Out to Lunch Goes Hawaiian

We stayed in a modest condo in Kihei that happened to have one of the most stunning views we will probably ever see. This is when my Hawaii love affair really kicked in. Each morning we'd have breakfast on our lanai and literally watch mother whales teach their babies how to do tricks in our own little "private" bay. This free show beat anything we'd ever seen on Broadway.

We'd never seen star fruit before, or had fresh mahi mahi. We'd never seen palm trees at Christmas or gotten stalled in traffic on the drive to Hana where passion fruit littered the road. Our trip was our present to each other that year. Our Christmas tree was a huge pineapple on the table on the lanai and we allowed each other $100 to run amok in the Maui Mall and buy as many presents as we could to put under our pineapple. The airport then (Kahului) was an open-air affair with a beautiful tree in the middle...home for a million little birds welcoming each visitor with incredible songs.

I came back to New York, my mother went back to the farm in Missouri, and both of us still cherish that trip...perhaps above all others. I raved about Maui so much to my best friend (and recipe tester) that three years later he, my mother and I, all went to Maui again...stayed in the same condo...and the Maui love affair intensified. I then had to promise myself that I wouldn't return to Maui until I had seen the rest of the Hawaiian Islands.

This past fall...12 years and five other Hawaiian Islands later...I returned to Maui.

Now, before this turns into a sappy Hawaiian version of the Waltons let's get on to more important matters...FOOD!

Hawaii Regional Cuisine (HRC)

But, there were glimmers on the Maui food horizon even then: Mama's Fish House and Longhi's...which are still going strong after all these years. Today, my personal favorite HRC chef is Alan Wong. He was born in Tokyo and raised on Oahu, where he graduated from the Kapiolani Community College's Culinary Institute of the Pacific (that year he received the Most Outstanding Student Award). He traveled to New York and worked with Andre Soultner at the legendary Lutece and returned to Hawaii to triumph at the Canoe House restaurant at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel and Bungalows on the Big Island.

After a number of years at the CanoeHouse, Alan moved to Honolulu and opened Alan Wong's Restaurant, in 1995. He was just named 1998 Chef of the Year by the readers of Honolulu Magazine. If I were somehow on a layover in Honolulu and could only eat one meal...I'd take a taxi to Alan Wong's.

Earlier this year I attended "Cuisines of the Sun" which many foodies would agree is the world's preeminent food and wine festival. Each year several top chefs from all over the world gather, along with top wine producers, to create five days of meals along a certain theme. This past year Alan closed down his restaurant in Honolulu for five days and moved his entire operation to the lawn of the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel for one glorious evening of food and wine. I was in the company of some of the most famous food writers and critics in the world and Alan had us all practically sliding off our seats with one amazing dish after another. Alan Wong's Restaurant, 5th Floor, 1857 S. King St., Honolulu 808-949-2526.

While at "Cuisines of the Sun" on the Big Island (Hawaii) I snuck off site and had three remarkable lunches. One was in the beautiful little town of Hawi on the island's north Kohala shore. The town is sort of "career central" for local artists and artisans. And right smack dab in the middle of the town is the Bamboo Restaurant and Gallery. The building, down through the years, housed a hotel (and some say brothel) and now boasts what many people feel is a true miracle...a great restaurant in the middle of nowhere...that is, if you consider paradise to be nowhere. While at Bamboo, be sure to order the house specialty, potstickers; beautiful little steamed dumplings with a variety of fillings. If you're nice...they will give you the recipe...and tell you what the secret ingredient is. Open for lunch and dinner daily, Bamboo 808-889-5555.

Another HRC Mecca where I enjoyed lunch (a huge bargain at around $10) was Peter Merriman's, whom many credit with organizing the other island chefs who formed the nucleus of Pacific Rim/Fusion/HRC cooking in Hawaii. Located in the charming, up-country cattle ranching town of Waimea you will love the meals prepared with only fresh island produce, fish and meats. Merriman's, 808-885-6822.

And last, but certainly not least, I would heartily recommend lunch at Oodles of Noodles in Kailua-Kona. This place belongs to Master Chef Amy Ferguson Ota formerly of the Ritz-Carlton on the Big Island (now the gorgeous Orchid at Mauna Lani Hotel/Resort). Again, lunch is a huge bargain (nearly everything is under $10) and the food is as good as it gets. Call 808-329-9222.

