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| A Thrifty Tour of Scotland |
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| By Cheri Sicard
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| Posted August 6th, 2007 |
| FabulousFoods.com Recommends: Make Your Travel Dollars Worth a Fortune: The Contrarian Traveler's Guide to Getting More for Less, by Tim Leffel, (2006, Travelers' Tales) |
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| Make Your Travel Dollars Worth a Fortune: The Contrarian Traveler's Guide to Getting More for Less |
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(Editor's Note: This article was written circa 1998. Prices and some details have changed. If anyone has more recent experiences, please post them to the comment blogs below.)
While Scotsmen have always had a reputation for being thrifty, the current economic climate of the UK has a reputation for being expensive for Americans.
Since I'm always being up to a challenge, I was determined to embark on a "Thrifty Tour of Scotland" and had some very good results. This article is by no means complete. I only had a week and there's still a lot of Scotland to see, but this will help you get on your way to experiencing this beautiful and fascinating country, without breaking the bank.
Getting To Scotland Thriftily
Check online or the travel section of your Sunday newspaper to find the best deals. Generally speaking, the further in advance you book the better deal you'll get. Many airlines fly to Scotland (American, United, Virgin Atlantic). Personally, I have to recommend that you avoid British Airways. I had an absolutely horrendous experience with them (on three separate occasions) which they have refused to take any responsibility for. I have, however, had very good experiences flying Virgin Atlantic, American
and United.
Sometimes you may get a better deal flying to London and then traveling to Scotland.
If you do need to get from London to Scotland, there are several options. Bus is the cheapest, some numbers to call are:
- National Express London 0990 808080
- Silver Choice 013552 30403
- London Liner 0171 833 4472
Trains are a bit more expensive, but quicker. Call:
- British Rail London 0345 484950
- British Rail Edinburgh 0345 484950
Quickest yet are planes. There are price wars developing that might make this an alternative (although most of the inexpensive flights leave from airports on the outskirts of London). Call:
Getting Around Scotland
Scotland has wonderful public transportation, both within its major cities and connecting them. For buses to almost anywhere in the UK go to St. Andrews bus station in Edinburgh or Buchanan Bus Station in Glasgow. You can also get a bus at the Glasgow Airport that goes directly to Edinburgh (and vice versa).
For trains, Edinburgh's major station is Waverly and in Glasgow it's the Queens Street Station (only five hours by train from London's Euston Station). Check at these stations for all kinds of travel bargains like the "Day Tripper" fare which allows one day's unlimited travel on ScotRail, Glasgow Underground and most bus services in the Glasgow area.
There are lots of package deals such as this in the major cities as well as with the rail and bus systems that cover the entire country. Call (in Glasgow) 0141-332-7133 for more information.
Backpacker's Buses
Another option for getting around the country are "backpacker's buses", and no, you don't have to be a backpacker to take advantage of this option. These services allow you to jump on and off the bus when you wish, while covering approximately 1000 kilometers of Scotland from the Highlands to the West Coast. The buses will drop you at the front door of various hostels (more on this later in the article), with frequent stops in between. Experienced tour guides give you the low down on sites along the way.
This is a great and inexpensive way to see Scotland at your own pace. You can hop on and off as many times as you wish, and spend as much time as you like completing the bus's circuit.
If you're short of time, there are 3 day, 2 night adventure tours available through Haggis. Haggis Tours leave from Edinburgh, call them at (country code 44) 0131-557-9393 for more information, or write Haggis Backpacker Ltd., 11 Blackfriars St., Edinburgh, EH1 1NB, Scotland. They offer a lot of options, so ask for a brochure.
IMPORTANT: you don't have to be a backpacker or stay at hostels to take advantage of this great inexpensive transportation.
(Editor's Note: This article was written circa 1998. Prices and
some details have changed. If anyone has more recent experiences,
please post them to the comment blogs below.)
Driving In Scotland
Another option for getting around Scotland is renting (or hiring, as the British say) a car. Since I only had a week total, I chose this option.
There are many Scottish rental car agencies and you can easily find one at the airport or at major train stations. Another option is to set up your rental car before you leave by calling Auto Europe at (800) 223-5555. This great company had all kinds of specials and they even rent motorhomes! Here's a link to the Auto Europe website. 
