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Dhaba Indian Cuisine - The Return of Out to Lunch in New York

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By Clint Brownfield
Photos: Rick Eggers
Posted March 25th, 2009
image009.jpgThese tough times have made all of us even more on the lookout for bargains, or at least good value, when dining out. The original premise for this column was: lunch for under $10 in New York City, excluding alcohol, tip and tax; a stroll through an interesting surrounding neighborhood and dessert/coffee after the stroll.   After ten years, we still haven't raised that ten buck minimum and there are still great places to eat in NYC!

March 2009, NEW YORK CITY, NEW YORK, USA --  I just received an urgent email from my pal Anne. It said: “What was the name and approximate location of the Indian place you liked so much? Going to be in that hood (I think) tonight and am looking for a place to eat. Thanks!

I immediately replied: “Dhaba--108 Lex., bet. 27-28.”

A few weeks ago I rediscovered an area in Manhattan that took me back to my very first week of living in New York and in that process I found a wonderful restaurant called Dhaba, where you can feast on delectable north Indian food—for UNDER $10. Go!

dhaba indian cuisine, new york city restaurantsI’ve lived in New York nearly 35 years after moving from Missouri to attend graduate school at Pratt Institute. After all these years, including the last ten years circling the globe as a travel writer (food, too) I’m still madly in love with New York City—and the love affair has always featured food, in what is the self-declared food capital of the world. And, I believe that it is. I’ve had just as much fun exploring the foods of the world, right here in NYC, as I have had dining at the best and most intriguing places around the globe.

Manhattan, where I live, and the city’s other four boroughs, provide us glimpses into so many types of international cuisines that the selections are virtually endless. We smugly think: If it isn’t available in New York, then it doesn’t exist. All I know is that it’s just as easy to buy lemongrass here as it is in Bangkok.

Meanwhile, back to the food of northern India. Dhaba, a few blocks south of Manhattan’s Murray Hill, is at the southern end of what is sometimes referred to as Curry Hill, due to the number of Indian restaurants, spice shops and stores offering saris, fabric, and decorative items from the Sub Continent.

Inexpensive New York City Restaurants - Dhaba Indian CuisineA dhaba is a truck stop in India, and Dhaba, the restaurant, is a stylized version of its namesake. Bolts of sari fabric line the walls of the rectangular restaurant, with two or three community tables in the middle and tables for two/four along the sides. A festive bar is the focal point at the end of the room—all illuminated by large clear glass globe light bulbs. Artsy!

For me, our delectable dinner was made even more enjoyable by the attention paid to us by Daya Chandolia, Dhaba’s assistant manager, who was born and raised in India and has made his way to New York via St. Louis, MO—my home state. Daya’s enthusiasm about food is infectious and our dinner wound up being a fun and tasty learning experience.

One of the great things about Dhaba, and perhaps a nod to a truck stop which is open 24 hours a day, is that the menu is the same for lunch and dinner and the prices are also the same—but there are specials during the day. There is a lunch buffet each day for $9.95 and specials each day that include an entrée with sides of rice, lentils (dal) and naan bread for $8.95, excluding beverage, dessert, tip and tax. There is a buffet on Sundays at $12.95.

New York City Restaurants -- DhabaThe night photographer Rick Eggers and I dined at Dhaba, we got to try several small portions of a representative of chef-owner Shiva Natarajan’s starters and entrees (see photos). For me, the starter-standout was kurkuri bhindi, which consists of thinly sliced okra dusted with corn flour and quickly stir-fried with red onions, lime and chaat masala. This simple, and quick preparation takes the slickness out of the okra and can almost be eaten as a finger food. I also loved sarson ka saag, a vegetarian side dish of seasoned pureed spinach and mustard greens. Good, and good for you, too!

When they say man cannot live by eating bread alone, “they” have not seen the menu at Dhaba—which lists 11 kinds of bread including poori, which blows up to almost the size of a football when quickly deep-fried. Fun for kids of all ages!

