Welcome To Thailand Rickshaw drivers waiting for customers Tourists stroll the pristine Phra Nang beach An eerie cove in Krabi An eerie cove in Krabi Cliffs rise above Phra Nang beach in Krabi Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, Bangkok To see the Thailand slide show again click "Reload"

Thailand's popularity has grown by leaps and bounds in recent years, and for good reasons. Ancient ruins, gleaming Buddhist temples, tropical beaches, and an array of adventurous activities are plentiful and value-priced.

Food, transportation, entertainment, and lodging are all a terrific deal by western standards. Unlike some bargain destinations however, Thailand's tourism industry is quite advanced and the hassles are few. The internal air, bus, and train networks are comfortable and efficient. Still, the most expensive possible train seat (an air-conditioned double cabin) from Bangkok to Chiang Mai is only $44 and a flight is around $80. A long-distance air-conditioned bus ride will seldom top fifteen dollars.

The country's service is internationally renowned: lists of the top-10 hotels in the world typically include three or four from Bangkok and attentive service is a priority ingrained at establishments of every price level.

Food

Thailand's cuisine is one of the world's most distinctive, with lemongrass, coconut milk, peanuts, and fiery chilies creating an oral kaleidoscope of flavors. People who love spicy food can go wild here, but contrary to popular belief, the majority of dishes are not spicy at all. If you want to liven up a dish you can usually find chilies on the table, for a condiment.

Where the locals eat, a meal will seldom set you back more than two bucks and the food is usually more authentic than the "westernized" tourist spots. Prices go up according to location and atmosphere; even in Thailand, a fine dining experience in a five-star hotel can hit the $100 mark for two, but that's way out of proportion to the norm.

Sightseeing & Shopping

The sightseeing possibilities in old Siam (as it was once known) are nearly endless. In Bangkok alone there are over 400 wats (Buddhist temples) dotted around the city and elsewhere the country's 800 years of architectural history are well preserved, especially in the former Siamese capitals of Sukothai and Ayutthaya. Geographically, there are mountains, jungles, and islands to explore and the beaches are fantastic.

The country is also a shopper's paradise, with great buys on silk, clothing, woven bags, lacquerware, silver jewelry, and handicrafts. If you know what you're doing, it's also a good place to buy gems.

Bargaining is essential--if you pay the first price quoted, you've paid too much. Think of it as a game and don't lose your cool: confrontation is taboo in the "Land of Smiles".

Night life is often of the sleazy sort--Bangkok and Pattaya are packed with massage parlors, strip joints, and thinly disguised brothels--but there are plenty of alternatives, ranging from loud and frenetic bars to classy supper clubs.

Bangkok

This sprawling hive of activity is exasperating and beautiful all at once. Growing like a disease, it's strangled by what is probably the world's worst traffic and the resulting pollution is hard to take for long. Once inside a serene temple, the Grand Palace, or a tantalizing restaurant, however, the negative images quickly fade.

There are seemingly a million things to see here and fortunately, many of the most interesting are on the river taxi routes. Though some people feel an instant need to escape the congestion and noise, it would be a shame not to spend at least a few days here. Besides, this is by far the best place in the country to shop, eat, and go out at night.

Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai, located in the north, is a world away from Bangkok. It's the second largest city, but with a population of less than a quarter million, it's only a tiny fraction of the size. Even so, it's nicknamed the "Temple City" because it has almost as many wats as the capital.

If you don't mind detouring to a few "factories" that are also shops, a driver will take you on a tour of the most interesting temples for just a few dollars.

Many hill-tribe treks originate here and there are a lot of other interesting side trips from the area. Up here, the air is a little cooler, the people are friendlier, and the city itself is easy to navigate.

Ko Samui and Krabi

Most beach package tours head to either Pattaya or Phuket, but both areas are overdeveloped and overrated. For scenic beauty and a lack of ugly high-rises, head to the island of Ko Samui off the east coast or Krabi on the west coast.

Ko Samui is a large island ringed with picturesque beaches and coconut palms, with plenty of screaming bargains in the lodging and restaurant departments. Watersports, fishing trips, and the usual sun and fun are plentiful.

Krabi comprises a fantastic coastline of dramatic cliffs, ancient caves, and strangely-shaped islands. (The James Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun was shot nearby.) Snorkeling and diving are quite good in the area and there are dozens of interesting islands to explore by boat.