The Return to Maui

The site of the festival was the Culinary Institute of the Pacific (CIP) located on the stunning campus of Kapiolani Community College. Again I was with the "working" press and we couldn't believe how beautiful this campus is. It's located between the "back" of Diamond Head and Koko Head Craters...up on a rise that truly overlooks paradise. This ain't Kansas! O...to be a student there!

At the CIP the students and teachers helped prepare the various dishes created by the visiting Outrigger chefs. The students also run the school's cafeteria and the upscale Ka Ikena Restaurant, which is open to the public for lunch and dinner, Tuesdays through Fridays (except for holidays). Call 808-734-9488 for reservations. Space is limited and this is really popular with locals, so try to call well in advance of your trip.

The foodies all agreed that this festival deserved an A+ for donating the profits to the CIP. Plus, the food was unique and good. The hotline for the 1999 Cuisines of the Pacific is 808-921-6941.

The afternoon Cuisines of the Pacific concluded, my friend Sharon picked me up at my hotel, the wonderful Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach and took me on a hike up to the easternmost point of Oahu. This was the spot that inspired James Jones to pen "From Here to Eternity". After we hiked back down she asked me what kind of food I wanted for dinner. After four days of great Polynesian food, I immediately blurted out "lasagne". She took me to Assaggio, a really nice, casual Italian place in the Koko Marina Shopping Center (808-396-0756). Just what I "needed" at that point...Italian comfort food.

Sharon lives in Hawaii Kai and earlier in the year I stayed with her for a night on my way back from Cuisines of the Sun. Again, after five days of incredible sunny cuisine...I again craved comfort food. That time we wound up at Roy's. Like Alan Wong, Roy Yamaguchi, is one of the "fathers" of Pacific Rim cuisine. And, like Alan, Roy is usually in his restaurant, unlike some other well-known HRC chefs who seldom seem to be around. So, what did I have at Roy's? His world famous meatloaf and mashed potatoes. Roy's, 808-396-7697. Note: if you sit upstairs you get to see Roy in action...if you sit downstairs near the bar the lower noise level and a dry martini will help maintain your sanity...this guy is really famous and the place is always jammed.

OK...OK! The Return to Maui

On November 1, after Cuisines of the Pacific, I boarded my Island Air flight and took off for the West Maui airport. I had flown into the Kahalui and Hana airports before...so I picked West Maui because it was new to me and also just up the hill (mountain) from my new condo destination...the Sands of Kahana.

My fear in returning to a place that I love is that the magic will have worn off. Each time I go back to Paris or Venice I wonder if I will "feel" the same way...and I always do. The same goes for New York...after 25 years here...I still can't wait to see the skyline from the taxi on the way into town from the airport.

Maui, again, sent me over the top. Flukes got me an upgrade to a new Mustang convertible at Budget and a three-bedroom condo at the Sands of Kahana. And, here is one of the few sad things about being a travel writer...I had no one to share the car or condo with. Yet, I really wanted to do this trip alone. Some day I may want to live on Maui and wanted to see what it would be like by myself.

But, I wasn't alone for long...my pal Bonnie, originally from New York, has lived on Maui for nearly 20 years. She's one of the most well connected people on the entire island and made sure I got a taste of HRC...Maui style.

Our first dinner was at Sansei...in toney Kapalua. I thought my sushi phase had peaked about three years ago...however, dinner at Sansei changed that idea. Executive chef/owner Dave "DK" Kodama and his talented staff turn out an amazing amount of variations on the sushi/sashimi theme. But there is more than sushi at Sansei...like signature dishes of: shrimp and nori ravioli, macadamia nut-crusted lamb with miso demi-glaze, slow-roasted black tea duck and wonderful fresh local fish specials.

I kept thinking how many times I would want to return to fully explore the dazzling menu. And, let's not even mention the sake possibilities...after all, I didn't want to crack up the Mustang. After a dinner at Sansei, it's not difficult to figure out why this restaurant is rated number 1 in all of the Hawaiian Islands in the current Zagat Survey. Sansei serves nightly 5:30 -11pm and until 2am Thursdays and Fridays. Call 808 669-6286.

