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A Return to Solvang – An Old Time Danish Village in Southern California

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By Cheri Sicard and Mitch Mandell
Photos: Mitch Mandell and The Solvang Restaurant
Posted October 25th, 2008

SOLVANG, CALFORNIA, USA – One of my earliest road trip memories – and one that helped set me up for a lifetime of happily wandering the highways and side roads of America, was a stop my mother, older sister Linda, and I made to the Danish village of Solvang when I was about 6 years old. To my child’s eyes, it was like living in the set of any number of the Hans Christian Andersen fairy tales I was reading at the time.

At the age of 49, I returned to Solvang. I am happy to report that little has changed, with the exception of my adult appreciation for the area’s wines, and the Santa Barbara county wine producers’ willingness to indulge that appreciation.

The quaint windmill lined streets of Solvang look just like I remember them. Touristy shops brimming with Scandinavian imports and (now) the latest offerings from Thomas Kinkade and Christopher Radko tempt busloads of tourists to part with their money. And they happily oblige, new found treasures in tow as they head back to the suburbs from which they came.

pastries.jpg A disproportionate number of authentic Danish bakeries still provide multi-sensory experiences at every turn, filling the streets with sweet smells, their alluring displays providing a feast a for the eyeballs, before the wares turn into a banquet for the tastebuds and a bane to the waistline. Our favorite of these was Olsen’s Danish Bakery. I know their pastries are good, because my traveling companion, who almost never indulges in such things, was going back for seconds and thirds.

One of the best bargains in town is Olsen’s “Danish Breakfast,” a carb and fat be damned feast consisting of a hard roll with butter; 2 slices of Danish Doffino cheese; one of Olsen’s famous pastries of your choice (fair warning, choosing just one will be difficult); milk, coffee or tea; and a glass of fresh orange juice.

The other thing that hasn’t changed in Solvang since I was a kid is the typical tourist’s quest for the town’s most famous regional specialty, the aebleskiver. So obsessed was my sister on our initial trip to Solvang back in the 1960’s, she talked about it all the way from Chicago to LA on our cross country journey jammed into a Volkswagen Bug. We still kid her about it today, which only gets her started craving the sweet doughy little balls of calories again.

aebelskiverMany people think this doughnut like treat is filled with apples, and I suppose they could be made that way, but generally aren’t. In Solvang you’ll usually find aebleskivers covered with a healthy dusting of powdered sugar and served with a side of jam.

The Solvang Restaurant has made an industry out of aebleskivers, even selling a wide variety of special aebleskiver pans and a mix for those who wish to make the restaurant’s version of delicacy at home. For those who want to make aebleskivers from scratch, the folks from Andersen’s restaurant generously parted with their recipe (click here). You’ll still need the aforementioned pan – a skillet made with lots of small round molds in which to cook the individual aebleskivers.

On the outskirts of town in nearby Buellton (right off the 101 Freeway), Andersen’s is known far and wide for their extraordinary pea soup, in fact the restaurant’s full name is Pea Soup Andersen’s. Back in my days as a circus performer, a stop at Andersen’s for their “Traveler’s Special” (a value priced combo of all-you-can-eat pea soup, home baked bread, and a beverage) was required anytime we found ourselves passing through the area.

vintage car shows in solvang, cliforniaSolvang still hosts tons of special events, especially car shows (check the website for special event calendars).  For some reason, vintage car buffs just love to visit this area -- no doubt because of all of the scenic drives through rolling hills of vineyards nearby.

You’ll find a variety of places to stay in Solvang, all of which make a great home base from which to explore the Santa Barbara wine country. Those who don’t want to taste and drive will also find twelve (as of this writing) tasting rooms right in downtown Solvang, in easy walking distance of shops, restaurants, and hotels. We opted to set up camp at the Hadsten House Hotel and Spa and found ourselves surprisingly impressed (we’re food and travel writers – it isn’t easy to impress us). After over a year of renovations, the visionary owners transformed a generic chain motel into a luxurious European style retreat, tastefully outfitted in classic French furnishings, with romantic decorative fireplaces and lavish amenities, including complimentary wine and hors d’oeuvres each afternoon. The rooms were large, quiet, elegant, and extraordinarily comfortable (partially due to the custom mattresses). The location was in easy walking distance of all of downtown Solvang’s attractions and easy driving distance of nearby wine country towns, as well as the 101 freeway that leads to downtown Santa Barbara.

Practicalities

Getting to Solvang:
From the city of Santa Barbara turn right from Highway 101 at Highway 246.

For travel information specific to Solvang, visit the Solvang Convention and Visitor’s Bureau website at www.solvangusa.com.

For travel to Santa Barbara County in general or to request a free copy of the official Santa Barbara County Visitors Guide, contact the Santa Barbara Conference & Visitors Bureau and Film Commission at 800-676-1266, 805-966-9222, www.santabarbaraCA.com.

Olsen’s Danish Bakery is located at 1529 Mission Dr Solvang, CA 93463 (805) 688-6314. www.OlsensDanishBakery.com

The Solvang Restaurant is located at 1672 Copenhagen Dr Solvang, CA 93463 (805) 688-4645 www.SolvangRestaurant.com.

Find Pea Soup Andersen's at 376 Avenue of the Flags Buellton, California 93427 (805) 688-5581 www.PeaSoupAndersens.net.

The Hadsten House Inn and Spa are located at 1450 Mission Dr. Solvang,CA 93463 Phone: 805-688-3210 www.hadstenhouse.com.

For more Solvang lodging options, click here.




 

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