Story & Photos by Cheri Sicard
Covered In This Story:
 While
Scotsmen have always had a reputation for being thrifty, the current economic
climate of the UK has a reputation for being expensive for Americans.
Since I'm always being up to a challenge, I was determined to embark
on a "Thrifty Tour of Scotland" and had some very good results. This article
is by no means complete. I only had a week and there's still a lot of
Scotland to see, but this will help you get on your way to experiencing
this beautiful and fascinating country, without breaking the bank.
The first thing you'll need to find is inexpensive air fare. I was actually
able to get to Scotland free by flying courier (free courier flights are
very rare, but inexpensive ones are common). You may need to fly to London
(I know of only one courier company that goes to Scotland), where it is
a short, inexpensive train ride to Scotland. Follow
this link to find out all about flying courier.
If for whatever reason, you don't want to fly courier, check the travel
section of your Sunday newspaper to find the best deals. Generally speaking,
the further in advance you book the better deal you'll get. Many airlines
fly to Scotland (American, United, Virgin Atlantic). Personally, I have
to recommend that you avoid British Airways. I had an absolutely horrendous
experience with them, twice, which they have refused to take any responsibility
for. I have, however, had very good experiences flying American and United.
If you do need to get from London to Scotland, there are several options.
Bus is the cheapest, some numbers to call are:
- National Express London 0990 808080
- Silver Choice 013552 30403
- London Liner 0171 833 4472
Trains are a bit more expensive, but quicker. Call:
- British Rail London 0345 484950
- British Rail Edinburgh 0345 484950
Quickest yet are planes. There are price wars developing that might make
this an alternative (although most of the inexpensive flights leave from
airports on the outskirts of London). Call:
Scotland has wonderful public transportation, both within its major cities
and connecting them. For buses to almost anywhere in the UK go to St.
Andrews bus station in Edinburgh or Buchanan Bus Station in Glasgow. You
can also get a bus at the Glasgow Airport that goes directly to Edinburgh
(and vice versa).
For trains, Edinburgh's major station is Waverly and in Glasgow it's
the Queens Street Station (only five hours by train from London's Euston
Station). Check at these stations for all kinds of travel bargains like
the "Day Tripper" fare which allows one day's unlimited travel on ScotRail,
Glasgow Underground and most bus services in the Glasgow area.
There are lots of package deals such as this in the major cities as well
as with the rail and bus systems that cover the entire country. Call (in
Glasgow) 0141-332-7133 for more information.
Backpacker's Buses
 Another
option for getting around the country are "backpacker's buses", and no,
you don't have to be a backpacker to take advantage of this option. Haggis
Backpackers runs such a service which allows you to jump on and off
the bus when you wish, while covering approximately 1000 kilometers of
Scotland from the Highlands to the West Coast. The buses will drop you
at the front door of various hostels (more on this later in the article),
with frequent stops in between. Experienced tour guides give you the low
down on sites along the way.
This is a great and inexpensive way to see Scotland at your own pace.
You can hop on and off as many times as you wish, and spend as much time
as you like completing the bus's circuit.
If you're short of time, there are 3 day, 2 night adventure tours available
through Haggis. Haggis Tours leave from Edinburgh, call them at (country
code 44) 0131-557-9393 for more information, or write Haggis Backpacker
Ltd., 11 Blackfriars St., Edinburgh, EH1 1NB, Scotland. They offer a lot
of options, so ask for a brochure.
IMPORTANT: you don't have to be a backpacker or stay at hostels to take
advantage of this great inexpensive transportation.
Another option for getting around Scotland is renting (or hiring, as
the British say) a car. Since I only had a week total, I chose this option.
There are many Scottish rental car agencies and you can easily find one
at the airport or at major train stations. Another option is to set up
your rental car before you leave by calling Auto Europe at (800) 223-5555.
This great company had all kinds of specials and they even rent motorhomes!
Here's a link to the Auto Europe
website. 
A couple of things to be aware of before driving in Scotland (or anywhere
in the UK, for that matter). The driver's side is on the right and you
drive on the left side of the road. To make matters even worse, most rental
cars have standard (as opposed to automatic) transmissions. If you have
trouble with stick shifts (and remember, you will be shifting with your
left hand), leave the driving to someone else. You can request an automatic
car, but it is SIGNIFINCANTLY more expensive.
The left side driving wasn't too bad once I got used to it as most of
my driving took place in the country. I highly recommend you avoid driving
in the big cities as it's quite intimidating and public transportation
is so good, it really isn't necessary.
