For years I had dreamed of backpacking the Grand Canyon and finally the day had come. My first few moments overlooking the south rim of the South Kaibab trail left me spellbound with anticipation. The cold Arizona wind whipping through the stands of juniper and pinion pine left my face numb from the cold; and I wondered if I really needed the sunscreen.

My guide book described the canyon in strictly mathematical terms. It was 22 km wide, 1.6 km deep, and 445 km long. These facts meant nothing until I spotted an airplane soaring below the rim that appeared to me as an insignificant bug against a towering backdrop of colour and light.

Standing at the trailhead, the inner gorge seemed barren, yet as I descended the landscape came alive with strange and exotic plant life. Amongst the 1400 species thriving within the canyon, I spotted the brilliant blooms of the prickly pear cactus, Indian paintbrush wildflowers, and the tall vertical stalk of the century plant.

The colour of the rock is also deceiving. The dramatic Redwall limestone layer which lies about halfway between rim and river is not one uniform colour. As I walked next to it, I could see shades of purple, as well as some brown and orange mixed with streaks of black.

In early morning and as the sun set, the panorama of light and shade cast from above made everything I gazed upon seem magical and alive. Colours and detail changed so quickly it was like watching a moving picture roll past my eyes.

Safety First

I did not reserve my backcountry permit ($20 US per permit plus $4 US per night, as of this writing) ahead of time and was pleasantly surprised I needed to only wait one day before entering the canyon. I would recommend, however, that you book ahead as the popular corridor trail campsites fill up quickly during the spring and autumn.

On average more than 400 hikers require emergency rescue each year. As I cautiously crept down the first few hundred meters of icy trail, I hoped I would not add my name to this list. The perils awaiting each intrepid walker ranges from heat stroke, dehydration, hyperthermia, hypothermia, physical injury, scorpion and of course snake bites.

Throughout my descent along the South Kaibab trail I repeatedly ran into people without adequate supplies of either water, food, or clothing. Near the Colorado river I met three hikers who walked down the Bright Angel trail without any extra gear or overnight reservations, expecting to find accommodation at Phantom Ranch. Another couple I met just after dusk also asked me where Phantom Ranch was located. They were dressed as if they were on their way to the local super market.

Pre-Trip Prep

In preparation of this trip I had purchased a 4 liter water bag and special instep ice crampons for the slippery sections near the rim. Without these two items, I would have endured a very treacherous journey instead of the purely enjoyable one I experienced.

The steep descent took me from the freezing temperatures of the south rim (2213 meters) to the balmy Sonoran climate (25 degrees C.) of the canyon floor (756 meters). After four relentless hours of knee jarring walking I was rewarded with a picturesque oasis at the confluence of Bright Angel creek and the Colorado river. Within minutes I was quietly relaxing along the sandy bank of the Colorado with an afternoon as open and free of commitments as the canyon is wide.

Bright Angel, The Canyon Floor & Indian Gardens

Bright Angel Campground is a lush paradise of cottonwoods, prickly pear cactus and century plants. The most ferocious creatures I encountered were the "snack & run" ground squirrels that patrol the rocks directly behind camp. Many campers have missed a meal due to these furry free-loaders.

The clear desert air provided a wonderful medium to view the many odd natural shapes and structures in the gorge. Buttes, terraces, fine grained cliffs and overhangs; there was so much for the senses to take in. I felt overwhelmed by this natural wonderland of textures and colours. The next morning I awoke early and made my way along the Bright Angel Trail before the sun was too high.

Canyon floor temperatures are much warmer than on the rim. It is the unwise hiker who challenges the canyon trails during the egg frying heat of mid-day. During the scorching hot summer months inner canyon temperatures routinely soar above 38 degrees C.

I reached Indian Gardens campground after only 2 hours of steady walking and was once again amazed at the lushness of the vegetation all around me. The area sits upon the Tonto Plateau adjacent to immense cliffs of red limestone. The area is also the terminus for walkers and mule riders visiting the inner sanctum of the canyon only for the day. Mule riders are instructed to give their beasts a gentle jab in the ribs if they wander to close to the edge of trail as the mules occasionally fall asleep.

A Condor Encounter

After dinner, with a light rain falling, I walked out to Plateau Point for a magnificent vertigo view of the river below. To my delight a herd of mule deer were grazing in the meadow below me. The plateau is a wide open terrace dotted with Santa Catalinas (purple coloured prickly pear cactus) and century plants. Rain clouds swirled overhead and let loose a refreshing downpour of much needed rain water. The wind threatened to knock me over as I clung to the steel railing on the edge of Tonto point. After a few reflective moments gazing upon the muddy waters of the mighty Colorado, I turned to walk back.

Within a few moments I was surprised by two immense black shapes shooting straight up from below the plateau. I could scarcely believe my luck, but I had just witnessed the first sighting of the rare California Condor along the Tonto plateau. These majestic birds (with an adult wing span of 3 meters) traced a beautiful arc in the sky and then disappeared below the rim. My first thought was 'Wow!' I can't believe my luck, quickly followed by the realization I was out of film.

Only 16 California Condors were released in the Canyon 2 years ago. Scientists hope to repopulate the inner gorge with these endangered majestic creatures.

I walked out the following day, having passed through 1.7 billion years of the earth's history as carved out of the limestone, sandstone, and shale of the canyon's walls. My walk from river to rim was the climatic equivalent of walking from Mexico to Canada, without the blisters.

The End of the Trail

A few kilometers below the south rim I chanced upon a wall of ancient pictographs (believed to be of Havasupai origin), excellently preserved. These ancient carvings are believed to be between 200 and 400 years old. I marveled at the simple artistry in the lines and curves, wondering about the meaning behind the drawings and the kind of life the artist would have lead within this canyon kingdom.

By the time I reached the end of the trail on the south rim I was walking into an unexpected snow storm with horizontal sleet lashing my face and hands. I bent forward with my head down and eventually reached the top.

In three days I had witnessed 4 seasons, about 2 billion years of earth's history, rare wildlife, ancient artifacts, and all by simply walking a trail. I tried to recall what that fellow Ives said about the Grand Canyon. He must have meant some place else.

Be sure to also read:

Planning a Trip to the Grand Canyon

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