If you fly much in Asia, I've no doubt that you'll eventually wind up at Bangkok's Don Muang International Airport. You really can't avoid Don Muang, for Bangkok has become one of the busiest aerial crossroads in Asia--not to mention the world.

When you fly into Don Muang you might be planning to spend some time in Thailand, or you might simply be connecting from one plane to another. Regardless, Don Muang is a modern, fully equipped airport ready to serve your every need.

The airport is so well equipped, in fact, that when I stayed with friends who lived near the terminal complex, we tended to use it as a sort of glorified shopping mall. We could get up-to-date foreign magazines and the Bangkok Post (one of Asia's finer English-language newspapers); we could use the highly reliable 24-hour post office or change any of two-dozen currencies at the bank. We could catch trains heading into Bangkok or up into Northern Thailand; we could get a cab or leap aboard a bus bound for virtually anywhere in the Bangkok area.

One thing we could not often do, however, was eat or drink. Even though the newer of the two international terminals offers a Pizza Hut, a Swenson's Ice Cream, a Burger King, and an English-style pub, prices have risen to the extortionate level typical of all major international airports.

If you arrive at Don Muang and have to wait for a connecting flight, you can keep cool in the air-conditioned terminals and find plenty to keep you entertained. Check out the free newspapers in the departure halls; people-watch one of the world's most international crowds. Sip on a Singha beer. Stretch out if you like; the airport police are used to bizarre farang (foreigner) behavior and will let you sleep undisturbed.

If you arrive at Don Muang and plan to head into Bangkok, take a cab into the city. A cab is hassle-free and comfortable; it takes you directly to your destination. It is true that a public bus into Bangkok will cost between fifteen and fifty cents whereas a taxi will run you more than ten dollars. But Thai busses are erratic, whimsical machines; they make sudden detours, or halt mid-route, or veer off on entirely new routes altogether. They are hot and crowded; they stink of exhaust fumes and are a wild ride. Taking public transportation is certainly part of the Thai experience and not to be missed, but don't attempt it when you first arrive, jet-lagged and burdened with your baggage. Go to the airport taxi desk and arrange a cab into the city instead. You'll probably still get stuck in a three hour traffic jam, but at least you'll have an air conditioned seat.

Don Muang train station lies across the highway from the airport and I found it a cheap way to avoid Bangkok's endemic traffic jams. But once again, don't attempt this when you first arrive. It's a hot and sweaty walk to the station, a hot and sweaty wait for the train, and a hot and sweaty ride downtown. Not to mention that there are no hotels convenient to Bangkok's central station. Do yourself a favor: take the taxi. (see additional note)

If you need to spend the night and catch a flight the next day, a skywalk conveniently connects the airport terminal to the Amari Airport Hotel. If you're like most travellers, however, you'll balk at the Amari's luxury rates and head into the city instead. (Those with some time between flights might consider the Amari's three-hour "Ministay" rates for $25.00).

If you want a cheap place to stay, go to Khao San Road. This budget traveler area offers literally hundreds of gusthouses. For more upscale accomodations try the Surawong Road area. The inconvenience of journeying into the city center for a hotel room will be balanced out by the fact that you won't need a visa for your layover: Americans receive 30 day tourist visas uopn arrival in Thailand.

Should you be stuck at the airport with a few hours to kill, cross the pedestrian walkway over the highway into the town of Don Muang. The walkway offers a commanding view of the eight-lane highway, which is invariably jammed with bumper-to-bumper traffic stretching into a horizon of smog. At the base of the staircase lies a covered market built on a trash-filled swamp. Some of the more poorly-paid airport employees eat here. Beware of the drains filled with fetid grey water and watch out for the motorcycle taxis - they tend to pick up passengers inside the market building.

The town itself is dusty, hot and choking with traffic like a sort of mini-Bangkok. A must-see if you don't plan to actually visit the city itself. I've spent a great deal of time in Don Muang International Airport; among airports it has become my sentimental favorite. Each time I land there I feel like I'm reuniting with an old friend. Don Muang International has gotten all of my visits to Thailand off to a fine start; it cannot help but do the same for your trip as well.

IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL Information! -- Reader Gerri Brightwell who lives in Thailand wrote with the following additional information:

" Having read Steven Bailey's pieceon Don Muang Airport, I wanted to add a piece of new information: travellers can now take an air-conditioned bus downtown. It's $70B and goes from the airport to various downtown locations, and does not stop on route to pick up more customers, so it does not get over-crowded. It also has a luggage area for suitcases and backpacks, and overall makes a much cheaper alternative to a taxi, especially given that the airport taxi drivers here in Bangkok are renowned for overcharging."

Be Sure to Also Read: Thailand: A Travel Bargain by Tim Leffel.