While renting a car was comparable in price to doing so in the United
States, gas was not. As much as we complain about gas prices here, we're
not even in the contest. It cost almost $40.00 (US) to fill the tank in
a tiny sub-compact car! Luckily, the entire country doesn't cover that
much territory, so I only needed to fill the tank twice in the entire
trip, and I covered a lot of ground.
Here are afew other pointers about driving in the UK:
- Seatbelts are the law, so buckle up.
- There is no general priority rule when approaching road junctions,
each individual junction is marked with either a red triangle "give
way" sign or a red "stop" sign. Some junctions will only have "give
way" markings on the road itself ( a white triangle with double dotted
white lines across the road).
- Many (and I do mean many) intersections will have "roundabouts". Those
of us from the northeast United States know these as rotaries (those
of you from the southern US have probably never seen such as thing in
your life!). A roundabout is a traffic circle with various offshoots,
used instead of the normal intersection. Drive around the roundabout
clockwise and signal left when you reach the exit you wish to use. "Mini
Roundabouts" are indicated by a round blue sign.
- In any roundabout situation, give way to traffic coming from the right,
including oncoming vehicles which may cross your path while turning
right.
- The emergency telephone number for police, fire or ambulance is
999.
Keep aware of what side you're supposed to be driving on and all should
be well. People tend to park on either side of the street in whichever
direction they are going, something we don't do in the States. This can
throw you, as you will see a car parked on the left hand side of the street,
facing you. When in Rome...
 All
the standard hotel chains (Holiday Inn, Hilton, etc.) exist in Scotland,
but they're not for the thrifty traveler. There are, however, tons of
Bed and Breakfast Hotels that are very reasonable. Some have "en
suite" (bathroom in your room) facilities, while others have shared
bathrooms down the hall, although you'll almost always have a sink in
your room. You can find very decent rooms of this sort for about $35.00
- $50.00 (US) per night and that includes a hearty breakfast the following
morning.
These hotels are easy to find by simply by walking down the street, or
by going to a Thomas Cook office in the airport or train station -- you
tell them what you want and how much you want to spend and for a service
charge of about $5.00 they find you a hotel. In order to avoid a service
charge here are a few Bed & Breakfast hotels to get you started:
Glasgow - Rennie Mackintosh Hotel - This is a gorgeous place to stay
decorated in the art nouveau style of Scotland's most famous architect.
Located just a short few minutes walk from the heart of Glasgow, this
charming hotel is a very suitable home base.
- Rennie Mackintosh Hotel: 218/220 Renfrew St. Glasgow G3 6TX
- Phone: 0141-333-9992 FAX: 0141-333-9995
There are lots of other B&B's up and down Renfrew street. Take a walk
and I'm sure you'll find a great place to stay.
Edinburgh - The Argus Hotel - A bit closer to the thick of things
(but a bit more expensive, about $65.00 US) is the Argus Hotel, a B&B
that also has a fully licensed bar on premises.
- Argus Hotel: 14 Coates Gardens, Edinburgh EH12 5LB
- Phone: 0131-337-6159 FAX: 01310337-6809
There are many other fine B&B's in the neighborhood. You can't walk a
block without finding another. With that in mind, I would avoid the
Glenora Hotel (in the same neighborhood as The Argus), for while the
rooms were fine (albeit a bit pricey), I found the management to be rude.
This is the only negative B&B experience I have ever had in the UK. Perhaps
they were just having a bad day.
Inverness - Heathcote Bed & Breakfast - Rhona Lamont is your hostess
at this comfortable B&B in Inverness (very near Loch Ness). Heathcote
is one of many in a long row of B&B's on Glenurquhart Road, but be advised
during heavy tourist season -- most of the summer as well as school holidays
-- they all book up, so reservations are a must!
- Heathcote B&B: 59 Glenurquhart Rd., Inverness IV3 5PB
- Phone: 01463-243-650
Hostels
 There
are so many hostels scattered throughout Scotland, you need never stay
in a hotel or B&B. They are a very safe and affordable (some as little
as $12.00 a night) lodging alternative. Contrary to popular opinion, you
do not have to be a student to stay in a hostel, all ages are welcome.
Hostels are a wonderful way for people traveling alone to make new friends
as the dorm style rooms and communal areas really encourage socialization.
Not only are hostels cheap, they can be interesting. Two of Scotland's
hostels -- Loch Lomond and Carbisdale -- are converted castles, complete
with ghosts!
Carbisdale Castle also contains a fabulous art collection. Where
else can you spend a night in a castle for such a small cost?
