These are among the most common sorts of Belgian beers:

• Lambic: A beer naturally fermented by atmospheric yeasts and other microflora. A straight lambic has little carbonation and, for beer, an unexpected sourness. Fruit flavors are often added, resulting in raspberry-flavored framboise and cherry-flavored kriek (pronounced "creek") beers. Faro is a special, low-alcohol, sometimes sweetened or lightly spiced beer.
• Gueuze (pronounced "gerz"): A blend of young and aged lambic beers, which results in a sweeter drink. The difference between lambic and gueuze is not unlike that between a single malt whiskey and a blend.
• Trappiste: These rich, dark ales are produced only at five Belgian monasteries--Chimay, Orval, Rochefort, Westmalle and Westvleteren. The beers are brewed by monks or under their supervision and according to centuries-old methods.
• Wheat beers: Also called "white beer," these are made with a concentration of wheat as well as barley malts. Wheat beers are generally tart and frothy with a hint of fruit flavors.

Obtaining Belgian Beer in the US

In the U.S., Cantillon lambics are imported by Shelton Broers, 8770 Sunset Drive, Suite 159, Miami, FL 33173, tel. 800-809-7725 or 305-859-8877.

Importers Vanberg & DeWulf bill themselves as "the experts in Belgian beer." Wendy Littlefield and Donald Feinberg, a husband-and-wife team, distribute a collection of 30 Belgian beers from nine breweries including Duvel, Affligem, Boone, Rodenbach, Scaldis and Blanche de Bruges. For information, contact Vanberg & DeWulf, 52 Pioneer Street, Cooperstown, NY 13326, tel. 800-656-1212, fax. 607-547-8374. You can also visit their web site at www.belgianexperts.com or e-mail to info@belgianexperts.com.

Later this year, Littlefield and Feinberg will open a farmstead brewery for the production of traditional Belgian beers in Cooperstown. "The siting of the brewery is particularly appropriate," notes Littlefield. "The area has both a hops history and Belgian connection."

Between 1835 and 1880, Otsego County was the center of hops growing in America. The Belgian connection dates from 1614 when Kleynties, the navigator on Henry Hudson's Dutch East India Company, mapped Otsego Lake and the Susquehanna River for the first time.