GUNFLINT LODGE, MINNESOTA - When I told friends and family that I was leaving Los Angeles in the middle of January to go dog sledding in Minnesota, they looked at me as if I were insane. And while I might go through bouts of temporary insanity (who doesn't?), this was not one of those occasions. The week I spent at Northern Minnesota's Gunflint Lodge was one of the most fascinating and unusual adventures I've ever had.

For some inexplicable reason, I've always had a fascination with the North, or extreme South. I've always had visions of going to Antarctica or the North Pole and while other kids were playing cowboys and Indians, I was playing Eskimo.

That's why, when I heard about Gunflint Lodge's learn to mush week, I just had to go. Previously, I never knew an ordinary tourist could learn to drive a dog sled. Perhaps most ordinary tourists have no desire to do so. But I did.

Driving the Gunflint Trail
My plane arrived in Duluth on a cold, overcast January morning. I quickly picked up my rented car and started the three hour drive to Gunflint Lodge, which is 43 miles from the nearest town of Grand Marais near the Canadian border.

The drive gave me a chance to soak up the scenery of Lake Superior, which was iced over, its craggy spires looking somewhat like the surface of a strange unknown planet in a 50s sci-fi thriller.

The road, actually called The Gunflint Trail, from Grand Marais to the lodge is narrow and winds through a gorgeous snow covered forest. Along the drive, I spotted five moose. You cannot believe how incredibly beautiful these gigantic creatures are until you come face to face with one! I later learned that this road is one of the best places in Minnesota to spot moose. Oh sure, there are hikes and cross country ski trails that lead to areas where they allegedly congregate, but according to locals, your chances are better on the Gunflint Trail. The reason for this oddity is that the moose like to lick the salt off the road! Go figure. In any event, it is of utmost importance to drive with extreme caution on the Gunflint Trail. If you hit one of these giants, it could very easily total your vehicle, if not yourself.

Gunflint Lodge
I conveniently arrived at the lodge just in time for dinner. The food at Gunflint Lodge was truly outstanding. You'll also find some of chef Ron Berg's terrific recipes as well.

After dinner, I settled into my cabin. The decor was rustic, in keeping with the theme of the locale but accommodations here include all the comforts of home and then some: a living room complete with wood burning stove and a generous supply of firewood, kindling and starters (freshly stocked each day), a bedroom, kitchen, and bathroom which featured a whirlpool tub and a sauna. What more could you ask for? Sure, it was mighty cold outside, but I had a private sauna to warm me up.

The next morning, while on my way to a hearty breakfast before the day's first activities, I was delighted to see about thirty deer calmly grazing on the snow blanketed lodge lawn. I quickly got out the camera and started shooting photos. As the week wore on, this became such a common site, that I didn't bother. The lodge regularly feeds the deer during the winter. There's also an ample supply of grain for guests to take back to their cabins. It was common to wake up to numerous deer and birds just inches from my frosty cabin window, a truly magical sight to wake up to!

Dogs! Dogs! Dogs!
After breakfast I met with my mushing instructor, Mark. After going over some basics, we went out to meet the dogs. And what a sight that was! Dogs were scattered about the snow covered yard. Some stayed in their dog houses, but most preferred to stay outside in the sub-zero weather. Again , go figure, they had perfectly nice dog houses, but they liked the outdoor Minnesota winter. These dogs are tough!

The canines were delighted to have human visitors and barked their welcomes accordingly. Each had his or her own unique personalities. Some were more friendly than others. Those that were very intelligent were often the "lead dog" on the sled team. The strongest had the position closest to the sled as they bear the brunt of the burden. Those that were, as Mark put it, "dumb as a shovel" were relegated to positions in the middle.

After learning to harness the dogs, I was bundled into the sled and covered with warm blankets as our ten dog team took off through the pines for a short sled ride, Mark driving, of course).

The ride was a blast! The dogs obviously love to go for runs. They were barking excitedly and the minute Mark gave them the signal they were off like a bullet out of a gun.

These dogs, while friendly, seem to be just a bit more "primitive or rugged" than the pets you are probably used to at home. It's much like the difference between a rugged mountain man and a sophisticated city slicker. Scuffles and fights break out occasionally and Mark was constantly monitoring their progress and shouting orders to one pup or another.

An interesting note is that sled dogs are not harnessed like horses. There are no reins. The dogs pull the sled, but all control and steering is done strictly through voice commands from the musher. It is crucial to always know exactly what your dogs are doing in order to avoid any accidents. Dogs can easily get tangled, or jump their lines. A fight could turn into a disaster, if the musher isn't on top of the situation. I had little to worry about with Mark, however. Over the next week, I would go for several more dog sled rides. I learned the commands, fed and watered dogs, harnessed them and even got to drive the sled myself for a short while.

The weather was cold, but on the days the temperature hovered around zero, it actually wasn't bad at all. There was one day, however, that the temperature dipped to fifteen degrees below zero, and that was a different story. Even breathing became painful and there was no way to stay warm.

We happened to be scheduled for a day long sled ride on this ultra-cold day. The dogs didn't seem to mind in the least, nor did Mark, who bravely started a fire in the snow to cook our lunch. It was a gorgeous wilderness picture, the open fire in the snow, the smell of hot chocolate and delicious fried Walleye, mixing with the aroma of the pines. If only it wasn't so cold. I had to keep jogging up and down the trail to keep warm, while Mark cooked. As delicious as the lunch was, I couldn't wait to get moving again.