If you're a privacy freak, then hostels probably aren't for you. The
rooms are clean and comfortable, but "dorm style" (bunk beds, men with
men, women with women). Hostels also have rules: no drugs, no alcohol
and some have curfews (although they are so late you won't even notice
them).
Youth hostels do book up during busy periods as well, so reservations
are suggested.
Visit the Scottish Youth Hostels
Association web site for more details and reservations.
 There's
lots of eating and drinking options for the frugal traveler in Scotland.
Some of the best bargains are the local pubs, which serve hearty fare:
soups, stews, sandwiches, fish and chips and the ever popular national
dish: haggis. No one would tell me what's actually in haggis for fear
that I wouldn't eat it, but it does involve some sort of organ meat. There
is also a vegetarian version of Haggis that is actually not bad. Give
one of them a try as it's part of the Scottish Experience.
The pubs also have a nice selection of brews to try. I don't recommend
mixed drinks in the UK, because they are pricey and each shot is strictly
measured, by law, so you can never meet a generous bartender.
Many of the pubs also have historic significance. One of the best of
these is Edinbugh's Ensign Ewart (521 Lawnmarket, The Royal Mile)
which has more than three hundred years of history within its walls. Designed
in the 17'th century and named after Ensign Charles Ewart, who single-handedly
captured the standard of the famous French Invincibles at the battle of
Waterloo, the bar was originally situated in the cellar of the present
pub. A lot of famous people have passed through the Ensign Ewart's doors
in its long and colorful history including noted authors Robert Louis
Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns. With great food, wonderful
drinks, live music and a dramatic history, how can you lose.
 The
Eerie Pubs are another great Edinburgh eating and drinking attraction.
A collection of four macabre themed pubs based on local legends, these
restaurants are fun and inexpensive. Get your "eerie pubs card" stamped
at each of them when you buy drinks and get a way cool "I Survived The
Eerie Pubs" t-shirt. The four eerie pubs are:
- Sneaky Pete's (73 Cowgate, Edinburgh, phone: 0131022501757) - Sneaky
Pete was evidently an infamous Edinburgh body snatcher circa 1790.
- Maggie Dickson's (92 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, phone: 0131-225-6601)
Maggie was hanged for allegedly murdering her newborn baby, but the
hanging didn't actually kill her and she was allowed to live out her
days in peace.
- The Old Fire Station Pub (52 West Port, Edinburgh, phone: 0131-228-4543)
- Dedicated to the ghastly fires that have ravaged Edinburgh over the
years.
- Jekyll & Hyde Pub (112 Hanover St. Edinburgh, phone: 0131-228-4543)
- Obviously themed around the famous Robert Louis Stevenson story.
If pubs are not your thing, the usual array of low priced fast food chains
are available.
Fish & Chips are another UK staple that can be had from any number of
street side take-outs. My Scottish friends Charles Cameron and Alex Wallace
say don't wait and take fish and chips home or to your hotel, they won't
be as good. Fish and Chips must be eaten "on the hoof"!
 Scotland's
two major cities, Glasgow and Edinburgh have a lot to offer tourists and
chances are you'll be spending some time in at least one of them. A very
efficient, as well as thrifty, way to see the major sites in either of
these cities is via tour bus.
I'm not usually one for guided tours, but these offer you tons of freedom.
Basically you hop on the bus, pay the driver (about $10.00 US) and you've
got transportation for the day. The buses have set routes with stops at
all the major tourist areas and attractions. You can hop on and off the
bus as much as you like and be secure that there will always be another
bus along in about 15-30 minutes. You can spend as much time as you like
exploring the things that are interesting to you and have a running commentary
about the city's historical sites while on the bus. It's a great deal
that's hard to beat!
You can find the buses lined up around Waverly Station in Edinburgh or
Queen's Street Station in Glasgow. The Edinburgh classic tour offers discounts
of two adults for the price of one for tours beginning after 2:10 PM.
For more information on these tours contact Lothian Region Transport,
27 Hanover St, Edinburgh EH2 2DL or phone 0131-554-4494.
Edinburgh also has a variety of interesting, inexpensive walking tours
available that will appeal to a variety of tastes. There are historic
tours, literary tours and a variety of ghost tours. Edinburgh is reported
to be one of the most haunted cities on earth. Mercat Tours (phone:
0131-661-4541) is a good operator and they have many tours to choose from.
The Ghosts of Edinburgh
 I
took the ghost tour and found it to be extremely informativem historically
more than supernaturally, and a lot of fun. Frances, our tour guide, obviously
enjoys her job. She was at once enthusiastic, comedic and dramatic. Her
presentation of information ceratinly made the tour much more entertaining
than I would have expected.
