Jackson Hole
232 East 64th Street
NY, NY 10021
Phone: (212) 371-7187
Open Daily 10:30am to Midnight
lunch specials M-F
(Editor's Note: Prices have gone up since this article was first written, but it's still a good deal.)

Tradition!
My normal routine in New York is to try to do different things all the time. But, since I got here in 1975, some things in my life just don't seem to change. I've had my hair cut (what's left of it) by the same guys, at the same barber shop, for nearly 25 years...Paul Mole, at 74th and Lexington Avenue. During that time, I've also lived in the same brownstone...on Madison Avenue, in the 60's. And, for nearly 25 years, I've had at least one Baldouni Burger (TM), every month, at Jackson Hole...Home of the 7ounces Burger!

And, this, dear reader, is one of my presents to you during the upcoming gift-giving season: My secret New York Hamburger Heaven. Jackson Hole!

So, if I'm into doing different things all the time...then why have I gone to the same place every month...for nearly 25 years? Well, I go to all types of other places each month too...pastrami places, Chinese places, Sushi places, pizza places, BBQ places etc. So there is a variety in the sameness. But, I feel each of these places serves me the "best of the best". The thing that brings me back to Jackson Hole each time is, oddly enough, the same thing...the Baldouni Burger(TM)! My all time favorite burger! For me...the best! Call it a tradition!

There are probably a hundred things on the lunch (or dinner) menu at Jackson Hole (you can even just have a salad); most of them offspring of the same immaculately kept grill, that has been the mainstay of the restaurant since 1972.

The Baldouni Burger(TM), one of the world's true bargains at $6.65, starts with choice ground beef (the exact fat-to-lean-meat ratio is a trade secret) that has never been frozen. As the meat sizzles on the hot grill it is also steamed under its own stainless steel dome. Cheese is added and melts into the burger as it cooks and steams. The Baldouni is served with a combination of fresh grilled onions and mushrooms (real ones...not canned), open-faced, on a regular white hamburger bun.

And, Good For You Too!
When Marty, my favorite waitress in the world, places one of these babies in front of me, I couldn't care less if I ever have another white truffle again, ever. Now, here comes a suggested variation. I like to try to alternate between a side of French fries one time...and an order of deep-fried onion rings the next. And, just to be on the safe side, I always drink a large diet Coke with my meal.

My current theory (and this is another gift to you, dear reader) is that the onion rings are so much lower in calories than the French fries...that I could actually be reducing while eating the Baldouni Burger(TM). Plus...and this is a huge plus... every time you sit down at a table, or at the counter, at Jackson Hole, you are presented with a complimentary bowl of the best pickles on the face of the earth! From the Eagle Pickle Company over in Brooklyn. There are two kinds of pickles; my favorite...the half-sour and the other kind...sour. I have deep respect for people who can eat the sour ones. For me, the half-sour are the best...they have a nice snap, aren't too salty...and no matter what...these little gems are green vegetables. And what do green vegetables mean? A clean colon! Another gift to you this holiday season...a clean colon...simply by having a cheese burger at Jackson Hole...with a healthy serving of half-sour pickles.

And, all of this is encouraged, aided, and abetted by Marty, my favorite waitress (I just can't call her a "wait person"...sorry Gloria) in all of New York City. She's always there to hear your life-story (no matter how boring) or can sense when you just want to be left alone with your newspaper. She's one of those "Edward Hopper Moments" that happen in New York; you've seen her for years, don't know much about her...but love her dearly.

In The Beginning...
James Meskouris and his brother Chris started Jackson Hole, which now has seven other branches in and around New York City, in 1972. The first location is the one I like the best; it's on 64th St. between 2nd and 3rd Avenues. It's also the closest one to my house. In the early '70's, when Jim and Chris were cleaning out the townhouse that would eventually become the restaurant, they came across an old copy of a National Geographic magazine. All they could make out was part of a story on Jackson Hole, Wyoming. They lived in Jackson Heights, Queens, then and thought, "What the heck...Jackson Hole...Jackson Heights"? They named the place Jackson Hole and a legend was born...the home of the best hamburgers in New York. All served amidst the best collection of old cowboy movie posters and antiques of all types...hung all over the walls and ceilings. Brother Jim is the collector in the duo.

In the summer, there is a nice little garden out back with seating for about 20. And there is plenty of room on the second floor for parties and functions. In fact, Jackson Hole, Wyoming has actually used the space down through the years for functions to familiarize travel writers and agents with the glories of Jackson Hole as a travel destination. They do a hefty take-out and delivery business too.

So, there you have it, the best hamburgers in the world. One of my resolutions for 1999 is to finally try one of their turkey burgers. Chris and Marty tell me they are wonderful. They haven't steered me wrong during the last 25 years...so I'm going to break with tradition and give the turkey burger a whirl.

Walking Off Those Baldounies

Abigail Adams Smith Museum and Gardens
421 East 61st St.
New York, NY 10021
Phone: (212) 838-6878
Admission: $3, $2 for students and seniors

Stroll, or hoist yourself up and out the front door of Jackson Hole, turn right and meander on over to what is now being referred to as Manhattan's secret little gem of a house museum: The Abigail Adams Smith Museum and Garden. Owned and operated since 1924 by the Colonial Dames of America (descendents of the movers and shakers in the Colonies before the Revolutionary War), the house has been frozen in the time of the 1820's, as the Mount Vernon Hotel.