The next day I drove the Mustang over to Kihei and looked at the condo that we'd had stayed in 12 years before...still there...still looking good...it's called the Maui Sunset. Then I aimed the Mustang part way up Mount Haleakala for my lunch destination...to meet Bonnie and dine at the Haliimaile General Store. Again, this restaurant is just as famous for the building it's in (literally in a former general store in the middle of a pineapple plantation) as it is for it's wonderful food.

This place is the brainchild of chef/coowner Beverly Gannon and her husband Joe. After a successful career as a major talent manager in Hollywood, Bev decided to switch careers and open a restaurant. She trained at London's Cordon Bleu, and, with Marcella Hazan and Jacques Pepin.

In 1988 she and Joe opened the Haliimaile General Store which seats 130 in the front and back rooms and the rest is history...one of the best and most popular restaurants in Hawaii. The proof is the many locals who congregate every day for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch. Signature dishes include Bev's Boboli (crab dip on a 6" Boboli), Szechuan barbecued salmon, pina colada cheesecake and chocolate macadamia nut fudge pie. Lunch costs around $15 for an appetizer and entree. This place can't be beat. Call 808 572-2666. And, if your having a party...Bev is considered to be the best caterer on the Island.

On my way back down to Wailuku, just down the road from the Haliimaile General Store, I stopped in for a tour of the Baldwin Mansion (originally named Kaluanui) which is now the home for the Hui Noeau Visual Arts Center. Built in 1917, it was the home of Maui's first family in the pineapple industry, Harry and Ethel Baldwin. Ethel founded the Hui Noeau Visual Arts Society in 1934 and it lives on today in the beautiful mansion and out buildings.

Special exhibits of local art works may be viewed free of charge (although donations are welcomed) and local artists and artisans can take advantage of the many classes, lectures, programs and studio space provided by the society. This beautiful home and its grounds is definitely a must see. Call 808 572-2750 for information.

In Wailuku, seat of the Maui County Government, I stopped in for a tour of the Bailey House Museum, which is also the home of the Maui Historical Society. Built in the early 1800's by missionaries, on land granted by Hawaiian royalty, the house and grounds are today open to the public. The collection of Maui historical treasurers on view are believed to be the largest in the world. Call 808 244-3326 for information.

I was on my own for dinner that night. But, again, thanks to Bonnie, I wasn't really alone at all. Her pal Alex is the manager at another HRC Mecca, David Paul's Lahaina Grill located in the middle of the old whaling village. Alex set me up at the bar and after a sip of my martini I felt a welcome paw on my shoulder. It was Chef Tom Selman whom I had met earlier in the year at Cuisines of the Sun on the Big Island. Tom stuffed me with a number of tidbits from his incredible kitchen: Eggplant Napoleon, Kona Lobster-crab cakes, Kalua duck with plum wine reduction, Kona coffee roasted rack of lamb and enough desserts to land me in Weight Watchers for the rest of my life.

I felt at home in this place and thought, if I ever moved to Maui, I could always find some pals at David Paul's Lahaina Grill. Open at 6pm for dinner, seven nights a week. Call 808 667-5117 for reservations.

Condo Heaven

The notepad by the phone included the phone number of Sullivan Properties (The Sands of Kahana is a Sullivan Property). I called the office number, and was lucky to make the acquaintance of Steve Moses, manager. It turns out that Sullivan Properties manages more than 150 units in condominium resorts and vacation home complexes throughout West Maui.

So, Steve let me tag along for the better part of a morning as he made his rounds to check on this and that. In the process I saw units of all sizes and prices...from a nice one-bedroom garden-view place at the Kahana Sunset ($95 per night) on up to gorgeous oceanfront two-bedroom villas at Kapalua ($440 per night, in season).

Steve recommends that people call Sullivan and let them know how many people are in their party, if there are kids, etc. They can then match people up with the condo best suited for their needs. Those traveling with teenagers might want to be closer to the action...while honeymooners might want a little more serenity. The toll free number for reservations and information is1-888-669-0324.

And, after a morning of condo touring...Steve said, "What do you want for lunch". I said, "A cheeseburger and fries". He took me to Cheese Burger in Paradise on Front St. in Lahaina. We sat next to an open window that indeed did overlook paradise...the Pacific Ocean with the Island of Lanai just across the way.

Maui...here I come!

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Clint Brownfield is a globetrotting food and travel journalist who resides in New York City when between adventures. Among other publications, his work has been seen in Working Mother and Woman's Day.