The ghost tour includes a venture into the city's underground vaults,
which were formerly part of Edinburgh proper. This was a very "spooky"
area and I have to admit my camera was doing some strange things here
that it had never done before or since. In one particular corridor, the
camera simply refused to shoot any pictures, regardless of what setting
I had it on (manuel, automatic). What does it mean? I haven't the slightest
idea.
The most fascinating tour that Mercat offers is Mary King's Close.
You can only experience this area on a tour as it is not open to the general
public. A "close" in Scottish lingo, is the narrow area or alley between
two buildings. Mary King's Close was one of Edinburgh's most famous, or
should I say infamous? Last inhabited in 1645, the Edinburgh City Chambers
building was built over the close in 1753. During the time of the black
plague, however, Mary King's Close was a very crowded residential and
business district. The neighborhood was so infected with the horrible
disease that it was closed off and quarantined until all of its residents
died. Needless to say, it is reported to be extremely haunted. The tour
will take you to underground rooms and past residences that have been
deserted for thousands of years. You'll learn a lot about medieval history
and you might even have a ghostly experience!
I'm not going to go into the individual tourist attractions that each
of these cities have to offer as there are a myriad of guide books to
help you decide what you'd like to do. Even without a guide book, if you
hop on one of the buses I've talked about, you'll fit in most of the important
sights.
 Just
a short ride from either of Scotland's major cities is Stirling,
home of Stirling Castle and Stirling Bridge.
Those of you who have seen Mel Gibson's Braveheart will
remember Stirling Bridge as the seen of one of William Wallace's finest
battles. You can find the national William Wallace Monument just
one mile northeast of the town center (open March to October and weekends
in February and November).
The town of Stirling has many other historic sites as well, so you might
want to take some time to explore here.
You could visit castles all day, every day in Scotland and still not
have time to see them all. So if you have to pick and choose, Stirling
Castle is a good one. The castle was a strategic military base during
the 13'th and 14'th centuries. Restored to much of its former splendor,
Stirling Castle also has many historical displays depicting life in earlier
times. Also part of Stirling Castle is the excellent museum of the Argyll
and Sutherland Highlanders. The castle is open year round and guided tours
are available.
Traveling on from Stirling, you'll soon come to Loch Lomond, of
the legendary song fame. Loch Lomond is a wonderful place for nature lovers
as there's lots of hiking, biking and fishing as well as cruises on the
beautiful lake. Remember, for frugal lodgings, the Loch Lomond Youth Hostel
is a restored castle. If you're really brave, ask to stay in room 27,
it's reportedly haunted.
 Heading
north towards the Highlands you will drive along the coast of Loch
Ness. You can search the twenty three mile long loch for monsters
while en-route, but a stop at Castle Urquhart is a must. Perched
on the edge of Loch Ness, the picturesque castle ruins are the site of
the first "Nessie" sighting way back in the 6'th century. Walking around
the ruins of such an ancient dwelling gives one an eerie feeling, even
more so than at some of the castles that have been restored.
A short hop up the road from Castle Urquhart is the "Official Loch Ness
Exhibition Center". Everything you've ever wanted to know about the Loch
Ness monster is here, with the exception of conclusive proof that it's
real. Nonetheless, the exhibit is well worth taking in, plus you can get
some nifty, kitschy Nessie souvenirs.
After leaving the Loch Ness area, I headed further north, as I wanted
to spend a night at Carbisdale Castle, a youth hostel which was
reported to have several ghosts in residence.
Carbisdale, even with the ghosts aside, is a splendid place to spend
a night.  Before
settling in for the night though, I ventured north to the quaint seaside
town of Brora, where, along with great seaside views, I toured
an interesting whiskey distillery.
Clynelish Distillery makes scotch whiskey for some of the world's largest
brands -- Johnnie Walker and Cutty Sark come immediately to mind -- as
well as a very nice single malt under their own label. The single malt
has a very limited production, so you probably won't find it in the states,
but if you happen to be anywhere near Brora, it's worth the trip to pick
up a bottle.
The Clynelish Distillery also hosts a fascinating tour that takes visitors
through every step of the whiskey making process, including a taste at
the finish! The staff here was so friendly and knowledgeable, it would
be a pleasure to go back again just to visit with them.
These are just a few of the many sights and attractions a drive through
Scotland can supply. I can't wait to go back and explore some of the islands
off the coast of Scotland as well as other cities that I, unfortunately,
just didn't have time to get to.
Be sure to also read:
An Eerie Tour of Scotland
 Fabulous
Travel Recommends
Fodor's
Exploring Scotland Guide
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