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Dining at Chicago's Salpicon Restaurant
Rate it! Votes (0) | Comments (0) By Lee Maloney and Len Govednik Posted August 6th, 2007

If you're quest is for a truly unique upscale Mexican dining experience that will surprise you in every way, then you must include this trendy Chicago restaurant on your list of hot places! Without a doubt, ¡Salpicón! IS the quintessential definition of upscale Mexican dining!

Chef/proprietor Priscila Satkoff and husband Vincent (wine director /proprietor) have created a unique place where you can leave the world outside (unless it's warm enough to dine alfresco) and step into a bit of Mexico in a manner you've never seen or tasted before.

Located in the heart of Chicago's trendy Old Town neighborhood, ¡Salpicón! is cozy and casual with just the right splash of Mexican atmosphere. From the tasteful, subtle, music, to the dark blue and yellow walls showcasing the vibrant original art by noted artist Alejandro Romero, enjoyment is the fundamental focus.

Superlatives abound in most restaurant reviews, however none can adequately describe our honest enthusiasm not only for this great establishment but for Priscila and Vincent as well! We REALLY love this place!!!

Great food, reasonable prices, fabulous drinks, attentive and knowledgeable servers and delightful hosts all combine to make ¡Salpicón! one of Chicago's greatest treasures.

¡Salpicón! is a labor of love for the Satkoff's. Watching them work side by side one can observe that they are symbiotic in their thoughts and actions. Often they are seen visiting the tables of their guests, making sure that everything is just right.

Priscila has hosted TV Food Network's Melting Pot show and has been featured in numerous other television shows, national and local food magazines and newspapers around the country for her flavorful and unique cooking style.

Their extensive wine program, managed by Vincent, is exciting and diverse. Vincent is always on hand to assist diners in pairing their food choices with wines. All the wines at ¡Salpicón! have been selected to compliment the spicy foods which wife Priscila so lovingly creates.

The menu (which changes frequently) featured, at the time of our last visit, such delightful appetizers as Tamales Santa Clara (fresh corn tamales filled with queso fresco and serrano chiles with a spicy salsa de molcajete and crema), Camarones al Carbon (grilled tiger shrimp served with two sauces: avocado-tomatillo sauce; and a spicy roasted tomato and chipolte sauce; garnished with fresh mango spices, Ceviche (fresh blue marlin marinated with lime juice with onions, tomatoes, fresh chiles and herbs), and Crepa de Huitlacoche (earthy corn mushrooms sautéed with onion, garlic and Serrano chiles, folded into a cilantro crepe and topped with a roasted poblano cream sauce and Manchego cheese). Main courses included Codornices en Salsa de Chile con Miel (garlic-marinated and grilled Manchester Farm quail served in a sauce of ancho chiles, garlic, caramelized onions and honey with a potato, cilantro and queso anejo cake), Langostinos San Miguel (grilled freshwater prawns in a creamy tomatillo-cerrano sauce served with arrozs blanco), Tinga Pablana (grilled Brookfield Farms pork tenderloin in a spicy roasted tomato-chipotle sauce with chorizo and potatoes; cool avocado-tomatillo sauce), and Pollo en Mole Poblano (Amish free-range chicken breast charcoal-grilled and topped with a classic Pueblan mole).

There are numerous classic Postres (desserts) from which to choose, including the popular Flan de Caramelo (classic egg custard with a rich caramel sauce). Dulce de Cielo (a frozen honey-lavender mousse with roasted pistachios, caramelized almonds and a fresh fruit sauce) is light and delightful. Nieve de Limon con Tequila y Serranos (a spicy lime-tequila sorbet infused with serrano chiles) is a special taste sensation unique to ?Salpic?n!

Now that we've given you a sampling of ¡Salpicónn's! offerings, let us share our experience at this great Chicago eatery: We both opted for Priscila's seven-course "tasting menu" - a veritable cornucopia of gastronomical delights coupled with Vincent's expert and always-perfect pairing of accompanying wines. Our dinner lasted over three hours and was a fabulous journey from one great savoring to the next. The fact that we can still remember in intimate detail the entire dining experience we had at ¡Salpicón! two months later is testimony to this great restaurant's ability to make each visit here a memorable occasion.

For example, we can still savor the velvety-smooth Sopa de Chicharos (English pea soup garnished with avocado, serranos and sofrito) - the finest "split pea soup" either of us has ever tasted (and we LOVE split pea soup!). Len can still taste the Enchiladitas Oaxaquenas (small enchiladas of chicken breast topped with a classic Oaxacan black mole and queso fresco). Lee's Filete de Res en Salsa de Moritas con Honhos (grilled Certified Black Angus beef tenderloin topped with Chihuahua cheese, served in a spicy tomatillo-morita sauce with shiitakes; Mexican rice) still makes his mouth water.

Vincent's expertise in collecting one of the most extensive wine collections we have ever seen (and have we seen a LOT of wine) is equaled by his ability to select the perfect wine for each dish. Believe us when we say, we put him to the test with the 7-course meal we enjoyed. The food by itself was excellent - but when expertly paired with the correct wine, our dinner transformed itself into a perfect symphony of delectable tastes. ¡Salpicón! also has one of the most extensive collections of tequila you will find.

Service at ¡Salpicón! is both attentive and unobtrusive. Our server not only possessed great knowledge about the offerings but also the ingredients: insights into the many unique Mexican flavors that Priscila weaves into each masterpiece. Len's request for dishes "not too spicy" and Lee's aversion to seafood were graciously honored.

Amazingly, the best part of our evening at ¡Salpicón! wasn't the food, the service, or the wine. It was meeting the Satkoff's! We literally closed the restaurant that evening and then stayed to chat with our remarkable hosts and witness first-hand their dedication and love for not only each other and their amazing establishment, but for people. Vincent took Len upstairs to view the wine rooms and discuss future plans for expansion. Priscila and Lee chatted at length about families and friends, art, music, life, and - of course - food!

It is so much easier to review a bad restaurant. Or even a good restaurant. But reviewing ¡Salpicón! is so much more difficult because it is almost impossible to find words that do justice to this establishment. The final salsa on ¡Salpicón!: great food - fabulous wines and tequilas - inviting atmosphere - and excellent service under the guidance of two of Chicago's greatest hosts.

Practicalities
¡Salpicón! Open for dinner nightly from 5:00PM
Sunday brunch from 11:00 to 2:30
1252 N Wells St Chicago IL 60610
Phone 312-988-7811 Fax 312-988-7715
www.salpicon.com
Valet - yes
Reservations - highly recommended!
Average Price: $50/person (one drink included)
Smoking - outside

Lee Maloney is based in Chicago Illinois. When Lee isn't reviewing restaurants he's busy orchestrating music for some of America's top variety shows.

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