SANTA MONICA, CALIFORNIA -- Guests staying at Santa Monica's tony beachfront Le Merigot Hotel are extra lucky. Besides calling one of the most stylish lodgings in the city home, they're in walking distance of many of Santa Monica's attractions like the Santa Monica Pier and the Third Street Promenade. This pet friendly property also caters to pooches so guests also get to bring their best friend along. But the thing that makes guests of Le Merigot most lucky is that fact that one of Los Angeles' best restaurants, and best kept restaurant secrets, resides right in the building.

Perhaps it's because this culinary pearl is tucked inside the oyster shell of a hotel lobby (let's face it, most hotel restaurants are not known for outstanding quality or innovative cuisine) that Los Angeles' foodie community has yet to discover Cezanne. But whether you find this restaurant via your Santa Monica lodgings or whether you make a special pilgrimage to feast on chef Desi Szonntaugh's outstanding fare, expertly paired with just the right wine by sommelier George Skorka, your taste buds will be well rewarded by a visit to Cezanne.

The menu, like the hotel's clientele, is eclectic, pulling from many of the world's culinary corners. But whether he's preparing fresh California cuisine, Asian influenced seafood like Spicy Ahi Tuna Tartare with Avocado or classic meat dishes like Morrocan Rack of Lamb or Broiled Veal Chops with Wild Mushrooms and Polenta, Szonntaugh's menu represents a perfect balance of flavors.

Desi and sous chef Robert Harrison cook without ego, allowing the true essence of quality ingredients to be the star. Nothing is over seasoned or over sauced, but rather each dish exhibits precisely the right balance to create a subtle and sublime flavor meld. A perfect example of this simplicity in action is a salad of lightly grilled thinly sliced zucchini with heirloom tomatoes, basil, goat cheese and just the right amount of low key vinaigrette to tie it all together. The resulting dish is a spectacular amalgamation of taste that turns humble zucchini into a lasting and memorable experience.

Wine Lovers Love Cezanne

The restaurant has a more than respectable wine list no matter when you visit, but go on a Friday or Saturday evening for Cezanne's "Vintner Dinners" and you'll not only drink some great wines, expertly paired with Chef Desi's food, you'll learn a lot about wine and be entertained in the process. That's because sommelier George Skorka is at the helm, and that means the fun is about to begin and whether a neophyte or an experienced oenophile, you're about to embark on an exciting wine adventure.

Skorka is passionate and enthusiastic about his subject. Show any interest at all and he'll be off on a fascinating yarn about the wines you are drinking, the places they come from, the people who make them and what makes it all so special (don't worry, he also knows when to back off when you want privacy). George is a virtual walking encyclopedia of wine, but his impish sense of humor and sparkling personality make it fun and accessible - even to those who know nothing about wine.

George Skorka and Desi Szonntaugh have been friends for years and they have worked together at several of Los Angeles' best hotels and restaurants (if you want to get either one of them animated, ask about the Christmas Day when the two worked at Shutters on the Beach and the restaurant was, shall we say, overbooked).

This lasting friendship makes for a working relationship that benefits Cezanne's patrons. George knows Desi's food so well, not to mention the way he cooks in general, that he always knows precisely the right wine to show off his friend's culinary handiwork. For instance, the Tuscan white wine (Falchini Vernaccia for those keeping score) George paired with Desi's duck spring rolls merged with the flavors of the dish, creating a complex celebration of flavors with a long, satisfying finish.

For an adventurous gustatory experience, ask the Chef to make a special tasting menu and let George choose the wines. You won't be disappointed and since Desi stresses fresh organic ingredients in his cooking, you'll always get the best market has to offer that day.

Service at Cezanne is impeccable - comprehensive and caring but never intrusive. George and Desi say it's because the staff - from the chef down to the busboys - all work as a team to ensure a flawless experience for the guests. Live piano music creates an elegant and romantic soundtrack to complement the cuisine, and despite the large room size, the design and décor somehow make it seem intimate, romantic and private.

So next time you want to have a special meal that will live long in your memory, head to the Le Merigot and Cezanne. Before the rest of Los Angeles discovers it.

Practicalities

Cezanne and Le Merigot, A JW Marriott Beach Hotel & Spa, are located at 1740 Ocean Avenue Santa Monica, CA 90401. Call 310.395.9700 or visit www.lemerigothotel.com.

Be Sure to Also Check Out:

• Online Cooking Tutorial with Chef Desi Szonntaugh -- Sea Bass with Vegetable Ragout

More great Los Angeles Restaurants:

• Windows -- Los Angeles' Room with a View
• Rita Flora -- Great Los Angeles Dining at Bargain Prices
  .
  
  

  Cheri Sicard, in addition to being the editor of FabulousTravel.com and its sister site, Fabulous Foods.com is the author of The Great American Handbook: What You Can Do For Your Country Today and Every Day and The Low Carb Restaurant Guide, and the co-author of US Citizenship for Dummies. To learn more about Cheri, click here.