A couple of things to be aware of before driving in Scotland (or anywhere in the UK, for that matter). The driver's side is on the right and you drive on the left side of the road. To make matters even worse, most rental cars have standard (as opposed to automatic) transmissions. If you have trouble with stick shifts (and remember, you will be shifting with your left hand), leave the driving to someone else. You can request an automatic car, but it is SIGNIFINCANTLY more expensive.
The left side driving wasn't too bad once I got used to it as most of my driving took place in the country. I highly recommend you avoid driving in the big cities as it's quite intimidating and public transportation is so good, it really isn't necessary.
While renting a car was comparable in price to doing so in the United States, gas was not. As much as we complain about gas prices here, we're not even in the contest. It cost almost $40.00 (US) to fill the tank in a tiny sub-compact car! Luckily, the entire country doesn't cover that much territory, so I only needed to fill the tank twice in the entire trip, and I covered a lot of ground.
Here are a few other pointers about driving in the UK:
- Seatbelts are the law, so buckle up.
- There is no general priority rule when approaching road junctions, each individual junction is marked with either a red triangle "give way" sign or a red "stop" sign. Some junctions will only have "give way" markings on the road itself ( a white triangle with double dotted white lines across the road).
- Many (and I do mean many) intersections will have "roundabouts". Those of us from the northeast United States know these as rotaries (those of you from the southern US have probably never seen such as thing in your life!). A roundabout is a traffic circle with various offshoots, used instead of the normal intersection. Drive around the roundabout clockwise and signal left when you reach the exit you wish to use. "Mini Roundabouts" are indicated by a round blue sign.
- In any roundabout situation, give way to traffic coming from the right, including oncoming vehicles which may cross your path while turning right.
- The emergency telephone number for police, fire or ambulance is 999.
Keep aware of what side you're supposed to be driving on and all should be well. People tend to park on either side of the street in whichever direction they are going, something we don't do in the States. This can throw you, as you will see a car parked on the left hand side of the street, facing you. When in Rome...
Where To Stay
All the standard hotel chains (Holiday Inn, Hilton, etc.) exist in Scotland, but they're not for the thrifty traveler. There are, however, tons of Bed and Breakfast Hotels that are very reasonable. Some have "en suite" (bathroom in your room) facilities, while others have shared bathrooms down the hall, although you'll almost always have a sink in your room. You can find very decent rooms of this sort for about $35.00 - $50.00 (US) per night and that includes a hearty breakfast the following morning.
These hotels are easy to find by simply by walking down the street, or by going to a Thomas Cook office in the airport or train station -- you tell them what you want and how much you want to spend and for a service charge of about $5.00 they find you a hotel. In order to avoid a service charge here are a few Bed & Breakfast hotels to get you started:
Glasgow - Rennie Mackintosh Hotel - This is a gorgeous place to stay decorated in the art nouveau style of Scotland's most famous architect. Located just a short few minutes walk from the heart of Glasgow, this charming hotel is a very suitable home base.
- Rennie Mackintosh Hotel: 218/220 Renfrew St. Glasgow G3 6TX
- Phone: 0141-333-9992 FAX: 0141-333-9995
There are lots of other B&B's up and down Renfrew street. Take a walk and I'm sure you'll find a great place to stay.
Edinburgh - The Argus Hotel - A bit closer to the thick of things (but a bit more expensive, about $65.00 US) is the Argus Hotel, a B&B that also has a fully licensed bar on premises.
- Argus Hotel: 14 Coates Gardens, Edinburgh EH12 5LB
- Phone: 0131-337-6159 FAX: 01310337-6809
There are many other fine B and B's in the neighborhood. You can't walk a block without finding another. With that in mind, I would avoid the Glenora Hotel (in the same neighborhood as The Argus), for while the rooms were fine (albeit a bit pricey), I found the management to be rude. This is the only negative B&B experience I have ever had in the UK. Perhaps they were just having a bad day.