Practicalities

The following is extensive information about visiting Thailand, especially the areas covered in our article. The information and prices were accurate when this article was written in 1998. Plese check before you go for changes.

GETTING TO THAILAND
All flight paths lead to Bangkok, so there's plenty of airfare competition. Delta, United, Northwest, and Thai Airways all fly direct from US cities. Many other foreign airlines (such as Malaysian Air and Singapore Airlines) fly there with an extra stop on the way. Tickets from "bucket-shop" agencies are often under $1000 round trip. Bangkok is a stop on most around-the-world packages, which start as low as $1299: contact Air Brokers Intl. (800-883-3273).

There is direct train service from Malaysia and Singapore and bus service from Laos, Myanmar (Burma), and Cambodia.

GETTING AROUND:
Out-of-date guidebooks say you must bargain on taxi fares, but this is now true only at the airport (expect to pay $8-$15 from there). The meter starts at around $1.50 and runs on time, not distance. Noisy 3-wheeled tuk-tuks require fierce negotiation and are only good for short jaunts. River taxis are the most pleasant and are about 25 cents each way. If you can figure out the bus routes, you can ride with the locals for 15¢ regular, 25¢ for air-conditioned, or 80¢ on the VIP Microbus.

BANGKOK PRACTICALITIES

WARNING: Renting a car in Bangkok would be pure masochism.

PHONE: Country Code 66 Area Code 2

HOTELS:
Overbuilding has resulted in a major hotel glut and intense competition here, especially at the top end. Nearly everyone offers a special package and bargaining is certainly in order. Avoiding a traffic jam should be your primary factor when choosing a location. The following are all a short hop from major attractions. A combined 15% tax is added to non-inclusive rates.

• THE SILOM PLAZA HOTEL (236-8441) is a comfortable, modern hotel with a pool, health club, bar, and two restaurants, near the river and night life. $75--$112+ incl. bkfst.
• TOWER INN (234-4051) provides a big-hotel feeling for the price of a small inn. The rooftop pool and health club look over the whole city. Huge, sunny, modern rooms have panoramic views. $60+
• WALL STREET INN (233-4144) is a small hotel located on a cul-de-sac near the Patpong nightlife area. Facilities are limited to one restaurant (with room service) and a traditional Thai massage center, but comfortable rooms feature cable TV and mini-bars. $46 inclusive.
• ROYAL HOTEL (222-9111) is a grand old hotel with a spiral staircase leading to European inn style rooms. Several restaurants, a large pool, and the closest location to the Grand Palace. $52+
• ASIA HOTEL (251-0808) is 640-room complex in the Siam Square area near infinite shopping plazas, the World Trade Center, and some attractions. Hotel features everything from tennis to swimming to billiards. $60--95+
  

BUDGET LODGING CHOICES:
Most $4--$6 cheapie guesthouses are conveniently located in the Khao San Road backpacker area. For a step up, try Soi Kasemsan, a quiet side-street off Rama 1 Road in the Siam Square area, where there are many small, comfortable inns that are a terrific value. Most are in the $12 to $24 per night range.

THE RENO (215-0026) has a pool, A-ONE INN (215-3029) is a cozy place packed with reading materials, and WHITE LODGE (216-8867) has the best restaurant. MUANGPHOL MANSION (215-0033) is the only one with an elevator and THE BED AND BREAKFAST (215-3004) throws in a free morning meal.

SHOPPING:
You'll never have a problem finding places to spend your money, but if you're looking for real quality items, try the New Road area near The Oriental Hotel or the River City complex by the Royal Orchid Sheraton. For woven bags, sandals, hill-tribe clothing, and the like, head for the Khao San Road area of Banglampu. Silom Road stalls do a brisk business selling knock-off brand names like "Lives" jeans and "Kalvin Kline" shirts for $4--$8.

The Chatuchuk Weekend Market in the north of Bangkok is a massive bazaar where you can buy practically anything, whether it's clothing, carvings, tapestries, or an exotic pet. Hundreds of tailors dot the city and for as little as $100 you can buy a custom-made suit. Ladies can bring in a photo from a fashion magazine and have it copied in Thai silk or any other fabric.

