SOUTH OF FRANCE -- Fans of the all-inclusive vacations looking for a unique way to see Europe should definitely check out barge cruising. While large cruising mega-barges exist, we like the smaller 6 to 12 passenger barges because not only do they provide a more intimate experience, their smaller size allows them to travel waterways blocked to their larger counterparts.

European Waterways is a good company providing luxury barge cruising, offering a wide variety of creative itineraries throughout Europe. I've personally traveled with the company twice now (see also Cruising Burgundy's Canal du Nivernais) and in both cases my fellow passengers had each been on at least three other European Waterways cruises (some many more than that). It's hard to find better testimonials than travelers coming back to the same company again and again.

By nature European barge cruises are laid back experiences, with plenty of time to watch the scenery as you slowly drift by. A European Waterways vacation borders on a "Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous" experience. The attentive crew - including Captain, Chef, Hostess and Steward, caters to their passengers' needs and whims - often guessing what's desired before the passengers even realize they wanted it. Drinks and snacks seem to "magically" appear at the proper moments. The on-board bicycles always "happen" to be unloaded and ready for afternoon explorations of nearby villages or a jaunts to the sea. The hot tub is conveniently uncovered and ready to serve as the vantage point from which to watch the world go by during long afternoon cruising stretches.

We're Having a Heat Wave
In the summer of 2006, during the worst heat wave the country has seen in decades, we set off for a trip on L'Impressionniste to explore the Rhône river and Camargue area of the south of France. The heat caused a few adjustments - air conditioners ran full time keeping cabins and common areas of the barge comfortable. The umbrella shaded hot tub was filled instead with cool water, providing a refreshing place to escape the heat and enjoy afternoon cocktails. The barge is so comfortable and elegantly appointed, it's hard to imagine it actually started life as a Dutch cargo vessel.

Fine Food
Throughout the cruise we dined on recipes from celebrity chef Rick Stein's French Odyssey Cookbook. In fact, Stein's homes away from home while researching his Provencal cookbook were European Waterway's barges the Anjodi and L'Impressionniste. On board copies of the book provide passengers with the chef's view of the areas where we are traveling and inspire us to try some more favorite Provencal dishes when we return home.

Each morning, Jen McStay, our on board chef, scoured local markets and purveyors for the best ingredients she could find - fine French cheese, fresh meats, seafood and produce. These would then be transformed into her versions of Stein's Provencal recipes.

Beyond the prepared food, each and every meal on board is accompanied by one or two new cheese and two new wines. The staff is knowledgeable, and their introductions and histories of the wines and cheese we were about to consume were enlightening and fascinating.

Changing Terrains
While the crew busily works, passengers enjoy the day. Unlike our previous cruise on Burgundy's Canal du Nivernais, where the scenery remained spectacular but steady, the terrain on this trip was constantly changing. We floated on canals, rivers, and even a large lake. Our overnight stops took us to ancient towns - major tourist attractions in Europe -- but probably a bit off the beaten lath for the majority of Americans, as well remote stops along the Mediterranean and in a tree cannpied canal.

Avignon
Our journey actually took root in the ancient walled city of Avignon (it's not the only medieval walled city we would encounter on the trip), the capital of Christianity during the middle ages. L'Impressionniste crew members picked up passengers at the Grand Hotel, conveniently located almost next door to the train station.

Our barge home was docked across the Rhone river in Villeneuve-lez-Avignon. During our champagne welcome and all through the evening we gazed at the astounding site of the ancient walls reflected in the glassy smooth surface of the river. Tomorrow we would have a few hours to explore the city, but there's so much history and culture in this town, you may want to schedule an extra day or two before or after the cruise to truly see it all.

The highlight of our Avignon tour was the magnificent Palace du Papes - the largest existing gothic palace in the world. The work of Pope Benedict XII and his successor Pope Clement VI, it took less than twenty years to build the enormous palace, beginning in 1335. While restorations on the buildings are ongoing, it's astounding to see just how much of the original structures and artwork have survived from the time when Avignon served as the world's center of Christianity. You can visit 25 rooms in the palace including the ceremonial rooms, chapel, cloister, private papal apartments and more. Pick up an audio tour when you go in and you explore the Palace at your leisure, listening to the background information and history of the awe inspiring ancient buildings surrounding you.

