Story & Photos by Mitch Mandell

The water is so clear and calm you can actually see multicolored fish swimming more than thirty feet below. Warm winds gently caress your body as you soak up sun beneath an azure blue sky. You've undoubtedly heard this talk before describing any number of tropical locals. Mostly, they have the same things in common: clear, warm inviting water, hot sand and beautiful sunny skies. That's why this article is going to describe the uniqueness instead of the similarities of the British Virgin Islands, or BVI as it's known by its inhabitants.

What makes the Virgin Islands most unique is the fact that they are a sailor's dream -- you can go sailing and never be more than few miles from another island. Whether you're a first time sailor or a serious old salt, I highly recommend sailing her waters.

Sailing, any sailing, is not only fun and relaxing but healthy for the soul. The only way for you to find this out for yourself is to "just do it." There is no better place to learn to sail than the Bitter End Yacht Club located on the North Sound of Virgin Gorda in the BVI.

The North Sound is a calm patch of water protected by several islands. Even during storms when other parts of BVI are under attack by five or ten foot swells, the waters in front of the Bitter End Yacht Club remain relatively calm.

Not only does the Bitter End Yacht Club have great water, but you'll find world class yachtsmen lounging around and chatting about their adventures and misadventures on the high seas. One such yachtsmen is Nick Trotter, who runs the Nick Trotter Sailing School from the Bitter End Yacht Club. The school has a schoolhouse with classrooms of course, but you will also find a fleet of boats for "on the water" training. Nick's classroom lectures and hands on training will have you tacking and jibbing with confedience and skill in no time.

During my stay, I was lucky enough to hook up with two future Americas Cup stars, Cameron and Alan. Knowing their skill level, I quickly became friends with these two young New Zelanders, who came to be known affectionatly as "The Kiwis". Not only did these boys know their port from starboard, their Hollywood good looks and winning personalities had the women at the yacht club swooning!

Going To The Dogs At The Bitter End

As I'm an experienced sailor, the Kiwis and I borrowed two of the yacht club's Freedom 30's for a day of sailing and sunning. Cameron and his crew (some of the swooning ladies) took one boat and Alan and I took the others for our daysail to "The Dogs."

"The Dogs" are not actually canines, but rather several small islands about six miles west of the Bitter End Yacht Club, outside of the protection of the North Sound. As with most days in the BVI, we had calm seas, predictable winds and warm sunshine. We wound up at George Dog, a very small island with several moorings where boats can be tied. The crystal clear water and abundant fish made this a perfect spot for swimming and snorkleing.

A Fish Story

I'm not kidding when I say "abundant fish". With the boats secure, we were diving off into the thirty feet of water below. In most instances this is no problem and lots of fun. On one of my dives, however, I hit the water harder then usual. When I came up I noticed some blood trickling into my eye. I had headbutted a fish!!! I could not believe it. I pulled a Freddie Blassie on a fish or as the Kiwis called it "A Liverpool kiss." No need to worry, there was no serious injury, but in the future I will heed the warning "look before you leap."

Anagada Island

Another great day trip is Anagada Island. The experienced Bitter End Yacht Club staff took us on their 48 foot catamaran for this two hour sail. Unlike most the other islands in the BVI, Anagada is long and flat and the only coral island in this volcanic chain. If you don't know where it is it can be easily missed as it's highest point is only 28 feet above sea level.

This island has miles of beaches, dotted with shells, corals and washed up sea fans, perfect for collecting and gathering souveniers. For lunch we had the best deep fried fish fingers I've ever tasted. These battered and fried swordfish chunks are best eaten after being doused with heavy helpings of Pam's Papaya hot sauce and cocktail sauce, both of which are made on the island by Pam herself. While on Anagada you must go to Pam's Kitchen where you can buy her famous sauce. Then to cool your palette, try one of Pam's chocolate brownie ice cream sandwiches. You'll be glad you did. After lunch we took a taxi ride around the island to one of the Caribbean's famous most stretches of beach, Loblolly Beach.

The Baths

Another popular stopping point are The Baths -- a formation of giant boulders where the sand meets the shore. This mounding of rocks form large pools and grottos, sheltered from onlookers and therefore perfect for bathing. The labyrinth of passageways can be explored by following clearly marked trails that lead between the boulders from pool to pool. No one can explain how the rocks got there. Some say it was a meteor and others say it's one of God's miracles.

In the British Virgin Islands, some people like to stay on shore and some like to stay on boats. Landlubbers will love the Bitter End Yacht Club because of the beautiful surroundings, attentive staff and comfortable rooms. If you're sailing the islands a stop at the Bitter End is a great place to pick up extra provisions, grab a hot shower and nice meal before sailing off the next day for another adventure.

For More Information

Bitter End Yacht Club -- For more information or to make reservations at The Bitter End Yacht Club call 800-872-2392 (US) or their Chicago office at 312-640-5504. Be sure to ask about their many great package deals including family and honeymoon packages. Accomodations range from rooms to suites to villas, so there's something for everyone. Visit the Bitter End's website at www.beyc.com.

BVI -- For general British Virgin Islands tourist information call the BVI Tourist Board at 809-494-2413 or visit the BVI Tourist Board website at www.bviwelcome.com.