EATING OUT:
Many visitors find that the meals they bought at a street stall for a dollar or two were some of the best they had. Stomach problems are rare if you avoid salads, raw fruit and tap water--the health codes are quite stringent and ingredients are always fresh.

At the other extreme, there are many gourmet Thai restaurants noted for their attentive service and stunning presentation. BUSSARACUM (235-8915) and THANYING (236-4361) serve dishes once kept secret, reserved for royalty within the palace walls. $20--$40 per person plus drinks.

Bangkok's hotels employ some of the best chefs in Asia. BENJARONG (236-0450) at the Dusit Thani, THE SPICE MARKET (251-6127) at the Regent Bangkok, and SIMILAN (253-0355) at the Siam Inter-Continental are a few of the most renowned. Most hotels offer special weekend buffets for $8--$15 p.p. and afternoon "high teas" for $3--$7. Check the Bangkok Post for the latest deals.

For cultural dancing shows with dinner, try the MANEEYA LOTUS ROOM (251-0383), SILOM VILLAGE TRADE CENTER (234-4581), or dinner shows at the top 5-star hotels.

CHIANG MAI

Phone: Country Code 66, Area Code 053

Thailand: Chiang Mai & Chiang Rai - A Guide To Northern Thailand Web Site

GETTING AROUND:
The town can be navigated by bicycle ($1.50--$2 per day), or motorbike ($4--$8 per day), plus taxis and tuk-tuks ($2--$4 around town) are on every corner.

Avis (221-316) and Hertz (270-184) rent cars from $48 to $120 per day, but if you bargain with the private companies on Moonmuang road it'll be half that much. Chiang Mai is surrounded by beautiful, mountainous countryside, so it's a great place for a drive.

HOTELS:
Rooms at the WESTIN (275-300) and PANG SUAN KAEW (224-333) can reach $160 or more in the high season, but there are constant specials everywhere. Hotels are springing up like mushrooms here, so rates should remain competitive for years to come.

• PORNPING TOWER (270-110) is a 20-story complex offering luxury amenities and a superb location near the night bazaar and the old city. 6 restaurants, 3 lounges, large outdoor pool, and more. Every room has an excellent view. Published rates are $72+, but can drop as low as $40 inclusive when specials are running.
• LANNA PALACE (270-722) is a new property located south of the old city, offering a pool, several restaurants and lounges, and meeting facilities. International-standard rooms contain TVs and mini-bars. $64
• SRI TOKYO (213-899) is a sparse, modern hotel located by the northwest wall of the old city. Rooms contain mini-bars and TVs and those above the third floor offer good city or mountain views. Pool and restaurant on the premises. $45
• CHIANG MAI LAKESIDE VILLA (322-061) is outside of town, but this collection of vintage teak houses by a lake are a good choice for families: they offer several two, three, and four-bed villas for $60--$96. All have A/C and there is a pool.
• LANNA THAI GUEST HOUSE (275-563) is a good budget choice, offering simple air-conditioned motel-style rooms for $16 per night. There are dozens of simpler places charging $3--$8 for a fan-cooled room.

SHOPPING:
Prices here are seldom cheaper than in Bangkok, but there's a better variety of hill-tribe articles and you can sometimes find better quality. Taxi drivers will take you on a tour of the local factories for next to nothing, hoping they'll earn a commission from a few purchases. It's an interesting day and you can find some unique items along the way. The ever-expanding Night Bazaar runs along Chang Klan Rd. Bargain diligently and check the quality closely before you buy. If you want to make sure your dollars make a difference, buy hill-tribe products from Thai Tribal Crafts (241-043) or Hill-Tribe Products Promotion Center (277-743). Both are non-profit enterprises that benefit the villages directly

EATING OUT:
The variety of food in Chiang Mai almost equals that of Bangkok and it's much easier to get around. For good basic dishes, the night stalls and open-air markets serve northern specialties for 50¢ to $1.50 per dish. A step above in atmosphere are The Smiling Monkey (277-538) and Kaf (212-717), which both serve Thai and European dishes in breezy settings. Dinner for two will total less than $6, but as with the rest of Thailand, a few beers will double the bill.

For something totally different, try Kaithong Jungle Food (276-584) for exotic dishes like python, cobra, turtle, and crocodile. $3--$9 per person plus drinks.

