Be Sure to Also Read Galapagos Islands Part I

The fog draped view of Bartolome Island greeted us on Saturday morning. After a quick breakfast, we boarded the pangas and headed for the rocky shore.

Bartolome is home of Pinnacle Rock, an eroded tuff cone and one of the most photographed sites in the Galapagos. Much of this island resembles a lunarscape, complete with craters. The terrain is rocky and a monochromatic rust color, the desolate landscape consisting of lava formations - splatter cones and lava tubes.

Geological History Comes To Life

The highlight of the morning's jaunt to Bartolome was the summit of a once active volcano, which offered a breathtaking panoramic view of Sullivan Bay. From this vista we could view both sides of the island, the craggy shore below with it's volcanic craters quickly filling with the incoming tide and the nearby Santiago Island. The thirty minute climb to this spectacular view consisted of a seemingly unending path of wooden stairs. This was the only really physically challenging part of the trip, and guides were patient about letting people go at their own pace. However, if you have physical limitations that prevent you from climbing stairs, you might want to sit this part out.

The islands were formed over ten million years ago by raging volcanoes. On Bartolome Island one can really get a feel for geological history that is still in the making (there have been eruptions within the last ten years). The rocks on Bartolome made it easy to see the various layers and formations and our guide filled in the rest, making the evolution of the islands come to life in front of our eyes.

In Search Of Penguins

After a leisurely stroll back to the panga, we set out along the shores of Bartolome Island in search of a creature that many of us never realized existed in warm waters: The Galapagos Penguin. We were not disappointed. Perched on the black lava was the object of our search. Like other Galapagos animals, the penguin stood calmly watching as the panga came within six feet of shore for photo opportunities.

We spotted another penguin on our way to our afternoon snorkeling location. A bit shyer than the first, he jumped into the water for a swim. In the water the penguin could easily be mistaken for a duck, but we knew better.

As monochromatic as the terrain on Bartolome was, the underwater scene was much brighter. Colorful coral walls lined the cove and Marine Iguanas were once again plentiful.

Santiago Island

After lunch on the Corinthian, we boarded the pangas and set out for an extensive hike on Santiago Island. The remains of a now defunct fish drying enterprise greeted us but then gave way to the beauty of nature.

The black lava coated coastline was dotted with thousands of bright Sally Lightfoot Crabs. Multitudes of Marine Iguanas stared silently out to sea like statues. Fur Seals and Sea Lions darted in and out of the surf. Great Blue Herons perched on the rocks, observed our progress from above.

Although we didn't actually see any, Santiago is also the home of feral goats and wild pigs, which were introduced by man. There are other Galapagos Islands inhabited by these creatures as well as wild dogs. The non indigenous animals have wreaked havoc on the delicate eco-system and efforts are underway to eliminate their presence from the islands.

Swimming With Sea Lions

Following our hike, we again entered the water for some more snorkeling. A multitude of Sea Lions dotted the beach and leaped and played in the water, but we were surprised when it became apparent that they wanted to play with the snorkelers!

A young pup suddenly "whooshed" past my mask, mere inches in front of my face. I was startled, awe struck and just a little bit frightened. Soon this pup was joined by about six or eight others and I was joined by other snorkelers, anxious for a close encounter of their own.

Our guides explained that the sea lions merely wanted to play and that it was perfectly safe. The only time it would be necessary to get out of the water was if the mother sea lion started barking. That would be a warning that she was getting concerned about her children. That event never happened, and humans and sea lions happily played together until it was time to leave. As we reluctantly trudged on to the beach, our friends followed, as if to say "don't leave, come back, come back."

Santa Fe Island

The following morning we set out for the desert-like Santa Fe Island. The beach at Santa Fe was full of more Sea Lions than we had ever dreamed imaginable in one place, and it had the aroma to prove it!.

As the panga approached, they swam out to greet us and kept pace with the small boat, arching gracefully in and out of the water.

Santa Fe Island is home of the Santa Fe Land Iguana. Much different than their marine cousins, the creatures' sandy color almost blended in to the dry soil. As we walked through a forest of giant Optunia Cactus, we saw several of the large Land Iguanas nestled among the rocks and desert plants. Like most animals here, the Land Iguanas too, seemed more than willing to sit still and pose for photographs.

After hiking Santa Fe, we headed back to the Corinthian to pick up our snorkeling equipment for one last swim. Santa Fe's rocky coast was home to more Sea Lions who seemed happy to have new playmates in the water. We also swam with some large Sea Turtles, their graceful underwater movement resembling flying.

Santa Cruz Island & the Galapagos Tortoises

After lunch we made our way to Santa Cruz Island, home of the Charles Darwin Research Center and the Galapagos National Park Headquarters.

The Research Center is the headquarters for conservation and research efforts, and the only chance to see the famous Galapagos Tortoises. The tortoises were dangerously close to extinction (in fact that unfortunately was the fate of several species), but the research center has a hatchery and breeding program for these amazing creatures.

The efforts here are saving several races of tortoises and re-introducing them back into the wild. This was brought painfully to life by "Lonesome George" (Solitario Jorge). George, a giant tortoise, is the last of his species. An exact DNA match was found between George and a female of another species, but unfortunately, mating did not occur. It's believed that seventy five year old George is past his breeding years.

As sad as it to realize that Lonesome George is the last of his race, it is encouraging to see the many other tortoises that have been saved. Visitors are able to see the hatchery and breeding grounds and stroll among the gentle giants.

There are many other exhibits at the Darwin Station which tell the history of the islands, their plants and animals and the efforts being taken to maintain their natural beauty.

A short walk from the research center is the small seaside town of Puerto Ayora (population 8,000), which is a good place to have lunch or a snack, send postcards and buy souvenirs. There are tons of the obligatory vacation T-shirts to choose from.

The following morning, we set sail for San Cristobal Island, where we had a short while to visit the small town there before leaving for our flight back to Guayaquil. There were more islands to see, but time didn't permit it this trip.

Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city, is a bustling metropolis. This is a great place to shop for souvenirs and prices (by U.S. standards) are very cheap. If you have time, go to the Mercado, a large collection of vendor's stalls selling everything from native crafts, leather goods, and alpaca sweaters to jewelry. Even if you don't have time to visit the Mercado the prices at the hotel gift shops are still very reasonable.

After a terrific seafood dinner in town with our new frind Abdul, a candy importer from Kuwait who we met on the Corinthian, and a good night's sleep, we boarded our plane for Miami. Our Galapagos adventure had come to end for now, but we dreamed of returning someday to explore the rest of these exotic islands.

More on the Galapagos Islands:

• Galapagos Islands Part I -- The Trip Ecuador & Genovesa Island
• Practical Information for Planning your own Galapagos Island Adventure