If you happen to visit Avignon in July, you will find yourself in the middle of the world's largest live theatre festival. The entire town has an "out of time" carnival like atmosphere, with street performers and craft vendors lining the narrow streets and colorful posters touting various festival performances covering buildings and walls. A general mood of bohemian merriment encompasses all. Even the ancient Palaces du Papes gets in on the act with classic theatre performances held in its Honour Courtyard. With a setting this magical and mysterious - inside an ancient gothic castle - it makes no matter if you can't understand the play's language.

Wine lovers will want to visit Avignon during June's Rhone River Festival, September's Harvest Festival or November's New Wine Festival where Provencal cuisine and wines are celebrated. The Côtes de Provence wine region is mainly known for its dry, fruity rosé wines: Bandol, Bellet, Palette, Cassis. Red wines include Côtes du Rhône, Chateauneuf-du-Pape and Gigonoles. Of course as the capital of Cotes du Rhones, Avignon offers fabulous wine and dining options at any time of year, with or without a festival going on.

After a stroll though Avignon's bustling shopping district, it's time to return to the barge for a light lunch of salads and cheeses (and of course, two new wines). While passengers dine, the captain sets off. We are afforded one more spectacular view of the walled city as we circle Avignon before heading down the Rhone towards our next destination, Arles. Along the way we'll cruise past the foothills of the Alpilles.

Arles and The Camargue
Our first stop in the city of Arles, a Roman capital and major medieval religious center, was an ancient Roman arena built in 90 A.D. (yes, you read that date correctly). More astounding than the fact that a building of this age is still standing, is the fact that it is still in public use today. What began life as a gladiator arena now serves as bullfighting arena (the area of the South of France is very close to Spain). Being amidst so much ancient and violent history gives us an eerie feeling - some of us are physically uncomfortable here - or perhaps it's just the sweltering summer heat.

We felt better after leaving the arena and started meandering through the narrow streets of downtown Arles, although this was no less a step back in time. In fact a stroll through Arles is in many ways, a stroll through history. Traces of Arles' many lives can still be glimpsed, from its days as a Greek trading post, to its time as a Roman colony, to the medieval Arles with its magnificent examples of gothic architecture, to the Arles of Vincent van Gogh. The painter arrived here in 1888 and began fifteen months of intense artistic activity and productivity.

The sites of some of Van Gogh's most famous paintings can be visited in and around Arles. Even if you don't happen to find the exact same sunflower field as Vincent, you can still get a real feeling for the place as the artist must have seen it.

Arles is also the old capital of the Camargue - a vast and somewhat mysterious natural region between the Mediterranean Sea and the arms of the Rhone river delta. About a third of the Camargue is either lakes or marshland. We'll be cruising through this regions the remainder of the day while on our way to the fortified medieval town of Aigues Mortes. Much of the land is protected and the Camargue remains one of Europe's most important and beautiful natural attractions.

Large expanses of coastal salt meadows serve as pasture land for herds of Camaguais - the region's famous white horses. Horseback riding cowboys (gardians in French) can often be seen tending herds of sheep and black bulls, raised for export to Spain. Still other parts of the Camargue are used for rice cultivation, as the crop helps to remove salt from the soil.

After traveling on the Petit Rhone we connect with the Canal du Rhone, the waterway that will carry us to our mooring outside the fortress walls of the town of Aigues Mortes.

Aigues Mortes
When Louis IX first built the walled city of Aignes Mortes in 1240 it was a port with easy access to the Mediterranean and the riches beyond from Italy and the Orient. Today Aignes Mortes lies some three miles inland due to the Rhone River's constant mud deposits. In recent years man has intervened to slow the outward coastal expansion by building dams and dykes. Nonetheless flooding is major concern in this region.

L'Impressionniste's mooring here is just a short stroll from the city's ramparts. While this fortress no doubt inspired awe and fear in the residents of old, today the city is a big European tourist destination. Narrow cobblestone streets are filled with tacky tourist shops selling t-shirts and other such disposable souvenirs. It's not a bad place to pick up gift for the folks at home as you'll find tons of shop selling Provencal products - lavender, olive and olive oil, wines, etc.

Once an important port, Aigues Mortes' high standing was eventually overtaken by Marseilles. Nonetheless the remnants of the past still stand proudly. Visitors can walk the entire ramparts, getting an overview of the town and surrounding areas below.