Thailand is tough on vegetarians, but they can find solace at The Whole Earth Restaurant (211-026). They serve a large selection of Thai and Indian dishes in a peaceful location. $4--$10 per person plus drinks.

For fine dining, Le Coq D'Or (282-024) has been the premier spot for 21 years. $9--$20 p.p. plus drinks.

A unique Chiang Mai experience is the "Kantoke" restaurant. Diners sit in low seats and sample northern "sticky rice" dishes while enjoying traditional hill-tribe dance performances. Programs are printed in eight languages and the cost is usually around $12 p.p. plus drinks. Kantoke Palace (272-757) and Old Chiang Mai Cultural Center (274-093) are two of the most popular.

KO SAMUI

PHONE: Country Code 66 Area Code 77

GETTING THERE & AROUND:
There are direct flights from Bangkok for $80. Trains stop at Surat Thani, where you must then board a ferry ($22 first class, combined total). Bus/ferry combination tickets from Bangkok can be found for as little as $6. On the island, you get around by taxi or the efficient local mini-bus system.

HOTELS:
CHAWENG BEACHCOMBER (422-041) is a luxury 60-room hotel on the island's liveliest beach. Rooms feature all expected amenities and then some, while the resort offers a pool, hot tub, beach bar, and excellent restaurant employing both Thai and European chefs. Unlimited nightlife and water sports nearby. $60--$90 in high season.

CHAYA LAI RESORT (425-290) is a unique resort on a quiet northern beach. Large teak bungalows modeled after traditional Thai houses have wraparound decks, TV's, telephones, and refrigerators. Resort features a large pool, hot tub, rooftop bar, and restaurant. $52--$80 incl. bkfst. and taxes.

MAE NAM RESORT (272-222), near the Chaya Lai, is a collection of bungalows offering excellent value. Resort amenities are limited to one bar and restaurant, but air-conditioned oceanfront rooms have spacious verandahs and superb views. $28 inclusive.

EATING OUT:
Every beach has a volume of eateries to choose from, with plenty of Thai, continental, and pseudo-American food on offer. Expect to pay $2--$5 p.p. plus drinks at most restaurants and $6--$14 at the top-end places. Coconut soups and curries and local seafood are the main specialties.

KRABI

PHONE:
Country Code 66, Area Code 77

GETTING THERE & AROUND:
Krabi's remoteness keeps crowds at bay and prices low: it can only be reached by a long boat, car, or bus ride. The closest real airport is Phuket's and a two or three hour transfer is required from there ($14--$30). Trains stop at Surat Thani and Trang, where a bus connection is available for $6--$10. A bus trip direct from Bangkok is $14---$22. Once there, most people either walk or take a boat between beaches. You can also rent a motorbike for around $6--$10 per day.

HOTELS:
PHRA NANG INN (612-073) is a lush, eco-friendly hotel constructed mainly from natural materials; the light fixtures are even made of shells! Amenities include a swimming pool, an excellent restaurant, a pub, sea kayak rentals, a scuba center, and boat excursion trips. Attractive beachfront location and attentive service make this a special place. $32--$52+

KRABI RESORT (612-160) is a large beachfront resort comprised of 40 hotel rooms and 35 bungalows. Facilities include a pool, oceanfront restaurant, beach bar, and watersports. Hotel rooms are average, but bungalows are quite large, containing TV's, mini-bars, and large verandahs. Wheelchair accessible. $60--$94 inclusive.

SAND-SEA BUNGALOWS (611-944) is located on a stunning lagoon reached only by boat ($2). Clean, well-constructed bungalows are basic, but the setting is spectacular. A restaurant and tour counter are on the premesis. Bungalows 101 through 105 are the best. $8--$15 inclusive.

EATING OUT:
On the beach road at Ao Nang, Lotta's and Ao-Nang Cuisine are popular year-round favorites while The Last Café is in a great secluded spot by the ocean and cliffs. ($1.50--$5 p.p. plus drinks at all of them).

Excellent fresh seafood is served at Phra-Nang Inn and Krabi Resort, and during the high season it's easy to find everything from pizza to chow mein. At Railay Beach, each set of bungalows has a separate restaurant serving Thai, Chinese, and European food for $2--$6 p.p. plus drinks. Viewpoint Bungalows has spectacular views from its rooftop terrace.

Be Sure to also Read: Navigating Bangok's Don Muang Airport by Steven Bailey.