traveling in the off season -- crowds are small, which makes communing with nature easier.
And commune we did, starting with a hike to Tokopah Falls: The trail to Tokopah Falls starts just beyond the Log Bridge in Lodgepole Campground. It is an easy 1.7 mile (one way) walk along the Marble Fork of the Kaweah River to the impressive granite cliffs and waterfall of Tokopah Canyon. Tokopah Falls is 1200' (365.8 meters) high. It was most impressive due to the run-off from the melting snowpack in the Pear Lake region upstream.
While climbing the the snow covered trail, all of a sudden we heard a loud CRACK! Followed by another. Looking in the direction of the sound we saw a house-sized mound of ice and snow tear away from the rocks and drop 200 feet to the river bed below. It was awesome to get a great view of the crashing avalanche without danger.
A walk within a forest is always interesting. Just keep your eyes open and your senses aware and you'll see all kinds of things. Sure, we got to the waterfall, it was full of water and very powerful. But it's the walk through the forest that's most magical and memorable to me, filling the senses of sight, sound, smell and touch simultaneously.
Local History
Those curious about learning more about the Giant Forest should plan time to visit the park's Giant Forest Museum. Located amid the trees, the reconstructed structure, originally designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood (known for his outstanding designs of the Ahwahnee in Yosemite and the Grand Canyon Lodge on the North Rim), looks right at home. There are great many hikes and sights to see around the museum, so it makes a great place to start a short day's adventure.
For a weekend getaway or a vacation destination, I urge everyone with a love of nature to visit Sequoia Kings Canyon. It is nature at is grandest and not to be missed. As I write this article, the giant Sequoias of the forest are perilously close to catching fire. We can only hope and pray that these great trees, the oldest living things on earth, will be saved for future generations to enjoy.
Getting There
Flying: The closest commercial airports are the small facilities in Fresno & Visalia over an hour away.
Auto: Gasoline is NOT sold within park boundaries. Be sure to fill up in one of the towns near the park entrance or at two locations in neighboring national forest areas -- Hume Lake (year-round) and Kings Canyon Lodge (closed in winter).
To Sequoia Park Entrance from Visalia: From Highway 99 at Visalia, take Highway 198 east for approximately 1 hour.
To Kings Canyon Park Entrance from Fresno: From Highway 99 at Fresno, take Highway 180 east approximately 1-1/4 hours.
There is no public transportation to these parks.
Operating Hours, Seasons
- The two main entrances (on highways 198 & 180) are open daily year-round.
- Winter closures: The Mineral King area in Sequoia Park & the Cedar Grove area in Kings Canyon Park. Mineral King is open late May through October 31. Cedar Grove is open mid-April to mid-November. Crystal Cave, some campgrounds, and several side roads close for the winter. The main park road may close between Lodgepole & Grant Grove during & after storms for plowing.
- Highest visitation is in July & August. It can be difficult to find a campsite at popular campgrounds on summer Saturdays.
Where to Stay
- Wuksachi Village: In Sequoia National Park, 4 miles (6.5km) from Giant Forest; 23 miles (37km) from Sequoia Park entrance. Features modern hotel rooms in several lodge buildings. Restaurant & gift shop nearby. Elevation 6500 feet (1980m). In winter, you are least likely to encounter road closures enroute to Wuksachi if you enter the park via Highway 198. Open All Year 1-888-252-5757. (Pictured at top of page.
- Cedar Grove Lodge: Open late April to mid-November. Offers modern rooms in a lodge in Cedar Grove Village, deep in the canyon of Kings Canyon National Park. Restaurant, market, gift shop in building. Elevation 4600 feet (1402m). 559-335-5500.
- Grant Grove Lodge: Offers modern rooms in the John Muir Lodge as well as rustic and housekeeping cabins, all in the Grant Grove area of Kings Canyon National Park, 1/2-mile (.8km) to a sequoia grove. Visitor center, market, restaurant, gift shop, & post office nearby. Elevation 6500 feet (1980m). In winter, you are least likely to encounter road closures enroute to Grant Grove if you enter the park on Highway 180. Open All Year 559-335-5500.
http://www.nps.gov/seki/index.htm
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