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By Cheryl Alters Jamison & Bill Jamison
Arizona California In Calistoga, Catahoula has more limited hours but offers Jan Birnbaum's seductive poached eggs on soft, sexy grits with sauce piquant. Los Angeles La Brea Bakery/Campanile -- Some of the best breads, scones, muffins, and other pastries you'll find in the country, created by Nancy Silverton and staff. Sophisticated yet homey, it's a great way to start a California day. Just as quintessentially LA, in a whole different spirit is Guelaguetza in Koreatown, a pocito fiesta on your plate. Santa Monica's big, bright Broadway Deli offers blintzes stuffed with real hoop cheese and the charming childhood favorite, buttery egg-in-the-hole made with challah. San Francisco Ella's -- This attractive neighborhood café in Presidio Heights offers creamy chicken hash, Cheddar-topped fried cornmeal mush, slabs of warm toast, and imaginative breakfast beverages such as gingered blood orange punch, all with abundant good cheer. Italian-American North Beach serves up the coffee and pastry scene, perhaps most intriguingly at Caffé Greco. Swedish pancakes at Sears Fine Foods remain an institution, still popular in their fifth decade.
Florida Tampa -- On Florida's other side, in all respects, is Skyway Jack's. Chockfull of bric-a-brac, this homey spot features all the morning favorites and a few surprises. Near the water's edge, local seafood nearly jumps onto the plate. The SOS, with sausage replacing chipped beef, will shame most versions. Louisiana Massachusetts Boston, Henrietta's Table -- Where the elite meet to eat in Cambridge's Charles Hotel. Skip the baby-food-like red flannel hash and go straight to the creamed chipped beef on biscuits. Power breakfast to be sure, but in charming, genteel surroundings. New Mexico Santa Fe, Pasqual's -- Katherine Kagel's spirited downtown café is sunshine on a plate. Her griddled polenta with house-made chorizo, corn, and red chile sauce, is so good we included it in the book, Real American Breakfast, word-for-word. The granola, home fries, char-grilled trout, and pancakes will keep you coming back for more too. Cheerful Tecolote Café offers up fantastic omelets with fiery green chile sauce or blue corn-pine nut pancakes. Some days, though, only the breakfast burrito (have it "green" stuffed with bacon and potatoes) at Tia Sophia's will do. If you're in a rush, try the drive-through window at La Bell's where locals stop by for a burrito stuffed with red chile and chicharrones, fried pork rinds like you never had them. New York, Barney Greengrass --A family-owned Upper West Side deli period piece, with vinyl chairs and Formica tables. Have eggs with nova and onions or the silky smoked sturgeon. If you're anywhere near the Lower East Side, and want something to go, stop in at Russ and Daughters for superb smoked fish and a bagel. No tables there. Pennsylvania Philadelphia, Treetops Restaurant -- Those treetops out the window frame Rittenhouse Square, City Center's most desirable address. Upstairs in the Rittenhouse Hotel, the fashionable restaurant could coast on good looks alone, but serves up the best scrapple in the area and a perfectly-proportioned Lancaster farmer's omelet with leeks and bacon and fried potatoes. Tennessee Nashville, Loveless Café -- Salty, smoky country ham slices, biscuits, grits, gravy, and homemade jam-a big taste of Southern heaven. Tucked alongside the old highway just far enough out of town that you'll think you missed it. Texas Austin's Chez Zee is a spirited family-style café with the best baked-French toast we've ever devoured. A custardy slab, made with house-baked bread, will hold you all day. A real charmer. You'll likely find the "Austin Powers," President Dubya's political brokers, downtown at the elegant Driskill Hotel, where the food now matches the diners in importance. El Paso, H & H Car Wash -- Watch the city's best cars get shiny-bright while you feast on a picadillo plate. You ain't seen nothin' like this place before. Houston, Irma's -- Irma Galvan's happy little eatery tucked downtown near the new ballpark for breakfast tacos, chilequiles, and huevos rancheros. Wash it all down with her breakfast lemonade.
Seattle, Hi-Spot Café -- A converted commodious Victorian in the Madrona neighborhood where we like egg dishes like baked eggs with cream, curried Bengal Benedict, and pesto-laced Green Eggs 'n' Ham, along with raspberry hazelnut scones. When you want something lighter, or maybe just an espresso to get you perking, head to B & O Espresso, one of "latté land's" oldest coffee houses. For real seafaring atmosphere, check out The Athenian Inn, a true period piece in the heart of Pike Place Market. The kedgeree, clam hash, eggs goldenrod, and blueberry pancakes are decent renditions, but we uncharacteristically forgive a few flaws in food quality for swashbuckling waterside character holding out in the midst of overpowering gentrification. Wisconsin Osseo, Norske Nook -- Indulge in a little American heritage, and have pie for breakfast. Apple's the old American morning meal, but we have to sink our forks into at least one slice of sour cream-raisin to start the day off right. If it's a summer weekend, don't miss the Dane County Farmers' Market a few hours away in Madison. Get yourself a fragrant muskmelon, and a smoked trout or two, and feast in the shade of the Capitol. Pick up maple syrup or maple sugar for breakfast back home. |
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