ECUADOR - The Galapagos Islands. The mere name stirs up visions of giant tortoises, strange reptiles and exotic birds. The island's reputation is well deserved, for a visit is much like walking through a cageless zoo, where the animals are not aggressive nor shy.

A myriad of species co-habitate here, but only six mammals are native to the islands. This absence of large predators is what accounts for the other animal's lack of fear toward humans. Needless to say, the Galapagos Islands are paradise for photographers and bird watchers.

Bound for Quito & Guayaquil

Our journey began in the Miami airport where we boarded a Saeta Airlines jet bound for Quito, Ecuador. Videos of tranquil underwater scenes, and soothing new age music greeted travel weary passengers. Some very nice Chilean wines accompanied the inflight meals.

Upon arriving in Quito we were greeted by a Galapagos Network representative who picked up our luggage and brought us to the Hotel Sebastian, a very charming European style lodging.

After an early morning breakfast, the staff carted us back to the airport for our flight to Guayaquil, where we would board yet another plane, bound for San Cristobal, the capital and oldest settlement (population 4000) of the Galapagos Islands.

The staff was wonderful, taking care of everything, including transporting and checking our luggage. In the Quito airport we were pointed to the Ecuadorian National Parks office, where we paid the $80.00 Galapagos entrance fee.

Since the islands are an ecological reserve, under the jurisdiction of the parks system, the number of visitors allowed each year is strictly limited. Various government fees and taxes were collected at points along the trip (totaling about $180.00 per person, so be prepared). U.S. currency is accepted for these fees, as it is in most stores and restaurants in Quito, Guayaquil and the islands themselves.

Arrival in San Cristobal

San Cristobal's runway dead ends a few short feet from land's end, making for an exciting landing. After checking through immigration (yes, you will need your passport here, even though it is technically still part of Ecuador), we were bussed to the town's small harbor.

Brilliant turquoise water kissed San Cristobal's shoreline. Sea lions were abundant, either frolicking in the sea or basking on the sun baked shore. Several had invited themselves aboard small dinghies anchored in the harbor, where they settled in for an afternoon siesta.

The tourists were thrilled to already be seeing animals, but our guides assured us that it was only the beginning. (All visitors to the islands must be accompanied by guides, who go through extensive training and have to pass annual qualification exams.)

We soon boarded a small "panga" or dinghy, which whisked us to the MV Corinthian, a 195 foot ship with all the comforts of home. While passengers checked into cabins (which all had private baths and showers) the Corinthian motored to a remote, San Cristobal beach.

The site of the crystal blue water had us as excited as children on the first day of summer. We suited up, boarded the panga and embarked on our first snorkeling adventure of the trip.

Surprisingly, even though the islands are situated on the equator, the water was a bit cool, as was the night air temperature. For swimming, a light wet suit or Lycra suit adds comfort, although it is not a necessity. It is important to keep in mind, however, that the sun here is extremely strong, despite the misleading balmy weather. Sun screen is essential!

Swimming With Iguanas

As clear as the water appeared from the boat, visibility while snorkeling was only about twenty to thirty feet. There were a few colorful fish to be seen, but the most interesting part of this experience was swimming along side a marine iguana!

Although fierce looking, this endemic species are gentle vegetarians. Their movement was almost hypnotic as long black tails gently cut through the water like rudders. The iguanas don't swim all that quickly, so keeping pace with the creature was not difficult.

Back on the beach, a mother sea lion nursed her pup just a few feet in front of photographer's lenses. It was at this moment that we realized that even a rank amateur with nothing but a disposible camera, could still go home with awesome pictures of the trip.

All too soon it was time to return to the Corinthian for dinner and a slide presentation about the upcoming day's activities. These nightly talks served several purposes. First they got everyone excited about the next day, as if we weren't already. Our naturalist guides gave background information about the area and animals and opened the floor for questions. The talks also prepared us for what we needed to bring along. This varied depending on whether we would have a wet or dry landing, whether we would be swimming and snorkeling and how much hiking would be required.