Before taking off, we gave the dogs a snack, big globs of cold chicken fat, to keep up their energy levels. Yum! The dogs tore into the fat as if it were a delicacy, which to them, it probably was.

My time with the sled dogs was an unforgettable experience. I have always been an animal lover and it was wonderful to see these magnificent creatures so well cared for and doing what they love. The combination of the closeness to the animals and the great outdoors made for a truly magical experience.

Other Gunflint Activities
If you're looking for a winter wonderland vacation, but dog sledding isn't your cup of tea, I would still advise heading to Gunflint Lodge. Cross country skiers will think they've died and gone to heaven. Miles and miles of groomed trails for just about every level of ability are waiting just outside your room.

The area is so remote, it's likely you won't encounter anyone else all day. Gently shushing along a tree lined trail, frequently catching site of deer, rabbits or even moose, has a way of putting one at peace. It's an almost meditative experience.

Another great way to explore the winter wilderness is via snowshoe. One afternoon, Mark and I snowshoed and hiked to a high vista, which allowed us an absolutely breathtaking view of the lodge, Gunflint Lake and the surrounding area into Canada. The lodge has all the equipment you'll need for either snow shoeing or Nordic skiing.

Don't forget to bring your fishing pole either. The ice fishing in these parts is spectacular. Previous to trying this "sport", I have to admit it didn't sound like much fun. Nothing could have been further from the truth. Either with a group of friends (in which case it's likely to turn into a little party) or alone (where it's likely to once again, become a meditative experience), ice fishing is fun!

Mark even caught a fish, although believe it or not, this little "bonus" was not integral to the quality of the entire experience.

In between all this activity, I got to meet some interesting people and have some educational experiences. Carrie, one of the other mushers, was an expert on wolves. She gave a great lecture for the guests one night about her experiences re-integrating these creatures into Yellowstone National Park. Another lecture, given by Erin, yet another musher, was on the geology of the Gunflint area. But most fascinating by far was my visit with Justine Kerfoot, the woman who came to Gunflint Lodge in 1928 and has never left.

The Amazing Justine Kerfoot
I feel honored just to have met Justine. Raised in an upper class family in Illinois, her parents lost everything in the great stock market crash, except the small remote Minnesota fishing camp called Gunflint Lodge. Forced to live in the cold barren wilderness, Justine made the best of it, and came to love her new home. She was instrumental in making Gunflint Lodge, and the entire Gunflint Trail, what it is today. She is the type of person who can handle any challenge and do almost anything.

Strong doesn't even come close to describing Justine. When she came to Minnesota, mere survival was a challenge. She learned to drive dog teams, to hunt and fish, to guide canoe trips, not to mention the day to day work it took to maintain the property. She built furniture, dug wells, strung phone and electrical lines, whatever was needed.

Back in the early days, Gunflint Lodge's only neighbors were the local Ojibwa Indians. Justine's accounts of her lifelong friendships with the Ojibwa people and the way they influenced each other's lives are truly heartwarming.

Now in her nineties, Justine is still active -- in fact her son, Gunflint Lodge owner Bruce Kerfoot, told me she went scuba diving for the first time this year. She is an accomplished writer, doing a weekly newspaper column for the local paper since 1956, as well as the author of several books.

Justine's story is truly inspiring. Be sure to pick up her autobiography Woman of the Boundary Waters, for a more in depth look at one of the most compelling people you're ever likely to come across as well as a fascinating history of the Gunflint Trail that reads like a novel.

While she has turned the running of Gunflint Lodge over to Bruce and his wife, Sue, Justine still lives on the lodge property. If you're lucky, you too will get the pleasure of meeting this legendary woman.

Gunflint At Other Times Of The Year
Surprisingly, the majority of Gunflint Lodge's business is not in the winter at all. Situated on the edge of the Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Area and the Quetico Provincial Park of Ontario, Canada, the lodge is a paddler's paradise.

Bruce and Sue can come up with canoe and/or fishing packages to fit just about any level of interest and ability. They have lots of specialty week programs as well, such as family programs, women's wilderness weeks, fly fishing workshops etc. Check out the "moose calling" special in the fall as well.

Gunflint lodge has achieved that rare perfect balance between rustic wilderness and modern day comforts and amenities. Many of the people I talked to at the lodge were repeat visitors, returning for annual pilgrimages to the place they love best. Recommendations just don't get any better than that!

Getting There and Practicalities

If You Go In Winter
Take very warm clothing. You can't over do this. When I asked owner Bruce Kerfoot what this California resident should bring as far as clothing, his good natured response was "Bring whatever you have and we'll laugh at you anyway."

The lodge does have heavy muk-luk boots and heavy duty mittens for sale or rent if your winter gear isn't quite as heavy duty as the Minnesota winters. I also highly recommend the inexpensive, disposable hand warmers that are available. These godsend of an invention lasts for hours and will keep your toes and fingers toasty even in the bitterest of cold.

Also, don't forget sunglasses or goggles as the glare off the snow can be blinding.

For more information on Gunflint Lodge call 218-388-2294, FAX 218-388-9429 or write Gunflint Lodge
750 Gunflint Trails
Grand Marais, MN 55604 For reservations call 800-328-3325 (US).

You can also click here to visit the Gunflint Lodge web site!