Day hotels dotted Manhattan especially along the East River during the early and mid 19th century and members of the growing middle class would could take ferries up the river or carriages to the "country" and spend the day eating, drinking and "bathing" in the river. In the 1820's one didn't just jump in the river with a bikini on. Then they would then drive back to their homes in the evenings...rarely actually spending the night.

The house, built in 1799, was actually the stable/carriage house that was to be part of a grand estate to be called "Mount Vernon on the East River", planned by Abigail Adams Smith and her husband, Colonel William Stephens Smith. William wasn't the best businessman in the world and ran out of money, lost the estate and finally wound up in jail. He died in his early 40's, and poor Abigail (daughter of the president) also left this life just a couple of years earlier.

The house was recently beautifully redone (in part with money from the Vincent Astor Foundation) and is now presented as what the hotel would have looked like in the 1820's. The downstairs is where the men would have drunk and eaten and played cards. The ladies stayed upstairs in a gorgeous parlor, where they could enjoy 1820 girl-type things. Apparently lots of needlework kept those hands from falling idle and becoming the devil's workshop.

Today, from its perch above the East River, it's amazing to realize that the place...now a stone's throw from Bloomingdales...was once in the country. The museum and its gardens are open daily (except Mondays) from 11-4pm, and knowledgeable docents show small groups through the house/hotel and the beautiful gardens in the back. While out back, gaze up at the top of the gable and you will see "1799" created out of bricks and worked into the beautiful Manhattan schist that was used to build the structure.

Home for the Holidays

This holiday season, in the late afternoon and evenings of Dec. 17, 18, and 19, candlelight tours of the house will be offered; including refreshments and live music of the period. Last minute stocking-stuffers may be found in the well-stocked gift shop.

Continue on for a Holly Jolly Christmas

Serendipity III
225 East 60th Street
New York, NY 10022
Phone: 838-3531
Open Daily 10:30am-1: 00am (midnight on Sundays)

After the Abigail Adams Smith House museum...you will have undoubtedly worked up a thirst and your sweet tooth will be throbbing to beat the band. So, dear reader...here's another big present...another tradition for me...dessert and coffee at Serendipity 3...a true original, and a New York treasure.

Founded in 1954 by Stephen Bruce and his two partners, Calvin Holt and Preston "Patch" Caradine (the Serendipity 3), the place caught on like wildfire and hasn't stopped since. Part general store (but not one remotely like the one your grandmother traded at) and part restaurant, soda fountain and coffeehouse; this place has been packing them ever since. The guys knew something was going right when people like Cary Grant, Grace Kelly, Marilyn Monroe and Jackie Kennedy started showing up. And, being the kind souls that they were, they let a young artist pay his bills with his drawings...his name was Andy Warhol. Serendipity 3 literally became his first "factory"; launching two of his books: "There Are Fairies In The Bottom Of My Garden" and "35 Cats Named Sam & One Blue Pussy".

Another serendipitous piece of great luck arrived early on...in the person of James Beard...God of all Foods. He advised the guys on their menu, and the restaurant began to serve omelets at lunch (unheard of at that time), carrot juice (another first) and a list of great and funny-named things like Cleopatra's Barge, Apricot Smush and High Heel Pump featuring Black Forest ham on (what else?), Pumpernickel.

And, perhaps the most famous treat in New York has been served from the beginning: Frrrozsen Hot Chocolate. It's a huge, icy, confection served in a giant goblet, with shaved chocolate and a big serving of whipped cream and a cherry on the top. Kids of all ages go nuts over this one. And, now you can buy your own Frrrozsen Hot Chocolate kit in the store ($20. $3.95 for refills), or by mail or phone (see numbers above). Also, Serendipity 3, is probably the only place in Manhattan where you can order a foot-long chilidog...with everything on it.

In addition to the novel and great tasting food and drinks (Serendipity 3 can sell no alcoholic beverages since it's just across the street from a church), the other unique thing about the place is that nearly everything around you is for sale. Your table, the Tiffany lamp over your head, the antiques that hang from the walls and ceilings and, even the waiters and waitresses are all available (just kidding!). The cases and racks up front feature this year's holiday gift-giving treats.

How about Rhinestone earrings shaped like little frrrozsen hot chocolates? Or, how about: "Boyfriend in a Box"? For only $12.50 you get a framed picture of a handsome man, a love letter from him, and a number of other things to have strewn around your apartment to convince your mother that you have a boyfriend.

The classic "Serendipity 3" cookbook is also available for $14.95...a steal. And, for or all your Catholic School friends, $6 can buy a wind-up toy in the shape of a nun that shoots fire out of her mouth as she strides forward. And, finally, there are Christmas stockings for the mantle ($125). These are fur- topped, thigh-high stockings, in red, black or leopard satin, feature six-inch stiletto heels. Santa will definitely know your mantle is not like your Grandma's.

These are just a few of the treats that await at Serendipity 3. After all, chance-discovery is what serendipity means in the first place. The current focal point in the downstairs dining room is this year's Christmas Tree...decorated from head to toe in white ostrich plumes. Just like your Grandmother's tree...if your Grandmother were Sally Rand.

So, there you go dear reader. Have a safe and happy holiday and, stick with me, because I'm Out to Lunch in New York.

Clint Brownfield