Although there are many entrees that feature meat, usually served in a typically thick north Indian gravey/sauce, one is tempted to go entirely vegetarian during a meal. In fact, the largest section on the menu is devoted to vegetarian dishes, and vegan options are also readily available—just ask.

The meat dishes served at Dhaba feature lamb, chicken, goat and seafood. No beef or pork is served in the restaurant. I can heartily recommend what I sampled: curried lamb (achar gosht), chicken curry and lamb kabobs. A wide selection of British curry house dishes are also offered in a nod to the places people have enjoyed in London for years. I can’t imagine anyone who would not be able to find something to love on Dhaba’s menu.

New York City Restaurants -- Dhaba, Lexington AveExecutive Chef Manuel Butler is the mastermind behind this simple, yet complex, cuisine and has a light touch when it comes to traditional spices like coriander, cumin, dried red chilies, turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon, anise seed, etc. The food of northern India is traditionally moderately spicy, but the kitchen at Dhaba will gladly prepare dishes to individual taste from very mild to really hot—to be washed down with Kingfisher beer (on tap) or one of their nifty little lychee martinis.

To further whet your appetite before your trip to Dhaba, go to www.highwaydhaba.com and click on “take out menu”.

A couple of weeks after our dinner I popped in during lunch one weekday to say hello to Daya and was not surprised to find Dhaba, which was opened in the fall of 2008, doing a very brisk business—I don’t think there was an empty seat in the house. And, my pal Anne is still thanking me for the Dhaba recommendation.

After Dining at Dhaba

After lunch (or dinner), stroll up and down Lexington Avenue, from 30th St. to 27th. St. and explore Curry Hill and it’s side streets, where you’ll enjoy the exotic aromas emanating from the spice shops, much the same as I did nearly 35 years ago, when I attended graduate school at Pratt Institute, which was then at 30th and Lex. (It’s since moved to the Puck Building).

While you’re out and about, do drop into one of New York’s principle spice shops, Kalustyan’s, at 123 Lexington Ave. Since 1944, this foodie Mecca has been providing New York’s best chefs and their home-cook counterparts with a dazzling array of herbs and spices from all over the world. There are, on any given day, 30 different kinds of dried whole chilies and chili powders, 180 varieties of tea and 50 kinds of coffee, among countless other items to spice up your life. When the name “Kalustyan’s” is uttered, all New Yorkers say: “I love that place”. I don’t think even the Yankees, Mets or the Rangers enjoy this degree of fan loyalty.   There is a small place to dine on the second floor where you can enjoy a wonderful vegetarian lunch or just have a sip of coffee or tea and watch the people below, who are undoubtedly enjoying their walk through this fascinating and classic New York neighborhood.

History buffs will take note of the fact that the building that houses Kalustyan’s was once the home of Chester A. Arthur, 21st president of the United States. I’m pretty sure he too would love his old neighborhood today and would happily shop at Kalustyan’s and would also recommend Dhaba to his close friends. He’d also think my pal Anne is pretty cute, too.
Practicalities

Dhaba
is located at 108 Lexington Avenue (Between 27 & 28th Street) in New York City, NY 10016.  Phone 212-679-1284 or click to www.highwaydhaba.com.

Find Kalustyan’s, at 123 Lexington Ave. n New York City, NY 10016.  Phone 212-685-345 or visit their website at www.kalustyans.com.


Clint Brownfield, Travel Writer, New York CityClint Brownfield (pictured right), a "classic" baby-boomer, is a travel, food and beverage writer based in New York and has spent the last 10 years circling the globe--reporting from all seven continents. Clint is always on the lookout for local attractions, food (and beverages) to recommend to his readers, viewers and listeners--for national publications, network news and The Erik Hastings Travel Show--WABC AM NY and the Talk Radio Syndicate.

Rick Eggers is a photographer based in New York City.




 

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