SAN ANTONION, TEXAS, USA -- San Antonio is a city of enjoyable sights, sounds and sensations, and while taking in the Riverwalk or any of the many museums, historical sites and cultural attractions, invariably the energy used in exploring this unique bit of Texas will be expended, leading to the urge to eat. However, finding a good restaurant when you are a stranger in a strange land is really not that hard--you only have to remember the old saying, "When in Rome..."

I did exactly that on a visit to San Antonio, asking three locals where they liked to eat. Of course, they all had more than one favorite, but one pick that made the list of all three was Mi Tierra Cafe and Bakery.

Mi Tierra was started by Pete and Cruz Cortez in 1941 as a small, three-table cafe to serve farmers and workers at San Antonio's Market Place (El Mercado). Through the years, the Cortez family obviously melded the right combination of Tex-Mex cuisine and Southwest hospitality because it has grown into a destination for locals as well as tourists that is now a 500-plus-seat restaurant open 24 hours a day.

The interior of Mi Tierra could be interpreted as a metaphor for the meal that awaits--almost overwhelming. Mi Tierra is a cacophony of colors from banners, fiesta flags, pinatas, sombreros and los trovadores, wandering musicians ready to play a tune right at your table. Then, there are the lights. Ever wonder where all the Christmas lights that aren't bought during the Yuletide season go? Mi Tierra is my guess because the restaurant is festooned with thousands of colorful lights, creating an instant party atmosphere.

More color emanates from the vivid murals on the walls, and one in particular in the back dining room depicts early Tejano life, famous Mexicans and loyal employees. That's right--along side Emiliano Zapata and Pancho Villa are employees who have 20 years or more of service at Mi Tierra.

Be sure to also check out Mi Tierra's bar, not only for the fabulous margaritas and frosty beers but also for the bar itself--an elegant piece of baroque art that incorporates many Aztec, Mayan and Mexican symbols into the intricate oak woodwork.

The most important meal of the day, breakfast, can be an impressive and extremely filling treat at Mi Tierra. The Steak and Eggs platter sounds simple enough, but it is a dish consisting of a grilled cube steak and two eggs topped with a tasty ranchero sauce and served with refried beans and tortillas. A local favorite is Chilaquiles Famosos, which is crisp corn tortilla strips scrambled in eggs topped with ranchero sauce and cheddar cheese, and also served with refried beans and tortillas. And just how do you feed a hungry man (or woman)? Order up the Mi Tierra Special Breakfast. This is an early-rise feast consisting of two eggs any style, refried beans and tortillas with the choice of either Carne de Res Guisada (tender beef tips sautéed in tomatoes and peppers) or Carne de Puerco (savory pork tips in a rich red sauce).

The lunch and dinner offerings (which are the same) continue the memorable culinary experience. Chile Rellenos, Queso Flameado, Tacos del Mercado, Huevos Rancheros, Menudo, Chile con Queso--it is obvious that the "o's" have it at this delectable restaurant. While having lunch at Mi Tierra, I enjoyed tasty Quesadillas de Pollo which were filled with grilled chicken and complemented quite well with guacamole and a Mexican relish called pico de gallo, while a buddy of mine, a native of Mexico, feeling that he didn't get on top of the food chain for nothing, went straight for an al carbon presentation of Steak a la Tampiquena, a charbroiled rib-eye steak with chicken enchilada topped with a green tomatillo sauce, guacamole, Spanish rice and refried beans. Quite a meal, but my pal cleaned his plate.

If there is any room for dessert, Mi Tierra's bakery offers an almost overwhelming selection of over 50 varieties of Mexican candies and sweet rolls. My personal favorites were Cremas de Fresa, a tasty pastry filled with cream cheese and strawberries, and a cinnamon cookie called Galleta de Canela, but an inside tip told me to check out either the Margarita Key Lime Pie or the Ricardo sweet bread next time.

And there certainly will be a next time. There is just too much to see and do in San Antonio in just one trip, while at Mi Tierra, well, I might not ever make it through the whole menu, but, boy, will I have fun trying!

Practicalities

Mi Tierra is located at 218 Produce Row next to El Mercado, touted to be the largest Mexican marketplace outside of Mexico, which is a good place to walk off a big meal. Breakfast is served 24 hours a day, while lunch and dinner entrees start at 11 a.m. For more information, either call (210) 225-1262 or visit Mi Tierra's web site at: www.mitierracafe.com.

In the Nearby Area:

• Biking the San Antonio Mission Trail
• "Kidding" Around San Antonio, Texas
  
  

  L.A. Jackson is a freelance writer based in Raleigh, North Carolina. When he's not having adventures like this one, LA specializes in gardening.