IMPORTANT NOTE: Unfortunately, La Boucane is no more, Jacques Mokrani retired in early 2005. We keep the article here for the archives sake. Cheri

It is hardly a secret that the Napa Valley is home to some of the world's finest wineries. And it also no secret that the presence of those wineries have attracted some of the world's finest chefs and likewise some of the finest restaurants to the area. What is somewhat of a secret is that one of the best of the best restaurants is a little place, in the town of Napa proper, called La Boucane.

Nestled in a cozy old Victorian home, on a quiet side street that you could easily overlook, La Boucane serves some of the finest traditional French cuisine you're likely to find anywhere. The food is outstanding, that's to be expected. But La Boucane is a find for another, equally important reason, its chef/proprietor Jacques Mokrani.

Mokrani is, to say the least, a character. He runs his establishment in a very hands on manner. He greets you at the door, shows you to your table, takes your order, apparently goes in the back and prepares it, then returns to serve it. All of which is accomplished amidst witty banter, off the cuff cooking lessons and stories that would make Ulysses' tales of adventure pale in comparison.

I have to admit that even if the food at La Boucane was lousy (which it is not) I would come back just to listen to Jacques. He provides the personality and heart that so many other restaurants lack. La Boucane has a stable of loyal customers. It reminds me, in feel, of the restaurant where Olympia Dukakis went for her dinners in Moonstruck. No one is ever a stranger at La Boucane.

Jacques Mokrani physically resembles Anthony Quinn and he also shares the actor's charisma and sex appeal. A self proclaimed hedonist (no wonder I liked this man), he is confidant, almost bordering on arrogant, but never offensively so. While he is opinionated, he has the knowledge and experience to back those opinions. His eyes twinkle and a smile is never far from his lips. His personality and presence are so strong that my dinner companion jumped up in the middle of the meal and said "I just have to give you a hug!" (Okay, Jan can be a little over zealous at times, but I have to admit I felt the same way, even if I didn't have the guts to act upon it).

After spending an evening at La Boucane you get the feeling there is nothing its proprietor can't do or for that matter, hasn't done. Originally from Algeria, he has traveled around the world six times, speaks eight languages plus a smattering of others. Jacques has cooked in fine restaurants as well as on ships and in the oil fields of Saudi Arabia. There he had four kitchens going simultaneously, catering to the tastes of the Arabs, the Americans, the Europeans and the Argentineans who worked there. He has an intimate knowledge of a vast array of ingredients and he knows exactly how to best use them.

La Boucane's dishes are simple, clean and elegant. Mokrani is not into nouvelle cuisine or any of that "architectural stuff" and he's not afraid to tell you so. "You don't know where to start with that kind of food", he says, "mix flavors in your mouth, not on the plate."

While I have to admit, I often like the aforementioned cuisines, La Boucane was a well needed break from the Nouvelle Cuisine overload that one can experience in the Napa Valley region.

A Religious Experience

While everything we had at La Boucane was outstanding, I would especially recommend the Chilean Seabass Bretonne, which was a little crunchy with an exquisite rich sauce. The prawns, which were deglazed in cognac with tomatoes and garlic were also excellent.

Mokrani's opinions extend to his wine list. He sells only wines that are perfectly matched to his food. For instance he chose a 1995 Beaucanon Merlot to serve along with his excellent lamb. A perfect choice. His comment on chardonnay, the yuppie wine of choice? "Too many chardonnays have so much oak, you'd have to be a termite to enjoy them." I agree.

One thing La Boucane lacks is pastry, but trust me, you won't miss it. There is a delicious selection of desserts to top off your meal. We had the special dessert of the evening, a raspberry soufflé. "It's like eating a raspberry cloud", exclaimed my delighted dinner companion. Mokrani explained that "a soufflé has a lot in common with a baby, when it's ready to come out, it can't wait!"

He knew exactly when to take his soufflé out. It was perfect as was everything at La Boucane. So remember, next time you're in the Napa Valley area, you now know its best kept secret.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Unfortunately, La Boucane is no more, Jacques Mokrani retired in early 2005. We keep the article here for the archives sake. Cheri

Recipe from La Boucane

• Scallops In Champagne Sauce