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So began my tour of Lake Charles Louisiana by local historian AC Bourdier. “It really was far too dangerous to live here then,” he continued.
Tales of pirates and buried treasure began with the arrival of the first French settlers in the 1760s. Jean Lafitte made the waterways around Lake Charles his inland hideaway. Legend says he hid his fabulous treasures here. People still search the bayous and riverbanks for Lafitte's contraband to this day. As our journey continued we’d hear stories that rival any adventure movie script ever made.
Lake Charles’ early history includes English, French, Spanish, African and Caribbean influences. According to Bourdier, his hometown was and still is a harmonious place to live with all races and religions happily coexisting.
In 1803 Southwest Louisiana was no man’s land – east of the Mississippi River was part of the Louisiana Purchase, but west was yet unclaimed by the United States. Several Native American tribes inhabited the area. Next to arrive were lumber and cattle barons who settled Louisiana and Texas’s prairie country. At one time the Lake Charles area housed 29 major lumber mills, which resulted in over 300,000 acres of stumps that in turn spawned a turpentine industry in the 1940s. A healthy rice industry that still thrives today later became another spin-off of the harvested land.
A lot of the Lake Charles of yesteryear still exists in the Charpentier Historical District. Covering 46 blocks and including over 800 homes in downtown, you can step back in time with a self-guided walking or driving tour of one of the finest collections of Victorian architecture in Louisiana, dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. In addition to the Victorians, historic homes in the district range from simple bungalows to imposing Greek revival style mansions and nearly everything in between. Perhaps most telling about the personality of Lake Charles is that these diverse structures coexist in harmony. Small working people’s cottages stand amongst large middle class homes and towering gothic mansions.
The extensive use of solid pine and cypress in the construction of these solid homes -- still standing strong despite well over a century of wear and urban neglect (and later restoration), not to mention hurricanes, bears permanent testament to the quality of the region’s lumber.
In many instances a mélange of architectural styles are represented in a single dwelling. Historian AC Bourdier explained that this was because until the 1920’s no architects lived in Lake Charles. Instead residents turned to local carpenters to help them design and build their homes. These “charpentiers” (borrowed from the French) gave their clients a lot of options to “mix and match” in order to create their own version of the perfect domicile.
You can pick up free self guided historic tour tour brochures at the Southwest Louisiana Convention and Visitors Bureau at 1205 N. Lakeshore Drive.
To truly get into the historic experience, the best way to explore this charming area is via a mule drawn carriage ride. J&R Carriages offers a leisurely paced tour of the Charpentier Historical District. accompanied by an entertaining and well informed guide. The slow pace of the carriage along the Live Oak tree shaded streets allows riders the perfect intimate and up close view of all historic homes and buildings. The trees, which are every bit as spectacular as the houses, were planted by school children in a 1900 Arbor Day celebration.
While visiting the Charpentier Historic District be sure to allow time to stop in at the Central School Arts and Humanities Center, home of the Mardi Gras Museum Southern Living Magazine deemed it “the finest Mardi Gras Museum in the South. (See the Related Travel articles below for more details).
Another good way to get in touch with Southwest Louisiana history is with a visit to the Imperial Calcasieu Museum which houses an impressive and eclectic collection, especially considering everything was acquired by donation. Tableaux illustrating various aspects of early Southwest Louisiana life, share the space with tons of local artifacts and memorabilia including a pirate’s letter of mark that may or may not have belonged to Jean Lafitte. Bird lovers will also appreciate their large collection of authentic Audubon prints.
The museum’s most awe inspiring artifact can be found directly outside its back door. The expansive 300-year old Sallier Live Oak Tree dominates this space. Since the root systems of Live Oaks don’t go all that deep, it’s a miracle this natural wonder still stands in this hurricane prone region. But stand it does and a chance to commune with this “King of Trees” is plenty reason enough to pay the small but interesting Imperial Calcasieu Museum a visit.
Practicalities
For information about visiting Southwest Louisiana and for self guided maps to the Charpentier Historic District, contact the Lake Charles/Southwest Louisiana Convention and Visitors Bureau by visiting their website at www.VisitLakeCharles.com.
Make reservations for a J&R Carriage ride by calling 337-570-9909 or visit their website for more information at www.jandrcarriage.com.
The Imperial Calcasieu Museum is located at 204 West Sallier Street in Lake Charles, LA 70601. Phone 337-439-3793.
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