The ominous Constance tower, accessed by a winding narrow stone spiral staircase, once served as a prison for protestant women in the 18th century. It's difficult to imagine the degree of suffering in the form of religious persecution that went on in these dark tower walls and the dungeon below. The feeling here is oppressive andiInteresting as the history may be, we're all happy to get out into the sunlight and back to the bustle of the tourist town again.

After a bit more shopping we walk back to the barge. While enjoying lunch the crew sets the barge in motion and we head off.

To the Mediterranean
Today's cruising will take us through more of the Camargue. The terrain we'll see includes beaches and dunes, marshes, temporary marshes, salt marshes, and salt meadows. A huge variety of fresh and salt water wildlife coexist in and on the brackish waters of the Camargue.

As we float past the salt marshes we're greeted by a huge pink flying cloud - the area is an important nesting site for Pink Flamingos. More than 400 species of birds also enjoy the temperate climate and rich feeding opportunities of the Camargue.

Soon we're in what appears to be beach territory. Screeching seagulls glide through the air, sail boats frequently float along beside us, and there's a smell of the ocean in the air. This area is known as "The Venice of the Languedoc," and like most beach towns it consists of expensive beach front and near water front homes, and lots of boating, and fishing.

Captain Philippe finds a mooring that's picturesque and quiet. Just a five minute bike ride away is the Mediterranean Sea. We all quickly grab bathing suits and head out towards the white sand beaches for a swim in the almost bathwater-warm clear waters.

Later that evening after the usual dinner of Provencal fare, cheeses, and wines, the passengers sat on the deck sipping cocktails, listening to jazz music and staring at the spectacular light show of stars in the skies. The only man made light or sounds came from our barge - otherwise we were alone in this exotic corner of the world. There were no worries, no responsibilities and the rest of humanity seemed light years away.

Marseillan and Beyond
After another swim in the early morning, we set sail -- much of the afternoon is spent crossing Thau Lake, a large, inland salt-water lagoon full of mussel and oyster beds. The water is so clear that you can sometimes see miniature sea horses passing on the tide.

After lunch on board we arrive in Marseillan, a beautiful Mediterranean fishing village. This is yet another instance where we feel out of time. The small town before us looks like it came out of a Hollywood movie set - complete with a small masted tall ship docked next to the barge. The ship's friendly captain - who hand built the vessel himself -- looks like he's ready to film the next Pirates of the Caribbean sequel.

A short walk down the street we tour the Noilly Pratt vermouth distillery. The entire world's supply of this famous aperitif is produced here in this small seaside town and we get an intimate tour of the entire process from barrel aging to bottling. Of course the highlight was the vermouth tasting at the end.

Wine aficionados will also want to stop and visit Bruno's wine shop the Taverne du Port. The small shop is well stocked with great vintages at reasonable prices and its knowledgeable owner is happy to share tips and tastings about the wonderful wines of the Languedoc.

On this particular night Chef Jen has the night off and instead accompanies passengers to a popular local restaurant (also included in the price of the cruise), a nice change of pace and a way to interact more with locals.

Marseillan to Agde
The next afternoon we cruise on the Canal du Midi, the oldest complete canal in France, to the town of Agde. We make a side trip to Pezenas an ancient town that has become a cultural center and artist's haven. Once a haunt of Moliere, the city hosts summer long arts festivals. The shopping here is wonderful with creative art pieces, both decorative and functional, at every turn.

All too soon it was time to return to the barge. That evening at the Captain's dinner, the passengers and crew mingled over great food wine and lively conversations. Before the night was over, dinner had morphed into a full blown party with dancing on deck - one last fling before we had to return to reality then next morning and leave our barge home behind to become just a memory.

Practicalities

European Waterways - For more information or to make reservations for this, or any of the barge cruises offered by European Waterways (they offer lots of options all over Europe), visit www.GoBarging.com; email sales@gobarging.com; or call toll free from the United States 800-394-8630; toll free from Canada 888-342-1917; from the mainland UK 00 0871-330-8117; or internationally 44 (0) 1784-482439.

All food and drinks (24 hour a day open bar) are included in the price of a cruise, as well as the side trips. Also included is dinner out a restaurant of note along the barge's route.

It's easy to get from Paris to the meeting point in Avignon via high speed or TVG trains from the Gare de Lyon station. You can also fly directly to Montpelier then catch a train to Avignon.