Inverness - Heathcote Bed & Breakfast - Rhona Lamont is your hostess at this comfortable B&B in Inverness (very near Loch Ness). Heathcote is one of many in a long row of B&B's on Glenurquhart Road, but be advised during heavy tourist season -- most of the summer as well as school holidays -- they all book up, so reservations are a must!
- Heathcote B&B: 59 Glenurquhart Rd., Inverness IV3 5PB
- Phone: 01463-243-650
(Editor's Note: This article was written circa 1998. Prices and
some details have changed. If anyone has more recent experiences,
please post them to the comment blogs below.)
Hostels
There are so many hostels scattered throughout Scotland, you need never stay in a hotel or B&B. They are a very safe and affordable lodging alternative. Contrary to popular opinion, you do not have to be a student to stay in a hostel, all ages are welcome.
Hostels are a wonderful way for people traveling alone to make new friends as the dorm style rooms and communal areas really encourage socialization.
Not only are hostels cheap, they can be interesting. Two of Scotland's hostels -- Loch Lomond and Carbisdale -- are converted castles, complete with ghosts!
Carbisdale Castle also contains a fabulous art collection. Where else can you spend a night in a castle for such a small cost?
If you're a privacy freak, then hostels probably aren't for you. The rooms are clean and comfortable, but "dorm style" (bunk beds, men with men, women with women). Hostels also have rules: no drugs, no alcohol and some have curfews (although they are so late you won't even notice them).
Youth hostels do book up during busy periods as well, so reservations are suggested.
Visit the Scottish Youth Hostels Association web site for more details and reservations.
What and Where To Eat and Drink
There's lots of eating and drinking options for the frugal traveler in Scotland. Some of the best bargains are the local pubs, which serve hearty fare: soups, stews, sandwiches, fish and chips and the ever popular national dish: haggis. No one would tell me what's actually in haggis for fear that I wouldn't eat it, but it does involve some sort of organ meat. There is also a vegetarian version of Haggis that is actually not bad. Give one of them a try as it's part of the Scottish Experience.
The pubs also have a nice selection of brews to try. I don't recommend mixed drinks in the UK, because they are pricey and each shot is strictly measured, by law, so you can never meet a generous bartender.
Many of the pubs also have historic significance. One of the best of these is Edinbugh's Ensign Ewart (521 Lawnmarket, The Royal Mile) which has more than three hundred years of history within its walls. Designed in the 17'th century and named after Ensign Charles Ewart, who single-handedly captured the standard of the famous French Invincibles at the battle of Waterloo, the bar was originally situated in the cellar of the present pub. A lot of famous people have passed through the Ensign Ewart's doors in its long and colorful history including noted authors Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns. With great food, wonderful drinks, live music and a dramatic history, how can you lose.
The Eerie Pubs are another great Edinburgh eating and drinking attraction. A collection of four macabre themed pubs based on local legends, these restaurants are fun and inexpensive. Get your "eerie pubs card" stamped at each of them when you buy drinks and get a way cool "I Survived The Eerie Pubs" t-shirt. The four eerie pubs are:
- Sneaky Pete's (73 Cowgate, Edinburgh, phone: 0131022501757) - Sneaky Pete was evidently an infamous Edinburgh body snatcher circa 1790.
- Maggie Dickson's (92 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, phone: 0131-225-6601) Maggie was hanged for allegedly murdering her newborn baby, but the hanging didn't actually kill her and she was allowed to live out her days in peace.
- The Old Fire Station Pub (52 West Port, Edinburgh, phone: 0131-228-4543) - Dedicated to the ghastly fires that have ravaged Edinburgh over the years.
- Jekyll & Hyde Pub (112 Hanover St. Edinburgh, phone: 0131-228-4543) - Obviously themed around the famous Robert Louis Stevenson story.
If pubs are not your thing, the usual array of low priced fast food chains are available.
Fish & Chips are another UK staple that can be had from any number of street side take-outs. My Scottish friends Charles Cameron and Alex Wallace say don't wait and take fish and chips home or to your hotel, they won't be as good. Fish and Chips must be eaten "on the hoof"!
Glasgow and Edinburgh
Scotland's two major cities, Glasgow and Edinburgh have a lot to offer tourists and chances are you'll be spending some time in at least one of them. A very efficient, as well as thrifty, way to see the major sites in either of these cities is via tour bus.
