Dining at LeCirque 2000 in New York City -

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Dining at LeCirque 2000 in New York City

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By Clint Brownfield

Posted August 6th, 2007

FabulousFoods.com Recommends: Hungry? New York City: The Lowdown on Where the Real People Eat! (Hungry? City Guides) (Hungry? City Guides), by , (2007, Hungry City Guides)

Hungry? New York City: The Lowdown on Where the Real People Eat! (Hungry? City Guides) (Hungry? City Guides)

Le Cirque 2000
455 Madison Avenue
New York, NY 10022
Reservations: 212 794-9292

In the Richard Strauss opera Ariadne auf Naxos a pretentious noveau riche man has commissioned an opera to entertain his guests after dinner. Unbeknownst to the young composer, a troupe of circus of clowns is to perform immediately after the opera. But, before the composer can tear out his hair, matters get even dicier when the majordomo informs him that, in order to save time, the two are to be performed simultaneously. And the show(s) goes on.

To me, this is what life must be like for the legendary Sirio Maccioni, who has owned and operated Le Cirque for the past 25 years. Simply put, there is no restaurant in New York that even comes close to this blend of grand opera, circus and gastronomic achievement. It's the most breathtaking high-wire act in Manhattan.

Reborn a couple of years ago as Le Cirque 2000 in the south wing of the landmark Villard Houses across Madison Avenue from St. Patrick's Cathedral, the restaurant is also affiliated with the elegant New York Palace Hotel which hovers above. Guests in the hotel have the option of dining at Le Cirque 2000 or ordering up a few goodies via what must be the most impressive room service on the face of the earth.

The interiors of the Villard Houses are historic landmarks themselves. The words rococo, extravagant, de luxe and over-the-top somehow don't seem quite adequate to describe these rooms. But, this is only the backdrop for Le Cirque 2000. Wanting to create a truly unique space for the new millenium, Mr. Maccioni commissioned world-famed restaurant designer Adam Tihany to add a 21st century look to the already unbelievable 19th century interiors.

And, what he came up astounds: swirling, towering, sculptural lighting; a color scheme worthy of the brightest circus in the world; and unique dining furniture that allows for the biggest sport at Le Cirque...people watching.

At lunch, or dinner, it's difficult to keep your eyes from boinging right out of your head. There IS Henry Kissinger, there IS Si Newhouse, there IS Liz Smith, there IS The Donald. Meanwhile, the clamor going upstairs to one of the highly sought after function rooms could be the president of the United States; who'll spend the next hour or so drumming up money for the Democrats.

But, the food...
But, then, wham...there it is...your first bite of Le Cirque food. If you are a fan of foie gras, then you may just join one of the lighting fixtures in a spiraling orbit of joy. Simply seared in Armanac, roasted whole with figs or served in a terrine...this most simply elegant ingredient becomes manna from heaven. Only heaven in this case is the Le Cirque 2000 kitchen; run by Executive Chef Sottha Khunn.

Chef Khunn has been with Le Cirque since 1985 and became executive chef of Le Cirque 2000 from its inception. Born in Asia and trained in France, his food has an Asian note here and there with classic French and Italian techniques as the base. And, it's not as fattening as one might expect. Some of the most glamorous women in the world dine here regularly and they don't exactly summon up the word "beefy".

The Desserts...
But there are some pitfalls along the diet trail; most notably the desserts of famed pastry chef Jacques Torres. His swirling, hot/frozen/warm/chilled, creations are famous the world over. The "chocolate stove" alone has delighted kids of all ages for years. It literally is a miniature chocolate stove, with chocolate pans containing sauces to pour over the wonderful cake inside. But, most of the stoves are carefully wrapped up and taken home, to be admired until they turn into high-class ant farms.

Lunch at Le Cirque does break the mold of the usual "Out to Lunch" parameters: lunch under $10, a stroll around the neighborhood and dessert at another place. But, during this holiday season, and on into the new millenium, treat yourself to lunch at Le Cirque. And, even at the prix fixe price I think you will agree that all this is indeed a bargain.

A recent fall prix fixe menu offered the following:

Carrot terrine with young mixed greens and tomato coulis, or soup of the day
Grilled grouper filet with mustard crust, cranberry beans and baby sweet pepper confit, or
Pasta of the day, or
Fricassee of chicken with ginger
Pear tart with vanilla ice cream

Of course, there are many other tempting treats that may be ordered a la carte. And, many regular customers order "off the menu"...no problem. Chef Sottha loves a challenge.

Insider Tip
One time I went to lunch with my best friend...a nice enough guy...it was his birthday. We got a nice table along side the wall next to the main door. Then, another time, I took a gorgeous girl. We got a table in the middle of THE room. And, I could tell from the look on his face, that THE Donald was envious.

Please, stick with me, because I'm Out to Lunch in New York.

Clint Brownfield

Clint Brownfield is a globetrotting food and travel journalist who resides in New York City when between adventures. Among other publications, his work has been seen in Working Mother and Woman's Day