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A Bevy of Belgian Beers -- Café Crawling in Brussels and How to Find Lambic Beer In Belgium
By Christopher Kenneally



For further information on traveling in Brussels and throughout Belgium, contact the Belgian Tourist Office, 780 Third Avenue, Suite 1501 New York, NY 10017, tel. 212-758-8130; Visit their web site at www.visitbelgium.com.

Sabena Belgian World Airlines has four U.S. gateways: Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, and New York; for fares and schedule information, call toll-free: 1-800-955-2000; www.sabena.com.

To find the beers served in Brussels cafés as well as many others, you may want to visit the city's arguably best-stocked beer shop, Biéres Artisanales, 174 Chaussée de Wavre, 1050 Brussels. Tel. 512-1788. Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Depending on bottle size and rarity, prices range from 26 BF to 280 BF ($0.74 to $8.00) for a comprehensive selection of Belgian beers.

To learn more about how Belgian beers are made, the Confederation of Belgian Breweries sponsors a quick tour at the Maison des Brasseurs (Brewers' House), 10 Grand' Place, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 511-4987. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Entrance fee includes a tour and beer tasting.

Fans of gueuze and lambic will want to take in the self-guided tour of Musée Bruxellois de la Gueuze (Brussels Gueuze Museum) where Cantillon beers are brewed, 56 Rue Gheude, 1070 Brussels (near Gare du Midi). Tel. 521-4928. Open Weekdays 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Saturdays 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Admission includes a glass of Cantillon beer in the museum's estaminet.

Cafés referred to in this article:

Chez Marcel, 20 Place du Jeu de Balle, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 511-1375. Open daily 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.. An antique/flea market is held on the Place daily from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. L'Etoile d'Or, 30 Rue des Foulons, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 502-6048. Open weekdays noon to 3 p.m., 7 p.m. to midnight; Saturdays 7 p.m. to midnight. Closed Sundays and holidays.

Falstaff, 17-23 Rue Henri Maus, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 511-9877. Open daily noon to 5 a.m.

Mort Subite, 7 Rue Montagne aux Herbes Potagéres, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 513-1318. Open daily 10:30 a.m. to 3 a.m.

Le Perroquet, 31 Rue Watteeu, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 512-9922. Open daily 10:30 a.m. to 1:00 a.m.

Poechenellekelder, 5 Rue du Chêne, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 511-9262. Open daily 10 a.m. to midnight, Fridays and Saturdays until 2 a.m.

In 't Spinnekopke, Place du Jardin aux Fleurs, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 511-8695. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Toone, 21 Petite Rue des Bouchers (Impasse Schuddeveld), 1000 Brussels. Tel. 513-5486. Café open daily noon to midnight. For theatre reservations, tel. 511-7137. Tickets 400 BF ($12.50). Showtime is 8:30 (theatre-goers should note that any reservations are not for "reserved" seats but for general admission only. A line for the best seats usually begins forming a half hour before curtain).

De Ultieme Hallucinatie, 316 Rue Royale, 1210 Brussels. Tel. 217-0614. Café open daily noon to midnight, weekend night until 1 a.m. Restaurant service noon to 2:30 p.m., 6 p.m. to midnight.

Fewer than a dozen Brussels cafes still serve traditional Cantillon beer. They include, however, these top-flight Belgian drinking institutions:

L'Etoile d'Or, 30 Rue des Foulons, 1000 Brussels. Tel. 502-6048. Open weekdays noon to 3 p.m., 7 p.m. to midnight; Saturdays 7 p.m. to midnight. Closed Sundays and holidays.

To search out the roots of the lambic style at its birthplace visit the Boone Brewery, Fonteinstraat 65, Lembeerk, tel. (02) 356-6644, fax. 356-3399; tours are given from May through September on Wednesday afternoons or by appointment.

In nearby Beersel, "De Drie Fonteinen," tel. (02) 331-0652, serves its own gueuze and kriek brews along with hearty traditional Belgian cuisine. Henri Vandervelden's "Brouwerij Museum" is at Laarheidestraat 230, tel. (02) 380-3396.


Christopher Kenneally is the author of The Massachusetts Legacy" and has written articles for The New York Times, Boston Globe, and The Independent in London. As a contributing editor for Escape Magazine, he and Derek Szabo have reported from Northern Ireland, Egypt, South Africa and Uzbekistan. His email address is Wroxman@aol.com.

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