I'm not usually one for guided tours, but these offer you tons of freedom. Basically you hop on the bus, pay the driver (about $10.00 US) and you've got transportation for the day. The buses have set routes with stops at all the major tourist areas and attractions. You can hop on and off the bus as much as you like and be secure that there will always be another bus along in about 15-30 minutes. You can spend as much time as you like exploring the things that are interesting to you and have a running commentary about the city's historical sites while on the bus. It's a great deal that's hard to beat!
You can find the buses lined up around Waverly Station in Edinburgh or Queen's Street Station in Glasgow. The Edinburgh classic tour offers discounts of two adults for the price of one for tours beginning after 2:10 PM. For more information on these tours contact Lothian Region Transport, 27 Hanover St, Edinburgh EH2 2DL or phone 0131-554-4494.
Edinburgh also has a variety of interesting, inexpensive walking tours available that will appeal to a variety of tastes. There are historic tours, literary tours and a variety of ghost tours. Edinburgh is reported to be one of the most haunted cities on earth. Mercat Tours (phone: 0131-661-4541) is a good operator and they have many tours to choose from.
Attractions Outside Edinburgh and Glasgow
Just a short ride from either of Scotland's major cities is Stirling, home of Stirling Castle and Stirling Bridge.
Those of you who have seen Mel Gibson's Braveheart will remember Stirling Bridge as the seen of one of William Wallace's finest battles. You can find the national William Wallace Monument just one mile northeast of the town center (open March to October and weekends in February and November).
The town of Stirling has many other historic sites as well, so you might want to take some time to explore here.
You could visit castles all day, every day in Scotland and still not have time to see them all. So if you have to pick and choose, Stirling Castle is a good one. The castle was a strategic military base during the 13'th and 14'th centuries. Restored to much of its former splendor, Stirling Castle also has many historical displays depicting life in earlier times. Also part of Stirling Castle is the excellent museum of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders. The castle is open year round and guided tours are available.
Traveling on from Stirling, you'll soon come to Loch Lomond, of the legendary song fame. Loch Lomond is a wonderful place for nature lovers as there's lots of hiking, biking and fishing as well as cruises on the beautiful lake. Remember, for frugal lodgings, the Loch Lomond Youth Hostel is a restored castle. If you're really brave, ask to stay in room 27, it's reportedly haunted.
Heading north towards the Highlands you will drive along the coast of Loch Ness. You can search the twenty three mile long loch for monsters while en-route, but a stop at Castle Urquhart is a must. Perched on the edge of Loch Ness, the picturesque castle ruins are the site of the first "Nessie" sighting way back in the 6'th century. Walking around the ruins of such an ancient dwelling gives one an eerie feeling, even more so than at some of the castles that have been restored.
A short hop up the road from Castle Urquhart is the "Official Loch Ness Exhibition Center". Everything you've ever wanted to know about the Loch Ness monster is here, with the exception of conclusive proof that it's real. Nonetheless, the exhibit is well worth taking in, plus you can get some nifty, kitschy Nessie souvenirs.
After leaving the Loch Ness area, I headed further north, as I wanted to spend a night at Carbisdale Castle, a youth hostel which was reported to have several ghosts in residence.
Carbisdale, even with the ghosts aside, is a splendid place to spend a night.
Before settling in for the night though, I ventured north to the quaint seaside town of Brora, where, along with great seaside views, I toured an interesting whiskey distillery.
Clynelish Distillery makes scotch whiskey for some of the world's largest brands -- Johnnie Walker and Cutty Sark come immediately to mind -- as well as a very nice single malt under their own label. The single malt has a very limited production, so you probably won't find it in the states, but if you happen to be anywhere near Brora, it's worth the trip to pick up a bottle.
The Clynelish Distillery also hosts a fascinating tour that takes visitors through every step of the whiskey making process, including a taste at the finish! The staff here was so friendly and knowledgeable, it would be a pleasure to go back again just to visit with them.
These are just a few of the many sights and attractions a drive through Scotland can supply. I can't wait to go back and explore some of the islands off the coast of Scotland as well as other cities that I, unfortunately, just didn't have time to get to.
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