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Kayaking and Whale Watching in Baja California, Mexico
Rate it! Votes (0) | Comments (0) By Cheri Sicard Posted August 6th, 2007 FabulousFoods.com Recommends: The Rough Guide to Baja California (Rough Guide Travel Guides), by Rough Guides, (2006, Rough Guides)	The Rough Guide to Baja California (Rough Guide Travel Guides)

(Editor's Note: This article was written circa 1999, prices and some details have no doubt changed, If anyone has more recent experiences, please post them to the comment blogs section below.

MAGDALENA BAY; BAJA CALIFORNIA, MEXICO - Heart shaped spouts of condensation erupt from the surface of the mouth of Magdalena Bay. A loud "PHOOF" is heard on the starboard side of our skiff or "panga" and everyone quickly turns to view it's source. The fine mist touches our faces as a mammoth gray shape snakes through the ocean's choppy surface.

Each winter hundreds of California Gray Whales make the long journey from the far north Bering and Chukchi seas to the calm protected waters of Baja California's lagoons to mate and bear their young. The waters of Magdalena Bay, on the southern tip of Baja, are literally churning with activity from late January till early March. So plentiful are the whale sightings that it is often difficult to decide where to look.

It is common to see calves, just days old, swimming beside their mothers. These "babies" weigh about a ton at birth and are twelve to fifteen feet long. At this early stage of life, they will gain an average of one hundred pounds a day. It is a testimony to the hardiness of the mother whales when you realize that they have traveled all the way from Alaska to Mexico in order to give birth and nurse their young. In March they will turn around for the long return journey.

The Best Whales to Watch
Gray Whales provide the most rewarding experience for whale watchers in that they spend the least amount of time under water between breaths. While other species average about fifteen minutes down time and can spend up to an hour beneath the water, the Grays come up an average of every four to five minutes, although they are capable of staying down for thirty. This translates into more opportunities to view these awe inspiring creatures. Photographs or videos just can't compare to a close up encounter with a creature that can reach forty nine feet and weigh up to forty tons!

Spy hops, in which the whale pops his head out of the water to get his bearings and survey surroundings are frequent, often putting the whales on display for up to twenty seconds at a time. Even more impressive are breaches, in which whales come about three quarters out of the water and land with a giant splash on their backs. Marine biologists have two theories on why whales breach. One is to attract the attention of the opposite sex, the second is that it is the whale's way of scratching and dislodging the parasites that often cover their bodies.

An important whale watching tip is that when breach occurs, chances are a couple more will quickly follow, almost always in the same spot. Get the cameras ready!

Dolphins are also abundant in the bay and can often be seen interacting with the whales. One morning we followed a group of twelve dolphins and four whales for over thirty minutes. They appeared to be playing and frolicking with one another, the dolphins jumping over their larger friend's pectoral fins.

Whale watching is not all that Isla Magdalena and Magdalena Bay have to offer. The mangrove lined estuaries provide a paradise for bird watchers. I spotted over thirty five species in four days.

Sea kayaks or pangas are great vehicles for exploring the glassy waters around the thick growth of mangroves. Majestic Great Blue Herons were plentiful, gracefully perching on stilt like legs. The flocks of Pelicans dotting the air were so abundant that we came to affectionately call them the "Baja Air Force". The gentle call of Pacific and Common Loons permeate the air. Two sightings of American Bald Eagle nests have also been reported, the only known existence of these birds in Mexico.

Hikes along the dunes and miles of isolated beaches bring us into contact with millions of seashells and even old salt bleached whale bones. Tempted as we are to take some souvenirs, the Mexican government is very eco-conscious and there are strict regulations prohibiting this.

There are many trip options for those wishing to visit Magdalena Bay. Most leave from the quaint seaside town of La Paz, although Baja Travel has a great one day trip that leaves from Cabo San Lucas. Baja Expeditions and OARS offer wonderful Sea Kayaking/Whale Watching combinations, complete with equipment, instruction and guides. There are five day and eight day options.

If you have never tried kayaking, the gentle waters of Magdalena Bay are a great place to start. The trip is suitable for beginners as well as seasoned kayakers. The tour I joined (with Baja Expeditions) consisted of twelve people. Ten were women, four were seniors and two were only twelve years old. Camps are set up on the rolling dunes overlooking the bay. Be prepared to bathe in the brisk waters (or bring along a solar shower) and if you're traveling alone and do not wish to share a tent, be sure to make arrangements before leaving.

The food is first rate and features lots of fresh fruits and vegetables and such local dishes as ceviche and Baja's famous fish tacos. Each evening brings "Happy Hour" where guests were served pitchers of Margaritas, Pina Coladas or some other delectable drinkable along with some of the world's best guacamole.

Sunsets over the ocean are always spectacular and they are made even more so here, by the plumes of whale spouts in the distance. When the sun finally disappears a dramatic canopy of stars emerges against the jet black sky.

A starlit kayak paddle is the perfect way to view nature's most amazing magic show. The bay's waters are overflowing with phosphorus containing micro organisms. A chemical reaction occurs when the water is disturbed and the result is an amazing display of bio-luminescence. The kayaks and paddles cutting through the water leave trails resembling Fourth of July sparklers.

With so much activity and so many awe inspiring sights, a trip to Magdalena Bay truly soothes the mind, body and spirit. It's important for travelers to note that trips such as this almost became impossible. The Gray Whale's only predators are killer whales, man and possibly sharks. Gray Whales were heavily exploited by American whalers between 1846 and 1900. The Marine Mammal Protection Act of 1972 and the Endangered Species Act of 1979 have since provided protection.

The Korean Gray Whale population was thought to have been extinct, although recently there have been a few sightings. Luckily, the previously threatened west coast whale population is now estimated at between fifteen to twenty thousand. The prognosis for future growth is good. Take advantage of this good news and interact with these magnificent creatures first hand.

Isla Magadalena Practicalies & Getting There Info
Companies Offering Whale Watching and/or Sea Kayaking Tours from La Paz include:

• Baja Expeditions (800) 843-6967; www.bajaex.com/
• OARS (800) 348-6277; www.oars.com/index.html
• Biological Journeys (800) 548-7555
• Baja Discovery Tours (800) 829-2252 -- www.mexonline.com/bajadisc.htm
• Special Expeditions (800) 762-0003

From Cabo San Lucas

• Baja Travel (800) 777-BAJA For Hotels in La Paz try the 200 room Los Arcos at (800) 347-2252 (about $80-$100 U.S. per night).

La Paz Hotel Bargain
A great hotel bargain is the charming Hotel Mediterrane. Rooms have ocean views and are big, bright and airy. Be sure to call in advance, they only have six units. No 800 number but what you spend on the phone call will more than be made up for in hotel bill savings. (52) 112-51195

Two airlines fly to La Paz:
Aero California (800) 237-6225
Aero Mexico (800) 237-6639
For flying to Cabo San Lucas try Alaska Airlines (800) 426-0333 or Aero California at the above number .

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