After the talk, some passengers went happily off to bed, while others lounged on the upper deck chatting and watching the gorgeous full moon over the ocean. At about midnight, the motors started and we began a seven hour journey to Genovesa Island at the northeast portion of the Galapagos. Most nights were spent traveling. I was rocked to sleep with a gentle ocean scented breeze blowing through my open cabin window, and the sound of water rushing against the side of the moving boat.

Red Balloons on Genovesa Island

After breakfast we boarded the panga and headed for a wet landing at Darwin Bay, named, of course, for Charles Darwin whose experiences here lead to his formulating the Origin Of Species theory.

The site that greeted us was bizarre. At first glance it appeared the terrain was dotted with hundreds of scarlet balloons! At closer glance, we could see that the "balloons" were attached to the chests of giant black birds. Our guide explained that these were Great Frigate Birds, and we had the good fortune to be there during mating season. The males puff out their pouches in order to attract the attention of nearby females. Evidently, size does count, if you're a Frigate Bird.

Another common site were male frigate birds, chests protrudeding, wings spread, shaking spastically throughout their body. Now, I'm not a female Frigate Bird, but the site was impressive nonetheless.

Also prevalent on Genovesa Island were Masked and Red Footed Boobies. The exquisite faces of these sea birds reminded me of the make-up of the Chinese Opera. Brilliant colors rim the eyes of the birds who also sport bright red webbed feet. Many were nesting and incubating eggs, mere inches from the hiking trail. Our guide handed a twig to a Red Footed Booby, who clucked in appreciation before calmly adding it to her nest. Although official policy says visitors should remain at least four feet away from animals, this was often impossible as they often lounged right on the trails.

We progressed along the Darwin Trail, stopping frequently for the fantastic photo opportunities. Cathy, our guide, was literally a walking encyclopedia of knowledge about the islands. She was always able to answer any questions without a moment's hesitation and she was skilled at spotting sites and animals that our untrained eyes would have otherwise missed like the Galapagos Sharks swimming along the shoreline which she spotted from overhead on the high cliff trails.

Along the way we passed tide pools dotted by bright orange Sally Lightfoot Crabs. I had previously believed crustaceans only achieved this hue after being cooked, but then, things are different in the Galapagos. The crabs were to become a common site, decorating the otherwise rocky volcanic coastlines.

After the hike, we made our way back to the coral beach for more snorkeling. A few marine iguanas graced the rocks, and small but colorful lava lizards basked in the sunshine. Several sea lions lounged about, but didn't pay us much attention.

As we lunched, the Corinthian made it's way to another part of Genovesa Island -- Prince Phillips Steps.

The panga took us along the rocky coastline where Fur Seals peered out from the rocks and Blue Herons stared down at us with the posture and expressions of grumpy old men.

The landing here is rocky, but dry. The steps make it possible to climb the steep rock wall to several hiking trails and a large open nesting area for Masked Boobies and Great Frigate Birds.

Boxing Boobies!

On this hike we witnessed a couple of young Masked Boobies aggressively fighting, one's beak shoved all the way down the throat of the other. Cathy explained to us that this is quite rare. Red Footed Boobies, the only web footed bird capable of perching, calmly observed us and the squablling youngsters from the branches of Dwarfed Palso Santo Trees.

Although we searched in earnest, we were never able to spot the well camouflaged Short Eared Owl, one of the few types that are not nocturna. We did, however, see many Storm Petrels, which are their favorite meal.

Speaking of meals, after a full day of swimming, hiking and sightseeing, it was time to head back to the Corinthian for dinner. We learned that next day would take us southwest to Santiago and Bartolome Islands, where many new adventures awaited us.

More on the Galapagos Islands:

• Galapagos Islands Part II -- Santiago & Bartolome Islands
• Practical Information for Planning your own Galapagos Island Adventure